GeneralDisorder

That axle looks about normal to me - but it's hard to say from pics. Inner axle boots always look a little stretched and those splines in the front arean't usually very tight between the axle and transmission stub.... hard to say. If you are going to own an EA82 and are going to attempt to track down every rattle, squeek and sproing you hear - you need to invest in one of these. It will save your sanity and help you a tremendous amount when looking for this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Steelman-STE6600-Stethoscope-Squeak-Rattle-Finding/dp/B002XMW02Y GD

Edit - Looking at it closer and thinking back to what that ballast resistor is for - it's purpose is to drop the voltage when the engine is running to where it's at when cranking the engine without the alternator pitching in to help. Thus you need to move the black/white wire to the coil positive and then take out the ballast resistor. You really should also be running the later coil that matches the later distrubutor so that it's designed for full system voltage. There should also be another wire going to the coil positive currently that bypasses the ballast resistor when you are cranking the engine. Verify that this is the case and just leave that wire attached to the coil. GD

They are typically soldered - not brazed. Brazing is usually too hot of an operation and you would be in danger of blowing holes in the brass of the tanks and tubes. Personally I have had bad luck with radiator repair - I just take mine to a radiator shop. The cost is not significant enough to warrant the frustration IMO. Usually costs me about $65 to have a radiator flushed, sealed up, and painted. I typically have any plastic plugs and drain cock's replaced with brass or plugged off at the same time. Just not worth the frustration of doing it myself. GD

I would caution against the redline at first - it's expensive - about $12 a quart. Try a full fill of straight ATF (yes - automatic transmission fluid) and see if that helps your grinding. If it does then don't use the MT90 - Get one of these in this order of preference: 1. Subaru Extra-S 2. Motul 75w90 3. Redline 75w90NS The MT90 doesn't have the right additives for the hypoid differential. Those three do. But ONLY use one of those ($$$$) if you have any luck at all with the ATF. ATF is the smoothest shifting gear lube you will ever find - but it doesn't have the right additives for the hypoid diff so you can't run it long-term. A few hundred miles won't hurt though. I use it to clean out dirty, nasty transmissions all the time. GD

Sorry - I meant I would have to see it in person. You should pull the e-clip that connects the choke plate shaft to the linkage and see if it's the linkage or the shaft, or misadjusted plates, etc. GD

Definitely sounds like either wheel bearings or a really bad axle joint. You bought an EA82 didn't you? :-p Let the nickle and dime game begin! GD

Fill it with ATF and drive it for a while like that. See if it improves. ATF is only about $14 a gallon and that is enough to do a full fill (3.7 quarts). I never changed the transmission gear oil when I had it (checked it and it looked/smelled fine) - but it wasn't a problem either and I had it for only a few years. GD

I would have to see it. Probably the linkage is binding and needs to be adjusted (bent). GD

What makes you suspect the HG? EA81's are not like EJ25's - they don't just blow them because the stars are aligned. As for rebuilding an engine - the head gasket is a GASKET - it's also nothing like rebuilding an engine or tranny. They are simple to change. GD

Sounds like the syncro is shot. Time for a tranny rebuild or replacement. There's no good cure for that. You can try a quart of Rislone in place of one quart of gear oil on a fresh fill of the tranny (takes about 3.7 quarts). But it sounds like it's probably pretty shot. GD

You don't count turns - you adjust till the engine runs correctly - either by ear or with a wide-band O2 sensor. Start it at 3 turns out from seated - then adjust your idle speed and mixture (once warmed up) till they are where you want. Get the idle speed down to about 800 and then adjust the mixture to lean-best idle. That is about 1/4 turn out from where the engine starts to stumble and change pitch when you are screwing the mixture screw in. GD

Yes a Subaru OEM thermostat is always a good idea. Good call Tom. GD

It could be an axle or it could be a stripped hub - since it doesn't move in 2WD - start the car and put it in 1st gear. Set the parking brake and release the clutch (as if you were driving in first). Then get out and inspect - if the axle nut on one side is turning but the wheel is not - you have stripped the splines out of the hub. If the axle nuts aren't turning then slip underneath and check the axle shafts. One of them should be turning and that's the axle that's broken. If nothing is moving - you have lost the front diff and then it's time for the 5 speed. :-p GD

Is the core clogged? There's a control valve under the dash that shunts the hot water back into the return line instead of pushing it through the core - depending on the position of the hot/cold lever. I would take both hoses loose from the core in the engine bay and insure that you have flow - and then insure than the control valve is operating and not clogged or something. GD

I sent you an email - I don't have a suby junk yard and I'm pretty sure we've never met :-p. I would love to take a look and see what you are dealing with. I never charge for a simple once-over to tell you what you what my impression of it is. It sounds like it's got some nice features that most here would consier an upgrade - the Weber (we typically use a 32/36 DGV) and the rear discs..... Let me know if you want to bring it by. GD

Yes I agree - you could get away with a new tire in this case. But it MUST be the same brand, model, size, and factory of origin. Different brands will be different outside diameter even if they are marked the same size. Manufacturing differences between factories can lead to a tire having the same markings (brand/model/size) and still be different enough to cause a problem. GD

It entirely depends on how badly the valve is bent - I have seen burned exhaust valves still register 40 psi on a gauge. But when you get readings that low (well below 100 psi) then you need to start pulling heads off and investigating. It's very possible that a valve is only bent enough to not seal properly and cause a reduction in cylinder pressure. You need to run a leak-down test to be sure. If it's valves that are leaking the test will tell you definitively where the damage is. The interferance on these engines is between the valves - not between the piston and the valves. When a belt goes or is installed incorrectly it can cause the intake valves to hit to the exhaust valves. GD

That's essentially what's happening, yeah. The thermostat being gutted keeps the flow happening and gas bubbles are allowed to work their way to the top of the radiator and escape. As long as the gas bubbles don't interrupt the flow of coolant - they are essentially benign. Coolant flows and carries the heat away from the engine. The engine doesn't overheat. I've seen this work MANY times - cars that won't drive ten miles without overheating will generally drive fine without a thermostat. Obviously it's a temporary solution but it will get you to your destination or to the shop where the repair is to be performed without a tow. GD

If you enjoy not paying for expensive transmission repairs (transfer clutch and drum on auto's and viscous coupler's on manual's) then you need to buy 4 new tires or find the exact same brand and within about 1/16" tire wear to replace just the one. Easier to just get a new set and call it good insurance. If you destroy the transfer clutch or viscous coupler you are looking at $1000 to $1500 repair. I buy broken Subaru's all the time and rebuild/repair them and I know the costs and part pricing very well as well as what damage can be done and how invasive it is to fix. I rebuild transmissions when needed - the parts alone run about $500. GD

You dont immediately go for the stop-leak. First you gut the thermostat and run it till that doesn't work anymore - which could be thousands of miles or farther. GD

You can't use the later (46cc - down from 55cc) heads without also changing the pistons or you will increase the compression to around 11.5:1 and will definitely require premium fuel. It will increase the power but if you are going to go that route you might as well just use the EJ22 heads (40cc) and get it up to 12:1 for max performance. It will pull the torque up a lot higher. The HP is around 190 but is generally considered to be limited by how much the 2.2 heads will flow up high. GD

It's a dual-carb 1.6. Other than that - we can't tell you anything really. The numbers are meaningless to us. It's likely that it came from a performance model if it came with that intake manifold but the manifold will fit any EA71 so really there's no way to tell without knowing it's history and exactly what it came from. I will tell you that there are a LOT more carbs and manifolds out there than there are engines these days. Engines wear out or blow up - carbs and manifolds are what people save off the dead one's. There are 100 such manifold setups for every 1 actual dual-carb high-compression long block - seems that way anyhow. GD

Typically junk yard or forum members actually. Ebay and craigslist rarely have the sort of transmission you are looking for. GD

It's not economical to rebuild them - it runs about $500+ in parts and the labor is pretty high - you need a press at the least and it would be helpful if you have experience rebuilding this sort of thing. If you find a shop that's willing to do it you are probably looking at no less than $1000 to have one rebuilt with new bearings, syncro's, seals, etc. Remember that it's not just a transmission - it's also a front diff, and a transfer case all in one unit - it's actually called a transaxle. When you consider what it would cost to have all three of those items rebuilt on a truck you understand why it's so costly. For under $200 you can get a good condition used transmission. Your choice. GD

No I don't have any EA82 chassis - I have in the past but I've got rid of them all. I have two EA81 hatchbacks and they are my number one favorite body style. Both will end up with EJ's but right now have the EA81's and they run just great. And I have a '91 Turbo Sport Sedan - which is the only first-gen Legacy body that I find appealing in the cosmetics department. I don't like the post-facelift front end nor the wagons in the looks department - but I can and have lived with their ugliness. The '91 SS is the best looking of the 90 to 94 Legacy lineup IMO. Those are actually my only personal Soobs now. I have a truck for truck type duties, a car hauler trailer, and various other projects around here that I don't consider to be "mine" in the sense that I wouldn't own them on paper . Just the two hatch's, my SS, and the truck. Together they do all I need. GD