GeneralDisorder

Typical of these. Sorry about your luck but we warned you! GD

IT IS NOT A SUZUKI. Not in any way. GD

You say the fluid "seems" new - but have you drained the pan contents and really given it a good look? The fact that the FWD fuse makes the symtoms go away means that the issue is mechanical with the clutch pack. The first step is always a drain and fill - usually two to three of them. ATF is cheap so you might as well try. 90% of the torque bind out there is fixed with a drain/fill. GD

Yep - that's how I do it as well. GD

Check the cone washer and it's mating surface in the hub. This is often a neglected area where lots of strange clicking, popping and creaking noises can eminate. Wheel bearings are run of the mill 6207 ball bearings (2 per wheel). For best price and higest quality you should get 6207-2RS-C3 bearings from your friendly local bearing supplier. GD

Exhaust tubing is quite thin. Much thinner than the Lenz tubing I bent on a regular basis - half as thick or less. 14g is .07" The one with fewer dies is a newer design - it's not less strong - it uses a differerent "action" and I beleive it will make prettier bends. It draws the tube around the die rather than pushing the die into the tube.....That's the style we used and I liked it. That is definitely the one *I* would buy. GD

Contact "Crazyeights". He has an EA81 with throttle body injection and MS on it. He is good about replying to PM's too - nice guy. I don't know how much he knows about the MS1 or running with MPFI but it's worth a try.... GD

Ok - couple things: 1. You need to use a test light to check for the pulse at the negative side of the coil. Digital meters don't respond fast enough and the analog needle might not either. You should see the light flash when you use a test light from battery ground to the negative side of the coil. 2. 11.4 is normal for a 12v battery when the ignition is on and some accesories are drawing power. It should be sufficient. 3. You say the negative post is 0.26v and you say the yellow tach wire is 8.7v..... that doesn't make any sense because they should be connected to each other. The yellow lead from the distributor and the tach wire from the cabin should be attached to the negative post. The black w/white stripe wire from the cabin and the distributor should be attached to the positive. GD

Not possible. Totally different platforms. GD

You would only need a new disc and T/O bearing for a 5 speed. GD

Yep - TIG weld it and retap it or replace the cam carrier. GD

Hhhmmm..... Part number of the Exedy XT6 kit I posted above: 15009 Part number of the Luk kit posted by Zap: 15-009 Coincidence? I'm thinking the Luk one is made by Exedy also..... Just an observation. My only experience with an Luk clutch was the 2WD one that was on my lifted wagon and got me stranded in the middle of a 2' deep water crossing..... it had a "lip" around the pressure plate fingers and when I pushed in the clutch it filled up with silt and caused the pressure plate to stick in the "disengaged" posistion. Had to pull the motor at Qman's place and replace the darn thing. In any case I have used dozens of Exedy kits and had nothing but clutching perfection. The few times I have strayed away from the brand it has been a total nightmare trying to even get a kit with the right parts in it for the job. And Amazon has a great deal with Exedy - best price (less than any of the one's on rockauto), and free shipping! GD

Any good radiator shop can fix that pinhole leak. Being an all-metal radiator they can crimp off that tube if they can't solder the leak closed. GD

The EA82T is not a reliable upgrade and installing one would be more work than an EJ22 swap. Because in addition to the MPFI wireing harness/ECU conversion you would also be dealing with notching the cross-member for the turbo and a complete exhaust swap. Besides that - the EA82T is well known to be troublesome. As with any turbo it's a hose and wiring nightmare and for all the added complexity you get 20 less HP than the EJ22E which is a much simpler (and 10x more reliable) engine. EJ swaps are not that bad.... well at least after you have done half a dozen . I know everything involved in both swaps and I would MUCH rather do the EJ22. I would charge more for a turbo of either flavor but the EA82T is a real headache of an engine. You don't want one - trust me. GD

This has been a recent field of study of mine - trying to buy a suitable flywheel for my EJ22 turbo. What I have found is that there is a some things to note besides just the weight: 1. *where* the weight is located is as important as how much total weigth there is. More weight at the crank's center is less effective at maintaining rotation than the same weight at the outer edge. Thus there is a lot of engineering that goes into a lightweight flywheel that is going to perform well in all situations. 2. Avoid the composite aluminium and steel units at all costs. These can and do suffer from catastrophic failure as they are essentially bolted together. Don't buy anything that isn't a solid cast chromoly flywheel. 3. The "super" lightweight models tend to affect idle quality and can cause clutch "stuttering" and other issues. It is best to stay around the 12 to 14 lb range. Any lighter and it causes problems for a lot of people (based on my research over on NASIOC, etc). Being that there's a lot of engineering that went into the design, and making them work well in all situations..... my feeling is that the best product is the Exedy flywheels - they have the best reputation and they also make the best OEM replacement clutches - all the stock clutch components that I've replaced have been made by Daikin which is a subsidiary of Exedy. I settled on the Exedy flywheel and a stock WRX replacement clutch. The cost is only marginally more than the cheaper stuff.... GD

Exedy - all the way. The only clutch parts I use are Exedy/Daikin or Subaru OEM. This is what you want: EA81 4WD 225mm disc. (Exedy) XT6 pressure plate. (Exedy) Nissan 720 pickup T/O bearing. Normal Subaru pilot bearing. Have the EA81 4WD flywheel cut to a .815" step. GD

No pulse from the coil negative when cranking means the distributor module is bad. Air gap, etc would be set at the factory. GD

I can take a look at my diagrams and tell you - what year is your ECU? It's not the AC one - I don't use that (unless I were doing a swap w/AC - which I personally haven't done since none of the cars I've converted came with AC). As you surmise it is a ground signal for a relay that will need to be powered on the other side of the coil. The early ECU's don't have seperate fan controls so what I like to do is setup one of the fans I install using the ECU's control - this I call the primary fan. The secondary fan I wite to the vehicles existing fan/thermo-switch wireing so it is driven of a completely different system. The last one I did the ECU fan would come of first and only if the temp continued to rise would the secondary fan cut in. That way you aren't uneccesarily pulling fan power from the electrical system by running them in tandem. GD

. That's how I used to do them also. I have a freind that TIG welded the last one for me so it could be tapped for the EA sending unit. I find the resistor modification easier because by using the EJ's temp gauge wireing I can eliminate the manifold harness from the EA and by using a pot it allows adjustability so I'm not *only* correcting for the EJ sending unit but also calibrating the gauge - which would require a similar process if I were using the EA sending unit. Thanks for the offer though! GD

Replace the duty-c and clutch pack yourself for half that or less. It's not a bad job at all and there's a few write-up's with pictures that go over the process. GD

Depends on which transmission you are running..... GD

Ours was bolted down to a table. It was likely a steel table - we built our own. One of the first projects you should do as a welder is build your welding table, oxy-acetylene cart, and MIG welding cart. My shop welding/heating/big-rump roast vice table is 60"x36" and has a solid 1/4" thick plate steel surface. It's no fun to move but it was kinda fun to build . I used an old refrigerated dryer frame I got from my former employer for free (scrapped out the mechanicals). I cut, folded, and mutilated it into a table frame with a shelf about 10" off the floor - to save weight the shelf is made of 1-1/4" plywood. The table legs sit on 4" x 4" x 1/2" plates with 3/4" fine machine thread leveling bolts through each. Greenlee is not bad either. They are a cheaper competitor to Enerpac in this type of equipment. Probably a fine unit though. GD

Yeah - that positive feed into the fusible link box is almost always a problem. What I always do is remove the plastic shell, pry the crimp apart and carefully remove the spade - clean it up as shiny as I can - and then cut the wire and strip the insulation back about 1". Then I crimp the spade back on and solder it till the stranded wire is saturated. Then I put dielectric grease on the connection. This has fixed 100% of those primary feed wires that I've dealt with. The problem is easy to check for - visual inspection - and if the car will run check the temp of the wire at the fusible link end. They will get REAL hot from the poor connection. After my solder fix they are always nice and cool. GD

It's probably chewed up inside - adding lube will just make grinding compound from the shavings and grit. If it's a manual rack I would pull it out and I might look it over and see if it's repairable but it sounds like it probably shot. Replacements aren't too hard to find. GD

When I was using one I was bending a lot of Lenz tubing.... here's a chart of the OD with wall thicknesses: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=3&ved=0CC0QFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lenzinc.com%2Ffiledownload.php%3Ffilename%3Dpdf_4bf3d9eb16f2a.pdf&rct=j&q=lenz%20tubing&ei=hnBATtqeH-HjiAK20b22BQ&usg=AFQjCNF6M02VSraBDtGiuF5pC8OMwKmh7w Our enerpac bender would bend the 1.25" and 1.5" tubing like it was paper - very smooth and never any kinks, etc. Which is just a bit less than 1/8" wall thickness but Lenz tubing is very high quality stuff - 1600 psi working pressure even at 1.5" OD. Does it do bends like a mandrell bender? - no. But it's as good as any non mandrell bent tubing I've seen. But yeah - you can pickup a used one with most of the dies you want.... probably wait around till you spot some used dies on ebay also. And then ebay has a whole selection of Enerpac air-over-hydraulic foot operated pumps that can be added to their benders for about $200 to $300 - making the bending process effortless! The general rule is that when you get into thicker walled stuff.... well they start calling it "pipe". Yes you can buy thick walled tubing..... tubing is always measured on the OD - so that when you talk about tubing you talk about such-and-such OD *and* such-and-such wall thickness - subracting the two gives you the actual ID of the stuff. Pipe on the other hand is measured by ID - so that 1/4" pipe will have a wall thickness of.... well whatever it needs to be. They measure the wall thickness (and thus the OD) of pipe by "Schedule" - which you basically need a freakin chart for because wall thickness depends on ID and changes for every schedule rating..... suffice to say that higher schedule numbers mean thicker walls..... GD