GeneralDisorder

The FPCU is located above the hood release handle on the driver's side under the dash. It's a black or blue module with a 6 pin connector. It will have a Mitsubishi emblem on it. You need to check for power, ground, and tach signal to that box - it also runs the choke on most models and there will be a blue w/red wire that runs to the fuel pump. The FPCU receives it's power from the main fuse box under the dash. Be sure you check for power at the pump while someone is cranking the engine - otherwise no power will be present due to the FPCU's failsafe against running the pump when the engine is off. GD

If you get the right bushing it should only increase it by 1/8" or so - and you can file down the hex end of the bushing to shorten it.... then you can cut off a bit of the end of the hose barb.... you can make it work. I doubt you will find a 3/8" barb fitting. They usually skip that size. Why doesn't autometer include one or have one you can buy that's plastic or something? Another idea - you could make a flush-mount bushing with a bit of brass stock, some drilling, tapping, and threading..... wouldn't be too hard. Just do the ID first - thread the brass 1/8" barb fitting into it, then cut the OD threads with a die. GD

You need a 1/8" x 3/8" NPT bushing. GD

All Subaru's went back to mechanical lifters in '97.... I don't know of any EJ251's or EJ253's with hydro lifters..... At any rate - you adjust them every 105k miles per Subaru (same as the timing belt). They are just like any other rocker-arm solid lift setup - you have a set screw and a square headed adjuster bolt. You loosen the set-screw, adjust the clearance till there is slight drag on your feeler gauge, and lock down the set-screw. Easy. Bucket and Shim, or more recently "Shimless buckets" are only used on the DOHC designs because in them there is one lobe per valve. Not so on the SOHC's where one lobe drives two valves. GD

Yes - when you get new rear's - just use black zip-ties instead of the bolts if you live in an area prone to rust. Running without covers is fine too - your engine is non-interferance and the EJ belts are VERY tough. Exceptionally hard to break. GD

Compare the gear ratios here: http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru%20Transmission%20Chart Yes - you can swap the fork from one to the other and change the '97 to cable. GD

If the rust is truely "light" then it can just be honed and use normal pistons. Subaru engines tend to need special boring aparatus - a bore plate - to prevent them from being bored incorrectly and having the cylinder liners spin after being put into use. GD

I've seen a number of syncro's where the teeth on the ID of the syncro are so bad they are almost flattened out - there is no amount of dressing that will repair that. Just an FYI - they can't *always* be saved. I would just find a used transmission - a 2WD box isn't worth rebuilding. Or convert the car to AWD..... GD

There is no starter relay. There is an interlocking switch on the clutch pedal..... thats it. Probably need new starter contacts. GD

I use WD-40 to lubricate anything in the fuel or ignition system that's rubber - use it for removing and installing fuel lines, and for o-rings, etc. Works great and non-conductive! GD

If, after changing plugs and wires, the codes return - you need to do a valve adjustment, and replace the O2 sensor. Valve adjustment because one has probably never been done so you are at risk of burning an exhaust valve (should do this no matter what actually), and O2 because it can cause a lean condition - especially if it's been exposed to a lot of raw fuel from misfires and is "stuck" on the rich end of it's spectrum. If it returns again - crank posistion sensor could be faulty. This is the sensor used by the ECU to determine misfire's and which cylinder they are occuring on. GD

Amature wireing when you don't have any idea how the system is supposed to operate is always dangerous. You need to immediately correct this - the fuel pump is driven from a Fuel Pump Control Unit (FPCU) that only gives it power for about 2 seconds when the key is first turned on and then only when it gets a tach signal (cranking or running). This prevents the fuel pump from running after an accident. GD

No - not quite correctly. The mounting is different on the headlight buckets. You would have to use the Loyale headlight buckets. GD

I'm not following what you are talking about - what is shuddering exactly? How long does it last, where does it feel like it's coming from? GD

Those two are virtually identical - to the point that the 2.2 ECU/wireing will run a 2.5 and the 2.5 equipment will run a 2.2 - easily. They use the same injectors, and all the sensors on the manifold, etc..... everything is nearly identical between the two. Software might change a bit but not enough for anyone to notice when running a mixed combo. That's why the 2.5 to 2.2 conversion is so popular. The engine just plugs right in without a single wireing change. GD

Mileage has everything to do with driving style and location (city/country/highway/etc). 90k is not too bad if it's all city drving - but if that's the case you don't want to be going with a heavier clutch as the feel will be all wrong and the pedal will be heavy. Besides that the car isn't making enough power to need a heavier clutch. I've put well over 200 HP though the stock (Exedy) 2.5 RS/GT clutch kit and they don't slip at all. For comparison - I have customer that went 254k on the original clutch . So 90k is not a real good run. Personally I stick with the Exedy clutches (Amazon has the best prices usually) as they have perfect OEM feel - in fact they make the OEM clutches. GD

Cut the line so you can work on it on the bench. Find someone with a welder that can weld a large nut to it for turning..... find someone that's studdied in the art of rusty nut/bolt/whatever removal. It will come out - trust me. If you were around here I would have that sucker off in 20 minutes or less. GD

Depends on the length - some EJ's use longer coupler's than other's. You'll have to measure. Spray it down with some penetrant and see if you can free up the rusted joints. GD

The axle nut torque is "as tight as you can get it".... no I'm not kidding at all. Officially it's 150 Ft/lbs, but anywhere between 150 and 250 is good. Make sure the cone washer is PERFECT and that the bellville washer is convex toward the nut. I think Loyale's went back to the manual adjust shoes. There's a slot in the back of the dust sheild where you can insert a screwdriver to adjust the star-wheel. If it won't move you'll have to dissasemble and clean all the bits. If it's got auto-adjusters then you probably need to pull it apart and clean them all up.... or pitch them. They can fail and lockup the wheel. Was a poor system to begin with. GD

He answered you - you need to replace your steering coupler! GD

It's usually the guides that are shot on the DOHC heads. And yes you can re-shim them yourself - but it won't fix the worn guides nor will it bring the valves back into spec - most times they are too far gone to even do a proper grind on. The 25D likes to eat valves - just what they do. So you would not hone the cylinder and replace the rings? How do you expect the rings to seat properly and not use a ton of oil? It's just a bad idea - if you are going into the bottom end to replace pistons then you should be doing everything. Either do it right or don't touch it. I never said more flow was bad - I said it's not needed where this engine makes it's power. The torque cams may increase durration - that I don't know - lift is unchanged. The valve TIMING is altered for more bottom-end power - more air at lower RPM. Thus these cams are the opposite of a turbo engine - they flow big at low RPM and taper off as the RPM increases. After 5500 RPM this build runs out of steam - but that's OK because it's coupled to a close ratio gearset that's been geared down with a low ratio final drive. The DOHC heads flow great up at 6 and 7 thousand - nothing we will ever care to hit. Thus they are useless. Sure you could - and blow the budget doing so. Once again - too expensive to source 253's and 251's. I care nothing for EA82's - engines or body's. I skip that gen completely. Never-the-less.... the EJ251/253 is a fine engine - but again not readily availible and thus too expensive. This has what do to with the current conversation? I've built all kinds of weird combo's as well - not germain to the discussion at hand. You can argue till you are blue in the face - it's not going to change the fact that you can't make the HP this combo makes for the same money. Just not going to happen. GD

Agreed - distributors are BLEH! They don't like water - the stock MPFI on the EJ's is excelent and the only reason people put distributors on them is because they are afraid of a little wireing and afraid of an electronic system they don't understand. GD

The AWD 5MT was used in everything that had a manual transmission (in the US). Gear ratio changes are based on the vehicle power, weight, tire size, and how sporty/economical Subaru wanted that model to be. They are completely variable and transmissions can be found that run the spectrum from short-ratio sports car gear ratios that top out at 120 MPH to ones that are designed for longer ratios that provide better fuel economy. It was a standard platform that was used on all manual transmission Subaru's - you can't really tie it down to the '99 Impreza OBS.... that same basic unit is still being used - it has been almost unchanged since 1990 and it derives it's basic design from the part-time 4WD 5MT's first introduced in 1985. GD

You neglect a couple things - first the timing belt kit for the DOHC heads is about $200, second the DOHC eat valves, valve guides, and stem seals like candy. Plus you will have to do a shim adjustment..... a rebuild on the DOHC heads runs $500 compared to about $175 on the SOHC heads. In either case I AM talking about rebuilt heads. You can't change out the pistons without also changing to the (piston manufacturers) rings and that will require a proper hone for them to seat - which is best done by pulling the short block apart..... which pretty much means it's stupid not to put in bearings. There's also the consideration that the SOHC heads fit better into a lot of the older chassis (EA81's for example can't run the DOHC), and they are MUCH easier to service - plugs, valve adjustment, valve cover gaskets, etc. All around a more pleasant experience. Do what you like - but you will spend more and get the same thing if you use the DOHC heads - they are really designed for forced induction and their greater flow rate simply isn't needed for NA. And flow rate has nothing to do with the cam grind - just because they flow more doesn't mean they do it at the right time. I've built a LOT of EJ engines now. I am well versed in the associated costs and what works and what doesn't work. You go ahead and stick some high-comp pistons in a used block with some used heads and no cams - I'll run circles around you with my SOHC heads GD

I just got a 5 speed '92 wagon for a customer for $500 - owner said the engine might be trash or had some strange sensor issue they couldn't figure out..... it was half dissasembled with the intake manifold in the trunk . Long story short - they had the timing belt on wrong - timed it with the TDC mark on the pulley and not the belt mark on the sprocket . If I wasn't charging labor for this restoration I could easily have it on the road with a complete 60k service for less than $1000. Runs like a dream. They did have LSi's in the 90 to 94's - leather interior, etc. I've seen a very few of them. Depending on condition and location.... A good condition first gen can command as much as $2,000 around here. But that's usually low mileage, etc. Can't find them for much less than $400 to $500 because the junk yards will pay over $300 for one and that route is easier for people to take vs. selling it on craigslist, etc. GD