GeneralDisorder

Uh.... seriously you can't even buy an oil pump for that engine anymore. As in you CANNOT buy one. There are no sources and Subaru has told us there isn't going to be EVER AGAIN. It's not a platform you want go seek out to buy. If you haven't plunked your hard earned cash down yet....go find a legacy that you can actually order parts for if you need them. EA82 = dead platform. GD

If you just replaced the TPS - where did you get it from? I just had an aftermarket TPS fail about a month after install on an EVO build. Got the dealer part and no issues. New doesn't mean good. It just means it failed once already..... Test, Verify, Replace. Don't troubleshoot with Visa. Doubting isn't knowing. GD

95 Legacy is OBD-II compliant. Hook up a scan tool - the fans should come on at coolant temp of 204* F. GD

Maybe they can, but they probably won't. Has to do with their warranty policies - all the Subaru dealers I know of put 3 year/36,000 on all repairs. Can't warranty a used part. They would only consider it if there was no other option (IE the part is no longer available through SOA). GD

Agreed - the immobilizer is just that - it IMMOBILIZES the car. You must marry the ECU to the VIN and the key. It is possible to do this without the Subaru dealer tools but it's not a simple or guaranteed process. Our tuner does it and never speaks of his ability to do as a 100% sure bet. The dealer will probably not marry a used ECU. But a good tuner can probably do it. There may also be custom ROM's out there that can disable the system..... I've heard some talk about that and I know it's been done on the Mitsubishi EVO (I've done it personally on those). GD

What to look for: Newer model Subaru. Go with a Legacy. GD

The 2.2 will blow HG's around 300k typically. They just wear out. Perfect maintenance will not stop it. GD

Don't drive it much. The combustion gasses will pit the head gasket mating surfaces. Coolant sitting in the cylinders is no good either. GD

The issue was resolved in 2010. Use of the 770 gaskets will fix engines back to 2000. For engines prior to that you must change pistons to use the new gasket. GD

That's pretty much all Ford trucks. I pulled the cab off the 2004 5.4 I did head gaskets on last. F. THAT. Me and Fords don't get along. I usually just turn down those jobs. GD

That's a 96 25D block. With 2.2 heads the compression would be off the charts as evidenced by your insane compression numbers. You CANNOT run that engine without damaging the pistons. The static compression ratio on that engine would be over 12:1. We tried building one of those years ago and even mixing in E85 it wouldn't stay out of detonation and melted the #4 piston. #4 piston is melted or has shattered ring lands. Gauranteed. You need 97-99 pistons to make that work. The bores are probably fine. Some vertical scoring won't matter. Just drop in 97-99 pistons with new rings. DO NOT hone the cylinders. You will create an oil burning disaster. GD

O2 sensor is not used except for cruise and idle..... narrow band sensor.....can't hurt to replace it if it's bad though. Check the vacuum routing to the manifold/atmospheric pressure sensor and switching solenoid is correct and make sure the switching solenoid works and the sensor is reporting correctly (18 - 24 in/Hg) at idle. Check for signal dropouts in the TPS. A graphing meter helps for this but you can do I with an analog meter too. Digital is useless for testing these. GD

Right. Any area that doesn't touch fuel can be smooth. And newer stuff that's direct injected should be smooth everywhere but all that stuff is computer modeled and likely should not be touched. You can smooth out the interior of the manifold below the throttle body, etc if it's port injected. The head intake ports should not be too smooth. GD

Lift the differential up by the stub and push the bearing race back in. Gravity has pulled the diff down and pushed the bearing cup out a bit. GD

You can't accidentally flash the ECU. It's a very intentional process that involves special connectors under the dash to put the ECU in write mode. GD

And the threaded carpenter nails holding the intake together on a Ford. GD

Shop tool for installation? Yes Subaru makes them through Kent Moore. They are about $45 IIRC. Special order. You don't need it though. GD

They only have one model - Open Port 2.0. A Tactrix is not OBD-II it's an open source SSM (Subaru Select Monitor). It not only allows all OBD-II functionality but it also does all internal SSM live data and allows reflashing of the internal ECU flash ROM. You can also use it with an Android app. You just need a $6 USB cable adaptor from amazon. They work on Mitsubishi as well. Mostly used to tune EVO's. GD

That's hilarious!!! We use those all the time. It's a rebranded and price jacked Launch C-Reader. https://www.amazon.com/Launch-Tech-301050099-CReader-Diagnostic/dp/B00CP8CV7U/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1488155023&sr=1-9&keywords=launch+creader They work ok for generic OBD-II. If you want specific Subaru functionality then you need a Tactrix. https://www.tactrix.com GD

Bad plug wire. Probably on its last legs and disturbing it caused an electron leakage path. They will arc down the side of the plug. Get an NGK set. GD

For a carb setup you want the inside of the manifold to be ROUGH not smooth. This creates turbulence which better atomizes the fuel. Smooth surfaces cause smooth flow and allow the fuel to settle on the surfaces. For fuel injection you want smooth surfaces - the atomization is handled by high pressure injection forcing the fuel through tiny holes in the injector diffuser cap. Smooth manifolds allow higher velocity airflow because the turbulence isn't working against the direction of flow. GD

If the radiator is the brass/copper style have it cleaned and leak tested. Should cost about $75 or so. I use Able Radiator, or Superior Radiator on my side of town or there is Mac's Radiator - might be closer to you. I could get you a new one for about $125 You cannot make any causal determination without first ensuring the radiator is operational. If you want to bring it by my shop I could use my $1k Snap-On thermal imaging camera to see if the temp gradient across the radiator is uniform. GD

It does not have an idle control. It has a drive by wire throttle body. One of the common problems we see is these getting dirty and not responding the way the computer asks. It is most prevalent with 05/06/07 DBW throttle bodies. You can try cleaning it with induction cleaner but if that doesn't work a new throttle body will be needed. They ain't cheap. GD

Not if it's a dual AVCS engine. Most from Japan in that range are. We only get that on '08+ STI and the EZ/FB chain engines. You can run AVCS engines without the control but to do it correctly you need to swap the cam sprockets and block the cam nose oil ports with set screws. The P2433 is complaining about the air injection pressure sensor which is located in the valve under the drivers side of the intake manifold. That one DOES need to stay even if you delete the air pump system as the engine uses it for mixture control. GD

Yes one of my guys has a an EA81 with SPFI pistons and a Weber. It's really quite a large performance increase over stock. The area under the torque curve is a gigantic improvement. It probably makes 80-85 peak HP but the lift to the torque curve on the low end is substantial. I wouldn't be surprised if it close to doubled it. More than that - get an EJ. Unless you are prepared to spend years of your life learning about forced induction. Not even kidding. And doing forced induction with a carb..... besides being a waste of time, it's a whole different critter. You'll want to lookup such things as the Maserati Biturbo.....LoL GD