GeneralDisorder

Anaerobic flange sealant is the best stuff for sealing case halves on transmissions and engines. Permatex Anaerobic or Loctite 518. Both are excellent and it doesn't take much at all. GD

No - ALL EJ starters will fit EA's. EJ manual *transmissions* need a starter with a different step on the drive side to fit the starter hole. But these starters WILL fit any EA. There is a difference in auto vs. manual starters but it has to do with gear reductions inside the starter. Effectively one cranks slightly faster and one has more torque but in practice this simply doesn't matter. Both get the job done just fine. GD

Doesn't work for beans on Subaru's due to the cylinder orientation. That and it's a stupid gimick to avoid doing an afternoon's work and $100 in gaskets. GD

It's condensation and a sign that your PCV system isn't working at peak performance. Clean/replace all your PCV hoses, get a PCV valve from the dealer, and replace the PCV filter if equipped (carbed models). GD

85 to 89 DL's. The cool part is that you can swap out the sealed beams for off-the-shelf H4 conversion housings. Some of which will even work with HID's. You can't get squat for the GL assemblies without a lot of custom work, etc. I just bought an HID setup and low beam conversion housings for my EA81 hatch - $88 shipped for the whole mess. GD

I haven't commented about his build lately - I lurk here waiting for the inevitable fail. He attacked me. So I responded. I don't care about his EA other than to laugh when it blows itself to bits. I have plenty of concerns much bigger than what some fool does with his money and time and I haven't commented on that. I've said a few things about what he should do and what he should reasonably shoot for from that engine - that's it. GD

Quite frankly sir - you have no idea what my training is or is not. GD

I wouldn't buy a non-OEM pump if you couldn't access them easily. If it was a drop-the-tank type of operation like many american vehicles - I would go with OEM for the longevity. But Subaru's are easily accesible. GD

Denso platinum's are what I use - quite a bit cheaper than the NGK's platinums or iridiums and they are basically the same plug. Japanese made. GD

Could have got a Walbro for around $100. Kinda silly to buy an OEM one new. They almost never fail - I've replaced like two of them in my entire career. Both times with used one's and no repeat failures. GD

OEM is usually not that much more expensive and they are better fitting as noted. You could try one of the online dealers like 1stsubaruparts.com or subarupartsforyou.com. They tend to be as cheap as my wholesale discount at my local dealer and my prices aren't alarming - often similar to aftermarket actually. Especially on H6 parts. GD

Check the ground on the engine bay harness.... follow the MAF sensor lead back to the harness and then follow the harness out to the end till you find the ground(s). Those will be the main ECU grounds. Also check for grounds on the manifold itself. The manifold harness should have one that bolts to the manifold. GD

Run a compression test just to see..... Could be burned exhaust valves - did you do a valve adjustment when you repalaced the VC gaskets? I had a similar and very frustrating problem on a 25D not long ago. Turned out the owner did the HG's and timing belt himself and didn't properly torque the intake cam pulley bolt. It had chewed up the front of the cam shaft and allowed the intake cam to advance the intake valve timing about 15 to 20 degree's. This caused the compression reading to go UP on that side of the engine (about 220 compared to 185 on the 2/4) and resulted in 1/3 misfire codes, etc - just as in your case. It certainly sounds valve train related since that's the only thing the 1/3 cylinder's share is a common camshaft. GD

Get one from Discount Import Parts. Aftermarket is a relative term..... there's quality (often from the OEM manufacturer but rebranded) and there's junk out there. DIP sells very good quality parts. Check with them and if they can get one I would go with them. Junk yard (used) could be an option but these often leak at the bottom screw where the wire attaches and they tend to be something that gets changed once or twice in the life of the car due to reading low or high or not at all. GD

Correct - any Subaru starter from 1982 to 2004 will interchange. With the exception that EJ manual transmissions require one that fits into their smaller bell-housing hole. The bolt pattern is still identical and ANY starter in that year range will fit any of the EA's. GD

Blue or black, about 2"x3", six pin connection, attached to the hood release cable bracket close to the drivers left knee. GD

Yeah that sounds like something I would be interested in. I'll send you a PM with my info. GD

It is important to note that not ever plug on a harness will have something to plug into. Some are for accesories you don't have. Some are for diagnostic purposes, etc. If it looks dirty inside like it's never been connected to anything - chances are that it hasn't and doesn't need to be. The additional temp switch in the radiator is for models equipped with AC. If you don't have AC then it could be a used radiator from a model that did, etc. GD

You have low compression - fine. Now you have to find out why. Next step is a leak-down test. I really can't understand why no one sugests to continue with the proper testing methods. We can guess at this all day - won't get you anywhere. GD

I have a trailer and I can tow them (one at a time) for about $150 each (gas and labor). You would save considerably more than that as "services" in general are about 32% lower priced here in the Portland than Seattle and I charge about 60% or less of what shops in my area charge. So for a $2500 job in Seattle I am usually around $1200. Ballpark of course..... I also typically replace more parts and use better quality ones than most shops. GD

Seriously? What a pile of morons. I should open an auto electric shop. Sooooo many tech's out there that don't know their way around a meter. Pretty sad since everything in our world is electric now. GD

I've done it - worked fine. Redrill the flexplate just as you would a flywheel. GD

These are rediculously simple. Drift out the old ones with a brass punch and BFH. Drift (on the outer race only) in the new one's and reassemble. They are 6207 ball bearings - you can get 6207-2RS bearings that are pre-greased and sealed for life. If you are really high-speed you can go with 7207 bearings and get axial thrust capability (IMHO the hubs were originally designed to use 7207's). May or may not have to add a .001" shim ring to the inner race spacer to get the right amount of preload on the bearings. The shim dropped our hub temp readings about 20* after a freeway run. GD

1. Reman axles are not all the same. Subaru of America sells reman axles that are of excellent quality. 2. Many problems people have with reman axles can be traced to really poor quality grease and boots. 3. Lack of attention to engine and transmission mounts accounts for a large number of repeat joint failures. 4. Clicking and clacking is not always the axle. Improper installation, bad wheel bearings, and a general lack of attention to the details of the cone washer and hub fitment accounts for a lot of problems people have. 5. Personally I buy either brand new axles from EMPI ($60 to $70 each), or remans from the dealer. I also pay close attention to numbers 1 through 4 above. I don't have repeat failure problems with axles. GD

You could do it - for constant throttle applications. But it would be dangerous under boost because the mixture has to be manually adjusted. Get a little too lean and hit detonation under boost - kiss your engine goodbye. Frankly you are better off with a multi-barrel carb that can be jetted for correct mixture under boost. Either that or a boost enrichment injector. GD