Flowmastered87GL

I was talking to Jess earlier... my guess is hydrolocking too. My GL did that when it had a bad head gasket. So ya try pulling the plugs. Shouldnt be too bad to yank it, and reseal it.

I believe the power light is something related to the transmission. I think its supposed to come on when you press the gas hard and the tranny goes into power mode (higher shift points) Could be possible that something with the transmission is bad causing the car not to realize its in park or neutral and therefore locking out the starter for safety. The new gen forum may know more about this car. A moderator will probably end up moving this...

Either could have blown the head gasket on that side from the head not being torqued right. Maybe they reused the intake gaskets and one of them blew. Maybe they reused the hoses and one of them blew. There are alot of variables here. You may want to get a pressure tester that attaches to the radiator where the cap goes, and pressurize the system and listen for the hissing of the leak (car turned off) and then see if you can see it once you know where to look based on sound.

Hmmm interesting. Is that the layout that they had for the school with the long straight on the back? If you look you can kind of see courses from rallycrosses past still kind of engrained in the grass.

WHen I was at the friciton specialists they grabbed another pressure plate from their stock, looked exactly like the peraut one that I had, just a darker shade of silver. For now I am working on my street brat primariliy, but I'm gonna bug Richie for a used setup from another brat to see what happens. (Poor Richie, I wont leave him alone) I definitely plan to try another complete used clutch setup next before yanking the tranny since it only takes me like 45 minutes to yank and install the engine myself whereas a tranny would take a little longer myself... especially with my tall but small jack. (not good for large items)

the knocking maybe could be a CV joint? if mud or crud got in there maybe its making it get closer to failing?

Well things just got a little less hopeful. I met with the flywheel shop today AND with a friction specialist and the verdict is, my flywheel is within its correct tolerance. Its depth is .906 inches. And the acceptable range they said is like .875 to something else... When you set the pressure plate onto the disk sitting in the flywheel the plate outside of the plate (where the bolts bolt it down) does not touch the flywheel, it stands off like 1/8 inch or so, it only touches once you bolt it down. At this point its said my clutch is just fine... So.... its looking like maybe something inside the tranny did go bad maybe? Jerry, if you still have that 4 speed DR, I may want it unless I can find one locally thats cheaper than gas to get out there. At this point the next idea is to get an 83-84 4 speed DR and a normal big clutch setup and install that. Dont know what else to try at this point.

Funny, I was thinking of an EV brat too... I dont have the $$ either though. I deliver pizza though and that would be GREAT! Hell I could even charge it at work for free

uhhhh Brian?? My name is Mike

Ya, everything EXCEPT the flywheel is new... and that has been resurfaced, but to what we belive to be the wrong specs.

I think it fit pretty good. Make sure the guages light so you can strike fear into the hondas :cool:

Heck no! I think its unsafe too... maybe sell it to someone on e-bay for a buck? Or throw it away?

I have a carbed radiator with tranny cooler lines on it. If you want you can BORROW it for a week to test fit. I need it back when I get my flywheel fixed for my brat though. I belive its a unit from 1800radiators.com or something.

Craig came over today to grab some parts and chat... we measured the failing clutch on my brat and came up with the following measurement of the "step" between the ring gear and the inner part (where the disk sits) of the flywheel. We got a measurement of (more or less) 0.9000 Inches. Does anyone know if its supposed to be this deep? Or should it be more like .8500 or less? more?? We couldnt turn the clutch with the plastic alignment tool, but it sure as hell isnt grabbing against the torque of my webered EA81! My Chiltons manual doesnt have specs for flywheel depth. And for those wondering... this is for a 4WD 82 brat. Its the tiny (commonly called 2WD clutch) NOT the big one that 83-84 Ea81's have.

I'll try and hunt em down Friday when wrenching in the garage then

If you are really worried.... REMOVE EM! With the money you get from selling them you can buy a really sweet momo wheel or something. Maybe put some guages or something in the passenger spot (if there is one of your car) Just be careful removing them... maybe even let a licensed shop do it (if they will touch it)

Just be aware of this... often times the low mile import engines still require attention. My 87 GL got one back at 215K (I installed it) and I am at almost 314K now. My oil pump seal went out shortly after getting the engine and the other seals werent perfect. The engine was great, but since it only had like 35000-60000 miles on it all its parts were probably original (and therefore due for its 60K service with timing belts and such) So a new engine is nice, but dont get cheap and not put good parts on the new engine. I still say just reseal the one you have. I have done head gaskets on two 88's my 87 and an 86 carbed and 86 turbo. All have been just fine with the reseal (including the turbo!) The 88's and the 86 were WELL over 200K on the original block and heads and had no ill effects from just resealing as opposed to replacing. All you need really is: 2 head gaskets 2 cam tower o-rings oil pan gasket valve cover gaskets oil pump gasket water pump and gasket (only like $30, its worth it) cam and main seals are recommended, but not absolutely essential, same with the oil pan and valve covers I guess, but its worth the $50 now to avoid $400 later. Stuff like plugs and wires and cap and rotor dont need to be touched at all. Exhaust gaskets can be reused, I recommend replacing the intake gaskets. PCV valve can be left, air filter can be left. (basically all the external stuff can be left alone) Just my thoughts.

Hmmm not that I am aware of, just DL, GL and RX I think. I think its kind of like, wagons and sedans got GL-10's and the 3dr's got RX (ya I know there are afew RX sedans)

Hmmm cut the bottom off the wheel and have it knight rider style All you would need then is a digidash from an 85-86 EA82 wired in and some red LED's up front

Now why would you want to go from 4 to 2?? From my understanding (well of EA82's anyway) the 4 light design is more desired for lighting reasons.

So.... you want the specs of the stock bolts? Let me check my parts bucket, I may still have all mine.

I know I could do it WAY cheaper than a dealer. If I had my excel files on this computer I could tell you what it would cost me to replace your head gaskets. Basically I would want to do timing belts at the same time (as I think its dumb to use old belts unless they are near new) Oil seals and stuff are nice, but if you are on a budget, leave em and just watch the dipstick. Water pump would be recommended as who knows WHY the gasket blew. I really want to say parts and labor would be around $500 or so, but dont quote me on that. At this time I have 2 brats in my garage that are mine so I dont have room, but if you are interested, shoot me a PM and we could talk about me wrenching on it in the future.

Glad someone rescued it... it looks pretty sharp for a $300 brat. You could polish it up and get quite a bit out of it (unless the other side is worse) Or keep it and have fun with it

I say try it! The only way to see if they really CAN handle it is for some pioneer to try it. Who knows... you may stumble on to something!

Yes.... but I didnt actually try it that way with starting up and running the car... just with a breaker bar on the tranny. It moved with a breaker bar. Funny thing is when I reseated the release fork and bearing the breaker bar made the car move again. then when I started it, it didnt move. Thats when I yanked the clutch and saw some wear on the outer edges... therefore a concave flywheel it looked like, so I had it machined on the inside and out. I probably should have measured it, but bolting it on to the engine it all felt really nice. I saw the splines on the pressure plate move in as I bolted it to the flywheel.