MorganM

The coil is wired up fine (yellow and blue on + and black and white on - ) Ill check the starter main + lead there caboobaroo. I just put in another starter so thats a possibility. Thank you.

I use brake cleaner to really hit the nasty stuff. Then I come back with gear oil and steel wool for aluminum parts or gear oil and a rag for all palstic and rubber. Keeps your engine bay shiney for weeks! Results may verry depending on the amount of dirt you like to drive in

Hmmm I didnt know the lines would flex that much. Seeing how they already run soft lines I didnt think it was much of an issue but then again they never run more then 6"s of it at a time. Right'o Qman, I would use the proper soft line for this application. Flaring is a bit of a new one for me. I have a friend at work that's done it. Maybe he'll show me with his double flare tool and I'll practice it up first. I dont want to cut corners but I also dont want to spend weeks on this. So it sounds like I should re-run some hardline from the cabin as far as I can before switching to softlines. Then run soft l ine to the drums. Thanks guys.

I need to run new brake lines from the cabin to my rear drums. Right now the hardlines are cut in the cabin and pinched off right under the rear bench seat. What are the main issues with running soft lines from the cabin directly to each corrisponding rear drum? Now I know it wont have the fancy braking action where opposite, opposing sides brake but this isnt gonna be a daily driver and I doubt I'll hit over 55 MPH Also what kind of double flare tool do I need for the hardlines? Anyone know a cheap one ? Or one worth its cost? I would really not like to run OEM lines. I thought it was very annoying that the hardlines run between the rear main crossmember and the body (which is RIGHT where BOTH sides broke!!!) I also dont wanna fumble around with bending hardlines to fit in how I want them. Anyway suggestions would be great Thanks!

Herm last time I wired up my coil backwards this didnt happen. I'll check it for sure however.

duct tape might work. but duct tape and greese dont get along well I'm sure it would get you home hehe.

Well I wired up my dual electric fans on this legacy radiator I'm running in my '88 GL wagon. And I started the car for just like 2 seconds, literaly. I turned her over, she started, plopped twice and I turned it off. THen I saw the smoke! I traced it quickly to the coil / fusable link area. Then I opend the lid to the fusable link box and smoke came out from under the lid! None of them looked toasted but they could be burnt up inside. Noticed no other electrical damage. What circut do these links protect? What did I mess up? Only thing I've done to the ignition system is throw in an Accell Super Stock coil I had laying around... could it be too powerful? Only other electrical mod I've done is the dual fans and thats all wired seperatly from other systems. Directly off the battery to my relay, switch and fans. Ideas? Thx Oh another note. None of this happens with the ignition on and running the fans. It only happend when I actually started the car. Ive since turned on the power and played with my fans with no smoke action.

Shrink wrap! I love it How tight/loose did you wrap it around the actual CV? I would think if it was tight the CV might grab it and chew it up! Sounds like it held up for you however.

Body work and painting a car yourself is a huge project. No less involved or expensive then rebuilding an engine, transmission or drivetrain. I have 100+ hours in prepwork (sanding, priming, sanding, washing, and taping) and about 6 hours of actual spray time on my old '88 GL wagon. I dont want to discourage you I just want you to know its a project, not a weekend warrior battle While you can do it ine a day with some rattle bombs and a case of beer I dont think you would be happy with the results

That's a pretty neat... minivan :-\

.COM I think the kit is only for EA81s going from 4speeds to 5speeds. Where as you have an EA82t going from auto to manual. I think your biggest headache will be the pedal assembly. It does "bolt in" but you will have to run all the cables I know some here have done this swap however and hopefully they can shed light on this.

So by removing this thing and running lines directly to the rear drums I'll have my braking split 50/50 f/r ?

Sounds like its time to lower the bumpers

Ive seen shatterd rotors on a friends car. It didnt look like anythying I wanted to experience...

I thought the main problem with not running a thermostat is that the engine cooling system doesnt "cycle" with out the thermostat. By cycle I mean the thermostat is shut, coolant heats upto thermostats temp, thermostat opens and hot coolant is expelled to the radiator and cooler coolant is cycled into the engine. When the temp lowers from the cooler coolant the thermostat then closes again and the hot coolant is allowed to cool off in the radiator. If it does not cycle it is prone to "heat soak" where it just keeps getting hotter and hotter with out a chance to really cool off untill she boils. Is this way off? Just a theory?

My front brakes do it every time If I leave her sit over a week with the E brake on they are froze. I usally just undo the E brake, grab the Thule Rack and work them loose. Few good shoves to and fro bust them free. Even after they had been froze up for months!

so how does this rear slave cylinder in the braking system play into this? I need to completly rerun brake lines from the rear seats to the rear drums. I removed this slave cylinder mistaking it for the hill holder Any problems with just running lines directly from the lines under the rear seats to the drums?

It's gonna be a funny looking minivan. I can tell already

Sounds like you shouldnt have much trouble then

What I've done in this case is gone to a junkyard and looked at how ti all goes. Took a few trips but I got it all. This was for an SPFI. Just one idea. Hopefully someone will post some good pictures. If all else fails its time to decipher those aggrivating diagrams

Another tough obsticale to your own custom lift is maintaining proper camber front and rear. Extending the steering shaft doenst look very easy either. I agree with the statments above. Unless you really know what your doing with custom fabrication you are going to be spending a lot of time and money with just trial and error before even getting a lift you wiould be happy and safe with.

WOW glad to hear you are ok. DId you have to dip into the bushes and unload your pants?! Now the roll bar post makes alot more sense!

Where did you mount this at? Pics?

Ok just got off the phone with skeet. SOunds like the shop is taking good care of him there. They found the base gasket for the carb was literaly falling apart. He said they were gonna fix it and charge him a fair price. I think he needs a nap though as he hasnt slept in 24 hours! Peace

hmmm I have "free" long distance here at work. I'll give him a call and maybe we can atleast think some things over.