MorganM

Do you happen to use a Cisco 675 DSL router?

Really what Arch is trying to get at here; is that its all theoretical BS untill someone actually does it on a Subaru and proves its not BS. We can debate it into infinity and that's why its theory; not fact. Copying, pasting, typing, and hyperlinking does not prove it works on this application, yes it can highly support the theory, but it does not prove it. On the flip side here nobody has really proven it won't work on a Subaru; again becuase nobody has done it and proved it doesn't work. Doing it and driving it around is proving it; not talking about how we think it can/can't work. So we get down to the real question of who's got the time, money, and know how to actually prove it one way or the other? It goes way beyond putting a turbo on an ER27. Just getting the ER27 into a Brat and getting it solid enough to drive thousands of miles is a major acomplishment. Now turboing or twin turboing that engine is a nother huge task. Then we get into the issue of a drive train that can actually put that power to the wheels and withstand the abuse. Please let this thread slip off into the sun set like every other 'what if' thread on turbo'n or TT'n an ER27 in an EA81. Very few ppl have stuffed an ER27 into an EA81 platform; of which is a major acomplishment itself. Once you are one of those very few individuals then you are on the road to having a turbo ER27 in an EA81 platform. Debating simentacs on the USMB won't get anyone there.

I thought you were talking about the castle nut. Never botherd messing around with drums; always swaped to rear discs.

I totally agree that idealy one should have a toy vehicle if they really plan on extensive modifications and real offroading. However they said thats not a feasible solution. I honestly know where they are coming from. I had 5 cars at one time and lived in an apt. It was hell always playing musical parking spots with everyone in the area. Then when the snow flies; you have to find parking spots that you wont get towed from, that arent already taken, and are within a reasonable walking distance. Usually that all happens early in the monring before work becuase it snowed all night! Now compound the factor of your stupid facility manager saying everyone hast to be out of the parking lot by 9 AM so they can plow it.... but the snow emergancy doesnt end untill 11AM... It really is a huge hassel having multiple cars with no personal, designated, parking.

That's just it; they arent marketing it for 'off road capability'.

I had saved these a long time ago but have since lost them. Thanks for the repost! Just downloaded them again and I'll be using them tongiht!

I torqued mine down to 'tight as hizzell' Seriously though I didnt use a torque wrench. Just used the impact gun at about 90 psi. Hopefully someone will reply with actual torq spec but if not you'll make due.

Pull the air cleaner off and move some crap out of the way to see it more clearly. Wild guess here.... choke for the carb?

IT HAS CUP HOLDERS! Now maybe Car and Driver magazine can finally have something real to point out

I'll tripple check IAC plug and wires. I've checked them before but I'm kinda blind (hence the grounding out of the headlight bulbs! LOL) I have a spare TPS to swap on. However they are adjusted properly to the throttle plate; check? How can I swap one on properly? The one on my Legacy had mark of wihte paint from the factory that they used to line it up. Should I just mimic that?

Volts meter in the dash sits a hair above 12 volts at idle and goes upto about 14volts above idle. It to bounces in perfect time with the turn signal.... practicly everything eletrcial in the vehicle does! We might be onto something now with the TPS. The problem has just gotten worse the last time I was out. The cold idle no longer works... I start it up for the first time that day and it just goes down to idle now. Used to shoot upto about 2000 RPM and hold till it warmed up. Now it just sits at idle or sometimes it will rev up then come back down. The idle has got worse now also; darn near have to keep my foot in it at all times to keep it running. That's why I really started digging around for a solution. It was tolerable before but now it's worse

plastic can with a bunch of vacume hoses coming to it and a hole in the bottom.

Yeah I'd have to run to the stealership or something to get voltage and resistance specifications to check against. It idles at 800 RPM (+/- 100 RPM) like it should. Untill it missfires of course then it drops and comes back up. Miss fire can be as bad as two cylinders in a row. Sounds fine above idle; sometimes cuts out or bogs down when its cold but at full op temp it seems to run fine above idle. So at idle I turn on my headlights and the idle drops say another 100 RPM. Now turn on the fan with my switch in cabin and it gets worse. Turn on a turn signal and every time the signal flahses RPMs drop more... in perfect time with the turn signal... hell I can even hear my fuel pump osilate speed in perfect time with the turn signal. It has been suggested to me that my idle is just too low. Well I can't really turn up the idle on SPFI. I can but the computer will eventually compenstate for my adjustments at the throttle stop screw. I belive turning up the idle would only mask the problem; not solve it. Yes spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor are new or in good shape and my fuel filter is replaced in the last 20,000 miles

How is Project NO BS coming along?

number 1 looks like a purge selinoid for EGR system. does it have a vacume tube that goes over to your charcoal canister?

OKay so I should do resistance testing first and if it checks out then do voltage drop testing? Tested battery cables at a pretty minimal load. Mostly did it just to test out what I had read in that webpage. I don't really suspect any of my main battery cables ( + or - ) as I've repalced them both recently with good, clean contacts. What you suspected is exactly how I burn out those fuses Again I didnt really suspect anything wrong with the headlights I just wannted to apply what I had read to a non-critical circut. So to avoid disaster when testing sensors I just need to NOT suppry voltage to the ground terminal; check? Can you tell I'm a super newb with this here fancy wal-mart digital multimeter? I've done resistance testing before on my EJ22 when I was having problems with it and found a bad fuel injector. However I dont have OEM spec values for my EA82 to check against for things like the TPS, IAC, MAF, coolant temp sensor, etc etc etc. I just want it to not stall on me I must find the culprit!

I'm tryign to track down the source of my 88 GL's weak idle and missfire. Pretty sure it's an electrical issue of some sort. I've checked every mechanical problem I can think of. I read this page here http://users.cnnw.net/~fourty/voltdroptest.htm and thought I understood how to do it. I tried doing it right at the battery on my main battery cables and came up with -0.00 vdc at all resistance points. So that's a good thing right; no voltage drops found? One thing they dont explain is what to set your digital multimeter too; I set mine to the 20 VDC setting. Then I clicked on the real life example of checking the head lamp circut. Big problem; this little section was obviously NOT designed for Subaru headlights! There are 3 connectors to a single headlight bulb on my Subaru; not two like in teh example. I ended up burning out the fuses for my headlights! Basicly what I want to do is voltage drop tests on all critical sensors BUT I don't wanna fry anything like I did on my headlight fuses! I think it's a problem with my IAC or TPS but I'm not sure. The idle is just very weak, there's a bad missfire at idle, it gets WAY worse the more draw I put on the electrical system... say I kick on a turn signal, headlights, or fan and I usually stall the engine at idle!

That is a sweet buggy design.

This thread is shifting from 'what if' status to 'absurd' :-p

Just saw the banner on Ozified.com also. Guess they are 'reorgenizing' and you can't order a lift fromt hem PKdavis get's on here from time to time; shoot him a PM and ask when they will be available again I guess. Don't even bother with wiring a switch to the FWD override. You'll never use it like that. If you get stuck you get stuck and the people you are with help you get out These things are so light that if you were spinning one or two tires off the ground we could all get on that corner and bring it down or all push on your car and get you over the obsticle Worst case you get winched through and thats cool too. Last time my open diffs were letting me down (front left and rear right didnt have enough traction) I just kept picking a different line untill I made it. The time's I've been STUCK no amount of brake jokeying would have got me out Over there at Gilbert OHV park there are LOTS of fun trails that your 3" lifted wagon could go down with little worries about getting stuck. Almost all major obsticles have a by-pass trail. There's clear signs notifying you of trail difficulty before you even get on it. Really you only get stuck up there if you break something or you are pushing your limits

So is anyone who thinks its a good idea actually going to do it and report back on how much more mud and rocks they cleared with it?

I'm not using aluminum no matter what; for the simple fact that we cant weld on it with arch's welder. Let's see some more real steel skid plates. Thanks

Liftkits dont destroy wheel bearings

Two real easy solutions to the intake. Stock air box. I run one minus the plastic drain trap in the inner fender; removed that. It just gets full of gravel and mud. Rotate intake snorkel you have on there 90 degrees clockwise. So it sits where your spare was. Put a splash guard up and around to protect it from... splashes

Looks like you had fun splash'n around out there.