GeneralDisorder

There is no throttle plate or idle circuit to facilitate the engine running with a throttle plate closed. Thus ported vacuum is not possible on this device. It IS NOT suited to automotive use. Period. I agree it's neat to see a VV carb big enough for a Subaru engine. But it's purely acedemic. It's the same price as a brand new Weber and by itself it would be a nightmare to make it move a car down the road. GD

You would be swapping in a VERY problematic engine in place of your super reliable 2.2. The EJ25D is very troublesome. You absolutely should NOT do this. It's a bad idea and will ruin the value of the 96 OWB 5 speed. That's a rare single-year model and highly desireable. If you want the problem engine then sell it and buy a 97 to 99. HUGE fail to get 30 HP. GD

Don't bother with any of the aftermarket gaskets or seals. Most are junk. Get everything from the dealer. GD

That's not a swapped engine - it's stock. But you need to get manifold gaskets from the dealer or (if you want crap) order them at a parts store for a basic Legacy not an outback so you get the 2.2 single port gaskets. GD

Resealing the plastic plates does NOT work. There is no sealant known to man that will seal those things in the long haul. They have to be replaced with the steel/aluminium plates so they share a more similar expansion rate to the block. GD

I never said they didn't exist. But you won't find a set by calling junk yards. To the yards they don't exist because there isn't enough of them to bother keeping track in their computers. GD

You can just cut the existing studs and chamfer the ends so the nuts will start easily. That's what I did in the picture that Stuart posted. I was installing a new WP and it came with studs. So I simply shortened them as needed. Cut with a hacksaw or band-saw, etc and then chamfer on a belt sander, etc. If you want to use bolts - I would get a 6 x 1.0 x 10mm (that's 10mm thread length). That should be sufficient to anchor the pulley and not interfere with anything behind the WP. The fan that we used on Stuart's Loyale is from an EA81 with air conditioning. GD

The two inside the connector that goes to the thermo-switch. Just connect them together and the fan should run constantly. GD

They were never imported to the US by Subaru on a car in anything but 13". There were a few sets sold as upgrades in the 70's. Should you find a set you would be about the 3rd person in the US that I know of to find a set. It is extremely unlikely. You can (and should) get all this information from a simple forum search. Asking these redundant questions is tiresome. GD

Peugeot 504, and 505. Never on a Subaru. 6 lug is the answer. GD

I do these all the time - but I'm down in Portland. Were you wanting to fix them or sell them as-is to someone that can do the repair? If you remove the guts from the thermostat they will typically drive fine if the HG failure isn't too horrible. I've had a couple people drive their cars down to me from Seattle using that method. GD

It's about a 4:1 ratio. 1 gallon of alcohol to each 4 gallons of gas. You can go higher if you need to in order to pass. Don't leave the stuff in there without diluting it - it will eat your fuel system just like E85 will. Percentages up to about 1/3 are safe for the short term. It's worked on every car I've used it on. GD

First - this is CLEAR evidence that your mechanic is incompetant. When replacing cam seals, belts, etc you ALWAYS replace the the $40 water pump. Because you are already right there. The cam seal leakage should have been a full timing belt/WP/seal job and you wouldn't be having this issue today. Further - a water pump job should cost no more than about half what he quoted. If nothing else is being changed (clearly that's his MO) - then it's about 3 hours labor total to change the pump. That should be no more than $350 even at dealer labor rates and considering the price of the pump. More CLEAR evidence that your mechanic is a blind fool. I have an engine in my garage right now that happily ran to 470k before loosing a rod bearing. You don't need a new car - you need a new mechanic. One thats going to treat you right, not rip you off, and do what's in your best interest not in the interest of having return business. I do this every day and I see it all the time. Same thing happened to my neighbor down the street - she had the timing belt done about 30k miles ago and the water pump wasn't replaced by her "mechanic" so here I am stuck telling her the bad news because of some damn fool's corner cutting and pocket lining. I HATE having to be the bearer of that kind of message and I fully blame the last mechanic for putting me in that situation. GD

Yep - it was an option on the GL's. Even the EA81's had it as an option. It actually works quite well on a 5MT if you are on the flat and level. Forget about it seamlessly pulling hills. Clutch will turn it off so you can't shift with it on. GD

It's nothing new - it's a variable venturi carb. They use them on motorcycles all the time. Harley carbs are basically the same but could actually be used for an automotive application. The largest of the Harley carbs are actually used quite frequently as upgrades on the Suzuki Samurai 1.3. They aren't big enough for a 1.8 though. Big problems for automotive use: 1. They lack any kind of choke. Cold enrichment is accomplished manually with the mixture control. 2. (this version) has a manual mixture adjustment that has to be dialed in for each desired RPM and running condition you wish to run at. It does NOT manually adjust with throttle (venturi) position. Couldn't be run from a single cable hooked to a gas pedal 3. It has no provision for ported vacuum and being a variable venturi design - it doesn't even have a place you could add such a feature. This is the biggest problem with running the Harley VV carbs - no place to hookup the distributor vacuum advance so you have to recurve the disty to be 100% mechanical or go with something like EDIS or an MSD system. GD

Pass. As others have said it will be a mess inside. 95% chance you will have to rebuild/replace the entire engine. Leaking coolant externally sounds like exhaust port coolant jacket cracking so the heads are big paper weights - coolant will destroy the cylinder liners sitting for years like that so you would be looking at a new block, new heads, etc. And you would never get your $400 back. Go spend your $400 on a first generation Legacy. 20 more HP and no ancient turbo-charged mess to deal with. Last Legacy I bought needed a timing belt job and radiator and cost $550. GD

Standard practice on EA's - they sometimes have a tendancy to not want to line up right with respect to the pilot bearing and the input shaft. Leaving the PP bolts loose till you have the engine and transmission mated together eliminates this problem. GD

More than likely the distributor shaft bushings are shot. GD

Old wives tale actually. At least on the Subaru's it is. Once the syncro is engaged (shift complete) all it's component parts are spinning the same speed - no wear can take place since none of the peices are moving relative to each other. You can wear out the nylon fork slides but that's a different issue entirely and won't cause grinding. Resting your hand on the shifter is not detrimental that I've seen - the most common failure on the 5MT's is 2nd gear syncro grinding - which simply can't be from resting your hand on the shifter because you aren't in second long enough durring normal driving to affect damage that way - and the other failure is rear input shaft bearing failure - which can be attributed to a number of things - not changing the gear oil for one, and mis-alignment from missing bell-housing dowel pins for another. GD

No - this one: http://www.rislone.ca/34100.htm GD

You should start your own post. GD

Well - he may have redone them recently. But rear bearings take some finess when installing. Could be a bad install job. Pretty easy to mess them up. GD

Just fill it, run it for 100 miles or so and drain it out. You should notice that the shifting is a lot smoother by then. Then you can put whatever you like in it. Redline is my #3 choice actually - behind Subaru extra-s and Motul. GD

Nothing compares to the bias ply Interco Swampers. I wouldn't even bother with anything else. I've tried lesser tires and there's just no comparison. Sure - they will beat you mercilessly on the freeway - but it's the price you pay for unmatched mud performance. GD

That's a problem - because it shouldn't move freely. It should have spring tension against it from the choke spring. Almost certainly the choke spring is broken. That's a very common issue with EA82 Hitachi's. The hook on the end of the spring wears through and falls off. You may be able to bend a new hook into the end of the spring with some pliers or find a good one at the junk yard - or buy a new choke assembly from the dealer ($$$). The other option is to convert the choke to a manual using one of the universal manual choke kits thats available at most auto parts stores. GD