MorganM

It all makes sense now... only a freak'n HEROIN ADDICT would steal an old Subaru! :madder:

This is how I always check them and it does work. Any car that had a good Alt. would keep on ideling when the battery was dissconected. Prolly not the best/smartest way but it beats pulling the Alt, dragging it to a shop and having it tested only to find out its OK

red LEDs for the map lights. this makes it so your eyes dont have to adjust when you turn them on in the dark

Welp finally got some pics uploaded. The are really bad but you get the idea http://www.mnchopshop.org/features/suparoo/beforeafter.htm

86subaru: WOW what a deal! Such a nice guy throwing in shipping like that! haha

I think this is why ... http:// http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3160&highlight=banana+abuse

See if she likes this idea better. Strap yourself to the underbody with bungee cords and ask her to run around the yard in reverse Ok seriously though this is weird. Is the noise coming from the engine bay? mid section? rear end? You say it does it in gear or out of gear but ONLY while rolling backwards?

Just dont forget about it out there charging They like to boil and blow up if over charged. I got one boiling a few months ago. What a scary sound

Hood pins are great. My wife's buick century has a defective hood latch. I think its a factory defect because I see SOOOO many early 90's centuries with the same problem. After replacing it twice I said forget that noise and put in hood pins. Kinda funny seeing a young woman driving a 91 buick century with a kid in the back car seat and hood pins. :cool:

Ya that looks a little too fancy for my blood LOL

If you (or somebody you know) has long skinny dexterous fingers yo ucan slip them behind the latch, infront of the condenser just enough to flip the latch. Helps if the grill is off but I dont think its necessary. When you get your fingers behind the latch just follow where the cable goes and what its attached to. Pull on what it connects to and it should pop. Good luck!

The whole "Y pipe" is a manifold in the literal sense of the word. I usally break them up into two parts though. Headers and catalytic converter. They are one assembly however and it is a manifold. Only reason I consider them seperate parts is becuase I cut off the headers and make my own exhuast with them

Nice! Shot 4 and 5 are off the hook!

Battle_wagon: Have you tried completly reseting the ECU, pluging in the AA100 and then starting her? Just a thought

Hmmm been talking to some other people. A friend suggested going the "baseball bat trick". I guess you just wedge the bat between the vender and tire then "roll" them in. I would need to trim away the current fender "flares" for that to work cuz if I did it now they would roll OUT. That would look pretty... horrible. Anyone else tried this? Another guy on #cars said rent a fender roller. Never heard of renting one. I spose I'll call around and see what the deal is on those. That sounds like a more intelligent idea to me but I'm all about the ghetto fab if thats what it comes to I just dont want it too like like a shark took a bite out of my fenders LOL Peace

Easier to rebuild? Sure! You just swap in a manual

Must be Navy specific ones Never heard those too! Clue me in and I'll be happy to spread them through the Reserve

SUPER easy and I can get you one for WAY less then $250 Email me if you want. MorganM@mnchopshop.org Thanks! BTW I love that name! Funny stuff

Im about ready fire up the engine and then its fender triming time. I'd like to roll the sheet metal where I trim so that I dont risk slicing my tires when I stuff them up into the wells. I have access to a sawzall and an arsanal of hammers. Any other tools I should get that day? What are some tips and tricks for doing some clean rolls? It doesnt have to look that good but I also dont want it to look like total mess. Any other good ideas about making clearance for these 30"s ? Thanks!

A key factor in the cost is shipping! That thing isnt light Get it weighed and then you can use http://www.usps.com or http://www.ups.com to get some estimates for people. Hopefully someone local will want it and you wont have to go through that.

Thanks syphon. That's bad news! I was hoping to hear of a keen trail fix for flats but it sounds like the best fix is a full size spare! I know a punch / ream and plugs are good to have but that doesnt always work

K.I.T. ? Thats a new one for me! Working for the Army Reserve I thought I'd heard them ALL :-p Great post by the way electric. Can tell you've done your home work on the air suspension!

Hey glad to have you aboard Your legacy question is prolly more directed to the New Generation forum. Not that somebody cant help you here but there is a larger audiance to your question. I would also suggest posting a For Sale (FS) message in the Marketplace for your brush guard. I"m sure it will sell Hope to see you around the USMB!

Dennis: It's so you can have the brakes "lock" and have your foot holding in the clutch and the other foot over the gas ready to go. That way you dont roll back. Kinda a nice thing but really not neccessary for anyone experienced with a manual transmission. ----- So the hill holder is under the hood?? I thought it was in the rear with that mess of brake lines. What is that funny looking thing with 4 lines going to it in the rear then? Just a porportioning valve for the rear? Is it REALLY needed? Thx

If you arent going to do everything moosens suggested I would at least get the valves reseated. Shouldnt need any fancy grinds. Get the heads tested too. Shouldnt be more then $100 for both jobs on both heads at a machine shop. You are right though it ads up fast at the machine shop I spent $1600 on my EA82 when she was rebuilt. Biggest expense was a new head and labor.