NoahDL88

I've never broken a rear axle yet, and i've been running welded for a while now. Broke a front, cause i had it at the lock, and got wheel hop in the rain, and the rear caused a fair bit of drag. But its ok, it was the motivation i needed for the 5 lug swap.

ARGH !!

Now, so i'm 100%, thats the 5MT right? not the auto tranny? (Impreza)

Shhh, this is a secret, the men in the black coats will come for you tonight :cool: I also want to know, i'll be putting on Impreza bits on the wagon soon, and will need an e-brake.

I think the bigger brakes are more important for the offroaders, the added rotational mass of swampers makes any EA series with stock brakes downright dangerous

Don't know about the fuse, will find out tomorrow he's got some crummy summer tires that came with the car, which could easily be the problem. Will a clutch pack AWD duty "C" bit work from a 92 legacy, and has anyone replaced this? is it an easy job, or should we just start looking for a new tranny?

Yeah, i got "dibs" on the cannonball hatch, got the hatch in the driveway, and the turbo at the shop, Just need a turbo tranny, which i'll be picking up from a place in tacoma later this month. Thanks for the vinyl tex.

I have a friend that just bought a 95 Legacy AWD, and he had to put chains on it to get out of his driveway, which is unacceptable, with AWD he should have had absolutely no problems. Can the duty C solenoid get stuck in the "2wd" position? cause thats what were thinking, at least after we've ruled out the option of the FWD fuse being in.

Actually, it doesnt change on its molecular level, it just expands and contracts, only extreem hot and cold temperatures will change the arrangement of the molecules making it either harder or more maleable. Anyway, i'm still for the wheel bearings if the diff isn't empty.

I concur.

Philbin, a place in oregon will recurve for i believe around 40-60 bucks, provided your disty can be used. I thought i had their phone number, but it turns out i don't

Next time we go yarding for parts, i'll help you get the resistor out of the blower motor, to see if thats what it is. There cheap, and they blow out pretty regularly anyway, so if its not it at least we'll have a spare. We need to go anyway, i need rust free EA-81 bits, and i'm sure i need more parts than i can remember.

Congrats, i've always taken pictures at 200k everyone else off the board doesn't get it, i'm glad i'm not the only one.

25 pounds here, 30 pounds there, and suddenly you've saved enough weight to bring your girlfriend along. 400 seems a bit steep for an accessory, but i guess coupled with perhaps an EJ22T it would certainly be worth it, along with other weight savings perhaps.

There was an article in 4 wheeler a couple of years back, about a roadie for AC/DC. I digress, anyway he had a huge 4 door extended bed chevy 3/4 ton dually offroader, that did pretty well (at least the pictures would lead you to believe) It was a southwest, dune runner which may be why it worked well, and wouldn't work well in the northwest. I'd say go for it, at least in the rear, i'd say not so much in the front, but it would be cool to see anyway.

Brings up a good point, check all your electrical connections to make sure that they are clean and dry.

Check your air filter, if its wet, your engine is probably too. ( the inside, not the ok side ) If it still runs, do a compression check. if there not even you may have bent a rod.

any high-po place should carry them, i know Rallitek has them, i got a set of Goodrich from a guy in florida, i havn't gotten the system blead yet, so i can't tell you how well they work but i've only heard good things about them. If you're going to taller struts, you should go with the longer lines, any Subaru set will do, provided that you already have rear disc brakes. <-- if you're also doing the rear

From your symptoms all i can think of is a loose axle nut, or bad wheel bearings. Do the wheels move side to side?

you might try the wanted forum:cool:

I had that problem when i went from the DL to the GL multifunction switch you might try a GL one to rule out that part of the equation.

depending on your emissions laws, a webber 32/36 DGEV carburettor is a good place to start, I don't know if your brumby's came with the EA-71 but an EA-81 is a direct bolt in if you have the smaller motor. Exhaust will help the motor breath well, however i wouldn't go bigger than 1 7/8 inch after the two pipes come together or you'll loose velocity and power. if you're careful you can increase the timing by a few degrees, but you'll have to be careful to avoid detonation. other than that you'll have to start spending real money.

If it only happens when you use the brakes, its brake related. I'd also suggest checking on the other side brakes if you haven't yet. Also try to shake each wheel with them off the ground, if they move your rear bearings are toast, happened to me twice. also you should check your front pads and rotors, as if you have a shake from the steering wheel your front rotors could be warped as well.

A lightened flywheel does not loose torque, it looses inertia:rolleyes:

The oil impregnated air filters are hell on your MAF, It won't burn out immidiately, but with time you're gonna have to replace it, maybe after a year or so. Also, if they really increased fuel economy, the OEM's would use them standard. Your butt dyno won't be able to tell a difference, it may be louder, but won't be faster.