GeneralDisorder

There would be no room for the "rear" diff to be mounted in the front. Being it would need to go under the transmission.... that results in about a minimum of 8" to the front. Rear could stay stock height I guess if you wanted - sure would look damn funny though GD

Did you replace it with a new one or a used one? What year/model are we talking about. There were some 90's knock sensors that were prone to cracking and were superseded with a new part. Old one's have a grey connector - new one's have a white connector. GD

Correct - and none of the '94 GT's were turbo. They were all non-turbo 5 speed's. GD

First, late 90's and early 2000's are cheap for a reason - they have a bad reputation for blowing head gaskets in the phase I and phase II 2.5 liter engine's. If you do get one, make SURE the head gaskets have already been replaced with the updated versions. I have no clue about the ABS. Although I can tell you that all of the ABS systems I am aware of in the Subaru world were 4 wheel systems. My '91 turbo has one of the early systems (the first actually) and it's a 4 wheel system. You won't find rear drums on a Legacy unless it's a very low end Brighton model or similar. They existed, but it's not common. And even should you run across one that you otherwise like and it has drums - they are easily swapped out for the disc system. There are no lockers available for Subaru diffs - at least not the diffs that would be found in that era of Legacy. There may be some available for the R180's and larger diffs used in the STi's and maybe other applications? There aren't any for the R160 though. What is available is the Limited Slip versions used on some of the WRX's and turbo's of various years. If you swap the diff you have to match the ratio of the one you take out as otherwise it will not be compatible with the transmission. If you are looking for an automatic, watch out for "torque bind". Do a search for it here on the board and you will get an idea of what it is, and what years it mostly affects. If you stick with a manual it won't be an issue. Personally, I would avoid anything with the phase I and II 2.5 - which means some 96's, and most '97 through 2001. Anything before or after that (and some exceptions in the middle that still used the 2.2) is a good choice. The most sought mid 90's Legacy is probably the '96 Legacy Outback. That's after they got the suspension upgrade, and the last year they came with the 2.2. A more reliable car you will not find. If you can stand something a bit older, all the 90 through 94 Legacy's have the 2.2. They are also well-optioned as they were the default flag-ship model of their day - the Loyale's filling in the low-end model lineup. My '91 Turbo Sport Sedan has more power and torque than my GF's 2007 Impreza Outback Sport..... lots of fun. GD

If you aren't willing to install a divorced t-case, then you are stuck with the gearing you have unless you want to spend BIG $$ on an EJ dual range transmission from europe and install 4.11 gears and the low range from the USDM 5 speed D/R (1.59:1). That will only lower your diff ratio from 3.9 to 4.11 though and it would be AWD not 4WD. For running the rear diff in the front with a t-case, 10" of lift is better. 8" is the bare minimum to clear everything but you end up modifying the floor pan to make it work. GD

Transmissions in my u-pull-it yards are $79.99 plus core. On virtually EVERY holiday weekend they run 50% off sales. And there's always a dozen 5 speed D/R cars to choose from among the 5 yards that are part of the "LKQ" chain that runs these deals. After all said and done, it's easily under $100 even with the core and the environmental fee, etc. Reminds me that I need to pick up a couple for my shed GD

Yeah - but there's no confirmation that it WAS a US car. Just like the EA81 touring wagon seen by NVZeno - clearly not a US market vehicle. Service-members often bring stuff like that back from other countries or it comes in from South America or Canada. According to all the sales literature I've ever seen, the EA82 touring wagon was for the '89 model year only. GD

Without knowing more I can't discount that possibility, but from the sounds of it, it just happened out of the blue at 160k.... and I've seen this happen before - I've seen them snap the valve guide casting clean off and bend the valve. It's not a common failure, and I don't know definitively what causes it.... frankly IMO just one more reason not to run the EA82's. Since I stopped running them I've been a much happier person. GD

Touring wagons, in the EA82 body style, were only imported in '89. There was the gen 1 Legacy Turbo Touring Wagons, but those were only made in 93/94. As far as I know, in 90/91/92 there was not a touring wagon option in the US. And no EA82T's of any kind were made after 90. GD

If you want seperate thermoswitches for the fans, that's fine - but where are you going to mount it? I don't like the surface mount style units. I think those are gay. I would use the stock thermoswitch - use it to control a relay that in turn trips on both fans. If you upgrade the alternator it won't have any trouble running both at the same time. Besides - the stock AC equipped EA81's ran both fans with the 50 amp alternators. I have one in my wagon and it runs without issue. The stock thermoswitches are set for 95 C, so 203 F. You want them about 8 to 10 degrees above the thermostat. I doubt your Brat had a "mystery" radiator. All EA81 radiators are two-row units. There was a cap style change in '83 so you may have seen something you didn't recognize. My '83 hatch has a replacement radiator in it with the older style cap and automatic transmission cooler pipe. You just have to know what you are looking at. I don't know of any other model radiator that will easily fit the EA81. GD

Les Schwab GD

I've seen a number of Subaru exhaust failures directly on weld seams like that. I have just clamped them back together on the bench and welded right through the old weld to repair them. I've had header's snap off on both EA81 and EJ22 stock exhausts. In both cases I simply rewelded them at the failure point and have not had an issue. GD

To get it to kick in late like that you would need a 12v delay timer, and a relay.... at least. GD

Parts will be difficult, yes. I would pass on the '81 just because of the EA71 and the lack of a D/R transmission (or even the option without swapping the engine). Externally regulated alternator, engine bay mounted fuel pump (no return line), etc, etc. If you want a hatch, look for an '83 or newer. Easier to find parts for, and capable of accepting the 5 speed, SPFI, all the goodies. An '81 will just be a headache. GD

They are non-vented. Vented cap's went out when the EPA mandated evaporative emissions systems. The tank vents though the charcoal cannister. GD

No - you cannot install them by hand. The way this sort of thing happens though makes it unlikely that a simple repair will do the job. Either the valve stuck in the guide, or the valve seat came out of the head and jammed it open - as a result the rocker arm fell out sideways and probably when the valve finally unstuck itself the rocker arm got caught between the cam and the spring - compressing the spring and allowing the keeper to fall out. It is very likely that the engine will need a new head at this point - assuming no damage to the piston or cylinder occured from whatever jammed the valve. Pull the head - can't hurt to look at this point. GD

On the inboard side the seal rides against the outer joint cup, and on the outboard side it rides on the disc brake hub (the splined part that you slide over the axle splines). It does not touch the actual axle shaft on either side. You probably just haven't realized yet that when you reinstall the hub the space you see now is where the seal surface of the hub will be. You *have* removed the axle in order to replace the inner seals right? Just replacing the outer seals is not very effective. It is usually the inner's that fail. GD

Then shorten the EA82 tie-rods and re-thread them. Easily done with a vice and a die. Check some of the tool dealer's for a proper sized die (being metric it might be a bit obscure). GD

No - there were also Loyale Turbo wagons. I've seen a couple. Don't know about sedan's... GD

They were all turbo as far as I know. Push-button 5 speed's and automatic's I believe. They did not come with the FT4WD D/R w/locker that the RX had. I don't believe they were discontinued because they ran out of RX parts - they were discontinued because their "function" was replaced by the 91 Legacy SS - which became their rally platform till '93 when the Impreza came out.

They were only made in '90 GD

Just change the whole tie rod to an EA81 inner tie rod. They thread on the same and the overall length of the rack's are the same. GD

There is not a seperate coupler really on the 4 speed's like there is on the 5's. Tap the hole's in the sleeve and the shift rod and run a bolt through both of them. I made a post about it at one point - do a search. GD

It is likely fine. The knocking you heard was cylinder detonation due to excessive temperatures. I had the exact same thing happen once about 100 miles after doing a HG job - I had no choice but to drive it till I got to a freeway exit as there was no place to pull out. By the time I got it parked it would only go about 15 MPH under full throttle. I replaced the hose, filled it with coolant, and ran the engine for another 20,000 miles before I pulled it for an overhaul. It suffered seemingly no damage at all - fortunately these engines are almost as much oil and air cooled as they are water cooled so to some extent the oil will dissipate the heat from the bearing surfaces and the block being aluminum helps to dissipate it as well. If it had been an EA82 you would be doing HG's almost for certain. This is exactly why I avoid that engine. GD

Heater core hose will not withstand motor oil and gasses. If you need specific types of hose, you need to call someone that does exclusively hoses and fittings. Automotive parts places aren't going to have specialty hose types. You need high temp/oil rated hose for PCV. GD