Flowmastered87GL

316,XXX on my 87 GL

Yes you COULD do it. Often people switch FROM digital, but hey get 2 wiring diagrams, change afew senders (oil pressure I know for sure has to be changed) and hack afew wires... it can be done. The easier method may just be to find a GL-10 with a bad engine or tranny and swap your running gear over to it. (thats how I'd do it personally)

I'm a fan of using a normal craftsman 1/2 in drive ratchet on it. Hit it up with some lube first, insert the socket, have it facing horizontal, but slightly low (with room to move up) then insert a floor jack under it... usually the plug will move. I used this tactic to replace the rear trailing arms on my GL without any air tools.

My 98 Impreza sedan 4EAT with RS wing, when I had it got 31 MPG highway and maybe 24 city? (never actually measured in city though) It got the 31 MPG going between Reno and Portland with 1 passenger and some luggage in the back at like 3000 + feet too. That and it hadnt really been driven in the past year (as it just had the rear of the body rebuilt from a crash)

The only time it was really hard was when I was moving out of the townhouse and I had a brat with a bad clutch, a u-haul AND a wagon, and another wagon!

If Richie cant make it I am by his shop enough that I could cart whatever it may be his way.

So... how are you gonna cart em both down? Have a friend drive one and you drive one? I live here locally and its hard enough for me to move cars around as it is.

Uhhh on the gen 2 brat, the rear slider opens from BOTH sides. Personally I love it. Roll down both the windows, pop up both the T-tops and slide the rear slider open (so the glass is in the center and you have air on both ends). You get a crazy amount of ventlation that way. But yes I HAVE seen a DL brat with a center opening window, not sure what it came from. Maybe a small datsun? Just dont write off your window til you open BOTH sides.

Hmmm interesting thought. I see it similar, but i think it depends on your travel. In your case if 18 inches was on the bump stops than I totally agree. But if your stops were at say 16 inches. You could have 6 inches of travel stock at 600 lbs (and still have 2 inches of travel left) OR you could have 6 inches of travel with cut springs and be on the bump stops and be against 600 lbs also. Am I understanding that right? So the answer is "it depends" Note I have a finance degree and NOT an engineering degree, but I love to test hypotheses.

Got screwed on a blue working EA82 cargo cover... out around $40

Hmmmm if the hard copy of my insurance card comes in by then... I may make an appearance in the street-brat

Ya I am pretty sure its the original axle from 1987 with 316,000 miles on it.

My rear brakes and rear wheel bearings are toast on my GL so I decided to convert the whole rear end to disk brakes (with a sway bar) While trying to remove the old parts the passenger rear CV would NOT let go of the stub in the hub. This was the hub with a REALLY bad bearing, the wheel had started to wobble! I have since removed the whole assembly and installed an extra CV in the car for now, but would prefer to use the old one if possible, or at the very least salvage it for a spare. The pin is removed for sure, I have hit it with PB blaster, pryed and pryed with a screwdriver and its still in its stock place (I could re-install the pin is how little its moved) Maybe rust has fused it together? Maybe heat from the failed bearings has warped parts making them fuse? Ideas? I'm thinking air hammer at Richie's shop

Hmmm look good and sturdy. Tested em on the trail yet?

Power... rallycross without it just seems like it would be harder as I generally palm the wheel during one and shift with the other. (or hold the car in gear)

Hmmm I had both of the tools out there, I just didnt use em together! I tried just pulling on the stud and I tried kind of prying on it, but not both at once... We'll see if I have time tomorrow to try to remove more. Those tires are on the ugly green brat for now.

Well the rear brakes on my 87 GL bit the dust so I am going to be driving the brat briefly. It has 2 studded tires on it still and until I can find a way to yank the studs out I had to put my Hakki's on it (dont want to leave em on there too long as they are my rally tires) I tried kind of yanking on the studs with vise grips but they just slipped off. So... these are kind of older 13" snow tires... how do I yank the studs? (most of em still have their tips) Do they pull out or unscrew? Or need some special tool?

Its activated by a timer or sorts... you are correct in assuming that the odometer triggered it. Funny... I've had my car for 100K and its never gone off... up to 316K and never had a light of any kind. Anyway under the drivers kick panel there are supposed to be like 3 connectors. Either 1 male and 2 female OR 2 male and 1 female. Basically I know one is green, the other is either blue or white, I forget which. Anyway basically make the connector swap partners If its green-green make it green-blue (or white). If its the other way, switch it TO green-green. Should get rid of your light

Some Gen 1 brats had just large round single headlights (1 on each side) not sure if they were the "DL" model or what, but I can get a picture of a white one with a high roll bar and pushbar if wanted. Hmmm historic forum, I've never had anything older than 82, time to get me a Gen 1

Everyone has their theory and here is mine. I had a 1986 GL wagon, Ed used to drive it before it sat for like 2 years. When I finally fired it up the carb was kind of gummed up from old gas and lack of useage. The car lacked power, and sometimes would totally die and not restart for 5 minutes. Taking off the air cleaner would help it start sooner. So, the carb COULD be on its way out. My solution was a good used carb from a fellow board member. I just swapped it out in like 1 hour. Just a theory though.

For reference... on my brothers new STi a set of tires cost him $1000 (about) So if those tires are decent, just the tires alone could be worth well over $700... plus the rims... thats like a $2000 value. And all this for 5 easy payments of $49.99 (sorry went into infomercial mode)

Since its 2WD, its just a GL 3dr.... not and RX. A turbo 2WD is pretty rare though. Dont see em too often.

Good deal, a running turbo for $300... thats really low miles too compared to my (non turbo) with 315.9K Does it have the body kit and stuff on it? It COULD be an "RX" which is a fairly sought after car.

If I recall my problem has always been the #2 cylinder. :-\

I gotta say.... 315,800 miles is not a bad run for an original driveshaft and u-joints thats probably never EVER been serviced in its life. Been off roading, banged over rocks, 4WD launched many MANY times, rallycrossed.... delivered pizza for 18+ months... Well today on the way to Snohomish, the GL started shaking really REALLY bad. We were on I-5 going north in the Olympia area. For those who dont know Mark / XSNRG lives there... so we limped along at 75 for a while til we got to his exit... kinda shaking a bit, but drivable at 75, but NO other speeds... Got off, shook like mad while slowing down to the stopsign. Limped it to Mark's house to see if he had a driveshaft or 5 speed DR we could toss in the car to maybe install when we got back to Portland (thought the car would survive the trip since it seemed ok at 75) No tranny, but he had one driveshaft. So I bought it. We decided to check under the car. What do we find? The rearmost U-joint that bolts to the rear diff was near ready to fall off! It was WAY WAY WAY off center (causing the crazy vibration) Pretty scary really, 10 more miles down the road and it may have blown up! Pictures will be coming soon... needless to say Mark changed it right there in the driveway for me... I OWE YOU BIG buddy! We made the trip without further incident! What I previously thought was my transfer case going out turned out to be just a toasted U-joint.... a heck of a lot simpler and cheaper than a tranny swap thats for sure!