Mike W

I have mine setup basically the same as Ken's, but with the addition of a t-fitting in the drivers side going up to a small air filter. I forget the whole reason for doing it that way (almost asleep now) but that's how Subaru had it stock. Seems like it needed to be able to suck in atmospheric air from that side under certain conditions? Anyone have a better explanation? Maybe I'll remember why I did it that way in the morning.

A nice dry place for that aux air filter is up behind the driver's side strut tower. Stays nice and dry up there. That's a good place for the fuel tank vent too and it can even share the same filter if you're creative. Might be worth pointing out that the idea is to keep the pcv system functioning the same as it did stock (as opposed to just venting both valve covers to the atmosphere or connecting both valve cover hoses to the aircleaner, as some guys have done.) Those must be official Subaru wire ties on that throttle return spring. Rally blue and yellow.

I have a dark green '93 LSi wagon that I bought about a year ago. Bone stock except for the 14" Modern wheels, Hella dual fog & driving lights mounted in the bumper and a skid plate borrowed from a EA81 car. The AT shifts great and works surprisingly well in slimy conditions. No real need for LSD, maybe if I spent more time on ice or offroad but it does pretty with the open. The air suspension was replaced a few years ago by the previous owner (at huge expense.) Yes it makes the ride a bit mushy but it'd suck to lose the extra inch and half of clearance it gives. I'd definitely rip off the front bumper without the air lift. The Mill Creek mud hole is accross the street from where I work and I love sneaking in there for a few grins on my lunch break. Couple weeks ago I pulled out a guy in a Toyota truck. He was on his lunch break too and needed to get back to work. He appreciated the yank, but man he hated getting resqued by a Subaru grocery getter.

The Introduction page of HTKYSA explains the history pretty well. Basically, in the 60's and 70's Larry Owens and two other guys operated an independant VW garage called the Grease Pit in Santa Fe. In 1969 John Muir started hanging around the garage saying he was writting a VW repair manual (How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive.) Eventually the book was published and was very successful and a subculture apparently developed where folks would hang out at the Grease Pit garage with Owens, Muir and the rest of them, fixing their VW's in the parking lot, socializing, etc. Years went by and thousands of hippys and non-hippys used the book to keep their VW's going down the road. Eventually Owens wrote the Subaru version of the book and it's still a good read today. I think he also wrote a Toyota truck book and possibly others too. Anyone know what is currently going on with Muir Publishing? Is Eve Muir still around and what about Larry Owens, is he still on the planet? Sure would be cool to get him to come to WCSS6 or at least fill us in on the history of his book (especially if I got it all wrong.)

I'll add Mazda's, Chevy Luv trucks, Toyotas, VWs, etc, etc. In otherwords, just about any import and lots of domestic vehicles too. There's usually tons of them on Ebay. Try searching for just the words "Weber" and "32/36". Happy hunting.

Rip out the glovebox and install a RV size woodstove in it's place. Chimney runs up the outside like a snorkle. Co-driver tends the fire. Sorry to be a wise-rump roast, but this concept actually crossed my mind last time I had a leaky heater core.

Hey have you guys ever seen one of these tools in a 32mm size? Now that I'm running a Legacy I wouldn't mind having both sizes in my tool box. Thanks.

Marking it's territory with some yellow snow?

I've got one in my box and have used it a couple times when I didn't plan on pulling an axle. A hammer is the most effective method and it doesn't work nearly as well as the big 3/4" breaker bar with cheater pipe. But it does the job in a pinch!

There really should be a gallery of Todd's car art. I try describing the stuff to people at work but I don't know if it exactly translates into words, you know like it needs to be seen in person to get the full effect. Very cool stuff is all I can say. I'd also really like to see his Subaru videos again. Loved that one where they were stalking the elusive spotted snow tigers or whatever that was. Freekin' hilarious twisted humour. Keep up the good work Todd!

How about air shocks instead. That way you could adjust the overload spring rate. Haven't tried it, just an idea. Shocks spec'ed for Toyota Landcruiser FJ60 are the correct length for a 3" lift. They do allow more downtravel in flexy situations so it's possible for the axles to hyper-extend out of the inboard joint. I only had that happen a couple of times though so not a big concern and can be remedied with the "Rguyver axle mod."

Looks very pretty and proper! Excellent work! And thanks for keeping up posted on progress!

Are ya'll sure the OEM is 1-7/8"? From what I've seen, stock pipes are mostly double wall and have ID's much smaller than you'd expect. Writting this stuff up in a FAQ or whatever would sure help reduce the topic coming up again and again.

Or a nice strong pin punch inserted in the hole in the flywheel through the timing hole. Just don't break it off or drop it into the bellhousing...that would suck.

My trial and error so far: On a stock EA81 I did 1-7/8" from the cat back and gained high end but lost low end torque. It was like having a fifth gear on the freeway and I didn't have to downshift climbing freeway hills where I used to. But from a dead stop, it didn't pull as hard until rpms got up to 2grand or so then it pulled great. Now on my my offroad car with stock EA81 block, big weber and intake plus hot coil, I did 2" from the cat back and felt a huge improvement at all rpms...it didn't seem to lose low end torque at all. They say the intake and carburation need to be matched and tuned to the exhaust so maybe that's what was going on. Then I installed a custom 2" from the head y-pipe I found at the junkyard. It was fairly well made, had almost equal length tubes and a decent merge. Well it sucks. I got a big loss of torque and overall horsepower. I blame that on losing the scavenging effect but I'm not giving up on it until I try rejetting the carb first since they say carbs often need retuning to match exhaust. Has anyone tried using a quick-mount restrictive tailpipe for better torque on the trail? You know like run free flowing exhaust on the highway and then cork it up a bit when you get to the trailhead. Doesn't the H6 outback have a restrictor gadget in the muffler to reduce flow at low rpms?

I work with an older and very hardcore crawler guy, and a few months ago he got some new Goodyears that he said just came on the market. I forget what these tires were called but he'd used them on some extreme stuff over by Rimrock and seemed to think they were the best tire he'd ever had. Guess I'll have to ask him what they're called and if he's still stoked about them.

Guess you weren't around so I left a voicemail. I put the new barb fitting on the 'stat housing almost where it meets the main part of the intake. So like if you are standing in front of the car looking at the engine, the new barb fitting is a couple inches rearward of where it was stock on the SPFI. I couldn't find the barb fitting at B'Lowes or the De-pot so I got it from either Aurora Plumbing or Doc Freemans. Doc Freeman's HAD the best selection I've ever seen of brass fittings and stuff like that, damn pitty they closed.

I removed the picture and link to their website because they restricted access. Must have been getting too much traffic. They probably installed the external cage in case they got run over by one of their buddies in a rock cralwer.

Hey I was surfing the rock crawling buggy stuff and came accross this cool action photo: Don't like how they treat Subarus? Click on the "Complaints" button. Wonder if they have any footage of Subarus in the videos they sell?

I believe he's installing the built EA-81 that he previously had in a Hatch and I think also in his silver Brat for a while. It was the higher reving, more aircraft style powerplant. Not sure what he's done to it now but you can bet it'll have serious nadz for a pushrod engine. I'm still envious of the Brat he's putting it in. Very sweet condition and he's keeping it nice and stock looking. Glad he got it since I couldn't go after it myself. Should be a show winner next summer and bet he'll be grinning huge every time he drives it.

As GD was saying, some Aussi's have made big rubber flaps to protect their boots from trail and rock damage. I myself have never ripped a healthy boot on rocks or logs but maybe I haven't tried hard enough. I guess I almost trashed an axle once but my mustache bars hit the log first. I bet flying rocks from gravel roads are the main reason for the OEM flaps. Here's the flap pics that are on http://www.subaclub.com./ (in the "tech" section.)

It looks real good and I do like blue wagons. Sure wish I'd kept the one I had for a short time. On the ladder, I was wondering if it was removable too, but my concern was about ripping it off when you go to squeeze between trees and stuff. Guess it's one of those finesse things knowing how wide your vehicle is. Anyhow, nice looking rig.

I thought Sean had it figured out and an electronic cure he could supply. Did that turn out to not be the case?

Hey you're sick dude! Wish you were my neighbor! Seriously though, that thing looks great and the web site was very functional even with my oldschool Netscape. Well executed on all accounts and thanks for documenting and sharing. Can't wait to see the EJ with dualrange stuff.

Geez I feel incredibly stupid that I asked if you'd put a turbo crossover pipe on to avoid breaking y-pipes. Serious brain flatulence going on that day. You'll have to really work to bust your exhaust with it way up there. Glad you pulled off that epic commute back to "work". Did your collegues get to hear about the adventure and what do they think of your Little Roo anyway?