GeneralDisorder

If a carbed engine has this problem then you need to clean out all the PCV lines and fittings and replace the PCV filter element in the filter housing. You have too much manifold vacuum present at the suction side (driver's side) valve cover - which means the orificed vacuum breaker line that goes to the filter element is clogged or restricted. GD

Cone washer is a dealer only part. It's actually a mechanical shaft locking ring. Such things are common in machinery but not in automotive. GD

LOL. You'll be fine. E-tubes "aerate" and "emulsify" the fuel and air. Turbulence and roughness in the e-tube really isn't important. It is their function so a bit of a scratch isn't going to make a bit of difference. GD

It does NOT use a push clutch. No EJ series turbocharged MT used a pusher clutch till the EJ255 was introduced. The EJ22T uses a pull clutch like all EJ turbo's including the present day EJ257 in the 2012 STi. I own a '91 SS with a full Exedy clutch kit and lightweight flywheel for an '02 WRX. 100% Bolt in replacement. The only change is a stronger PP and 3mm larger diameter disc. Correct - no part of the systems are interchangeable. The pressure plates will not mount to the opposite style flywheel and the clutch discs are a different diameter. Slave is on the opposite side of the fork and the master and lines correspond to the size and location of the slave. An '02 TS is a NON TURBO with an EJ251 and will have a push clutch style system. It is not directly compatible and is after the '99/'00 5MT switchover. It will require a different driveline, different exhaust hanging system, different linkage, etc. It's really not worth the work for a non-turbo tranny. It would be easier and you will get a better clutch with more holding power and stronger transmission by sticking with the turbo transmissions. GD

Rockauto calls the transmission mounts the rear motor mounts. Right and left are symetrical and identical. Same part number used for both. GD

It was fixed by a recall kit. Search here on the board and you will find the applicable part number for the kit. GD

The lifetime warrantee on Autozone and other cheap aftermarket parts isn't worth the hassle. That rule is doubly true of fuel pumps. OEM for ALL makes and models is the only way to go. You will be replacing that pump every one to two years till you give up. Fortunately the stock pumps rarely fail so used OEM is the best option by far. GD

A large socket and a hammer will knock the hub free from the back side. And yes it works on the car also. About 20% of the time the inner bearing cone has spun on the hub. Creating a ridge that makes it REALLY freakin tough to drag the race over. Beating on those type failures is generally futile unless you have a huge hammer. Need a hub tamer/hub grappler etc, or a press to dissasemble them. GD

The signal from a VR is much too "dirty" to use where an optical signal was being used. Optical produces a perfect square wave. Also there are two pickups in the distributor - one with 4 large slots and one with a LOT of little slots. I havent counted them but it looks like it could be every two degrees so probably 180 of them. I doubt a stock EDIS wheel would have the right granularity for either of these inputs without reprograming or signal conditioning. GD

Dayco, Gates, or the dealer. Personally I prefer the oem hoses. Aftermarket tend to be thicker walled and the factory clamps dont like that. GD

Pull-type clutch is used on turbos only. The throwout bearing is "pulled" toward the transmisson by the clutch fork - its "pulls" on the pressure plate fingers Push type has the throwout pushing into the pressure plate. It "pushes" on the pressure plate fingers. GD

The ECU uses the optical pickup in the distributor to know when to fire the injectors - that is it's one and only crank posistion reference. With a stock ECU the distributor must stay. GD

Automatic. I wouldn't - but that's me. For $1k I could have a nice Legacy or at least a 5 speed D/R. An EA82 auto with 115k on it is still less desireable than any legacy with over 200k on it IMO. Especially for that price. GD

So you can wrench a bit - everyone that can wrench tries their hand at an engine swap - 10% of them get it done and 1% do it right. What do you know about electrical? Custom fabrication? These are much more important than wrenching. Anyone can take something apart and put it back together. Custom work is a different animal. Being "around" Subaru's for 15 years is pretty meaningless since you are 21 according to your age listing. Being 6 and gnawing on a fudge-sickle in the corner while your old man wrenches on the family wagon doesn't count. I've been driving and wrenching on them since I was 18 - that's 14 years of *real* experience. GD

You ever done an EJ swap before? What qualifications do you have for that project? GD

Unless you plan on doing an EJ swap - let it go. The EA82T blew at 92k for a reason. GD

No. GD

Pretty easy to test it. Just jumper the two pins in the body side connector and the fan should come on. GD

External radiator leaks will not generally result in overheating unless you run low on coolant. He says it isnt low. I drove a 98 25D about 50 miles last week that had a 2-drip-per-second leak from the water pump weep hole. You just have to watch the coolant level. I've seen dozens of leaking radiators - they don't overheat unless they run low on coolant. GD

Yes. A 95 automatic 2.2 is a direct swap - no wiring required at all. 96 to 98 will require a different exhaust header. Otherwise its plug and play. GD

Yep - that's how I do them if I'm pulling the pump. Which is most of the time. GD

This is simply not true. The OEM thermostat's are not the locking variety and will generally function just fine after an "overheat". Here in the NW it is comparatively rare to see radiators plug up. In nearly 100% of failure cases they start leaking externally due to cracked plastic tanks or leaks between the core and the tank. Compression check will show nothing. You have to put high pressure to the cylinder as Ivan noted to find a HG leak. GD

Rod knock. It's toast. Pull the pan. You'll find the metal. GD

The shafts never bend. The pulleys can if dropped. GD

Not even worth the hassle if it's been done wrong the last two times. For the three hours or so it takes to do it yourself... I say don't let the dealer touch it again. Do it yourself and fix it right. GD