GeneralDisorder

Nothing is welded - it all unbolts just as you surmise. Should be simple if both are 2WD. Although personally I would just swap the trailing arms and the shocks. This gives the opportunity to go through the brakes - the shoes are very inexpensive, and it would be a shame not to since you have to bleed the brakes anyway. GD

If the "new" one's core like that in a short time then the drive gear inside the transmission is shot. It's better to just get a used transmission if that happens. GD

The cables are dry-lubricated with a soap-like compound inside the sheath as well as an inner plastic core. What happens when the cable loses lubrication is it starts to eat into that plastic tubing and eventually it will eat it's way through to the steel braiding in the cable sheath. At some point it will eat through enough of the cable and will snap. WD-40 is only a temporary lubricant - it will evaporate away. You could try some moly fortified lubricant spray - like the stuff used on bike chains. But ultimately it's not worth the time for a cable that cost's less than $20 from the dealer and takes about a half hour to install. GD

If it's good quality tape and the surface was clean it might hold. It also might only partially hold and you may end up with bleeding later - I would remask it personally. I'll be interested to see how your attempt turns out from a beginner standpoint. This method works great if you do it right it just takes some old-world techniques that aren't real common anymore. GD

' There are manual 5 speed's - they are All-Wheel-Drive, not 4 wheel drive, and they are not dual-range. There are several folks on here that make adaptor plates to adapt the EJ22 to the 5 speed D/R or the 4 speed D/R such as you have in the hatch. It requires some swapping of clutch parts for the 4 speed and a redrilled EA82 flywheel to mount on the EJ22 crank nose. Cost is around $200 for the adaptor and having the flywheel redrilled (after you obtain one). GD

You should be able to reach up inside with the wheel removed and get some access - not sure it will be enough but it's worth a try. And those inner plastic covers are annoying anyway. GD

I want to say yes but I'm not entirely sure. I did one a long, long time ago. The fender's come off easy though and it's always nice to clean behind the fender where debris collects - bottom-right, next to the door jam. GD

Your jetting may be a bit lean also - that's leaner than I run at sea level anyway - but at 5,000 it might be alright. For reference, I run: 140/140 mains 170/160 air correctors 50 idle jet(s) I verified these jets with a wideband O2 sensor and they are very well suited to the EA81. Excelent power when you need it and nice and lean in the part-throttle cruise with no hessitation issues anywhere in the band. In the case of jetting - Redline did a good job picking jets for the kit as I have never had a need to change them. GD

Rereading your post, and considering what you have done.... My money is on a severely restricted exhaust. I'm guessing that your catalytic converter has imploded (as they often do) and in your case is clogging up the discharge end of the cat housing or further up inside the muffler or something. It's worth the time to pull down the y-pipe. Remove the heat shield from the cat, cut a square out of the cat housing with a cut-off-wheel in a die grinder and see what it looks like. If you are lucky the clog is in there and will be easily cleared. Then you just weld the sqaure bit back in place (welds like butter - the cat is stainless!) and put the heat sheild back on - no one is the wiser and if you still need a cat to pass emissions put one of the ebay models in the mid-pipe. Here's what I mean (from my '83 hatch): In this first pic - be mindful that you are seeing EXACTLY what I saw when I opened it. This was untouched by human hands since 1983 - I cut it open right before taking this series of pics (I had previously welded the passenger side runner where it cracked clean through, but never opened the cat - you can see my weld in the pic): In the case of my hatch it wasn't enough of a blockage to cause a severe loss of power - there was some loss of power but more problematic was the loss of freeway mileage - I gained about 3 MPG by clearing that out. Your's may be worse and I could easily see it causeing a lack of power. Mine was largely burned away leaving only the metal bits - but wadded up like that and stuffed into the cat dsicharge there was very little flow and it was causing a lot of backpressure. I too went round and round looking for the answer - decided it had to be something I couldn't see and pulled the y-pipe for an inspect. GD

Better to get a used header probably. For starters the "places" that would do such a thing.... well.... aren't the places I would want doing it if you know what I mean. Welding sheet metal is not easy and the heat sheild can't be "peeled" - it has to be cut away in sections (sometimes three or four peices), the leak repaired, and then the heat sheild carefully peiced back together. I just did it for an EJ22 header that was cracked right at the bend under the driver's side head. No big deal for me personally, but I have a lot of welding experience and some with sheet goods as well. Exhaust shops are (mostly) the last place on earth I would go to find a decent welder Also, welding on it will cause work-hardening of the steel in the header - it will probably crack again right next to the weld. The only way to insure that doesn't happen would be to anneal that whole section to releive all the stress and work hardening of the welding process. What I'm telling you is that you should take Rob up on his offer of a solid used header - a proper repair to the one you have would cost more than what he will charge you and you are assured that you will only be R&R'ing the thing one time. GD

I though that as well - till I parted out a 3AT wagon - a 93 Loyale if I'm not mistaken... it was a 3.9 and I drove it home so I know it wasn't swapped at some point. I remember specifically because SoobGoob and I swapped in a 5 speed D/R and we were assuming we would have to swap the diff but were pleasantly surprised that it was also a 3.9. And that's how I ended up with a spare 3.9 open diff in my shed..... not something I would ever buy but I can't throw away free parts. IIRC that FT4WD Turbo sedan you and I parted out was a 3.7 though so I think you are right there - at least as far as the EA bell-housing 4EAT's go. GD

The EJ22 would have a 25 spline inner joint for the CV axles on the transmission. You just use the EA81 axles and swap out the inner joint for one from a 2WD legacy axle I believe. The engine cross-member needs the holes for the motor mounts slotted outward about 1/2". The tranny cross-member has to be modified to accept the EJ tranny - just some welding and fitting. Not a huge deal. Mechanically it can work - electrical is the biggest hurdle, and really that's not all that hard either. GD

Only the Renault 5 "LeCar" was marketed here in the US by AMC back in the 70's So unfortunately (although those are really neat looking) there aren't any in the states. But if you want to talk overseas stuff - there's tons available from Subaru in Germany, Japan, and the UK that weren't available here - better looking options too. GD

It is not your issue. In fact I would guess that the *majority* of carbed Subaru's still on the road have bad vacuum advance pots - I've owned and driven several that never worked. You will notice a slight lack of performance from a bad vac can, but ultimately at WOT the engine isn't using the vacuum advance - it's only used for acceleration and part throttle cruise. GD

Recheck the intake manifold gasket - good chance you used an inferior aftermarket gasket and improperly installed it. Only 12 ft/lbs on the three bolts, and NEVER use an aftermarket cardboard gasket. The OEM gaskets are like a head gasket - graphite inpregnated metal. GD

Actually the bolt pattern is not evenly spaced. The flywheel can only bolt on one way. But to answer your question more in-depth - the balance indexing is done with the pressure plate. The flywheel and the pressure plate are both supposed to be stamped with balanceing marks that are (according to the FSM) supposed to be placed between 120 and 180 degrees apart (IIRC). The problem is that many times the marks are ground off when the flywheel's are resurfaced and most of the pressure plate's sold by aftermarket parts dealers don't even have them. In practice it rarely makes a difference. I have never had to take one back apart due to vibration. Theoretically it could happen according to the FSM's, but I've never seen it. Seats (in good condition) for EA81's are difficult to source. EA82 seats (the '85 to '89 body style) are easier to find in decent shape - those cars are more plentiful in the yards. You have to make some brackets from flat bar and weld them to the bottom of the seats to mount the older style rails as they are a bit over 1" farther apart on the newer seats. They fit fine otherwise though. I have set installed in my hatch if you would like to have a look. How's about a junk yard run? GD

Define "beast" please. Be specifc. It will never sound like a WRX - it's not a Turbo. Do yourself a favor and leave it be. Anything you do would have to be custom as there are no "aftermarket" exhaust systems available for the EA82's. Also larger diameter will only hurt your performance as you will destroy your scavenging. As it is the engine has 90 HP. Don't make it any worse. Junk yard or the dealership. As above - there are no aftermarket parts available for your body style. Others have already told you the issue here - your misconception of the lug pattern. 4x140mm is basically an impossible lug pattern. At the risk of sounding like a broken reccord.... it would be cost prohibitive to put anything "beefy" into it. You are looking at about $750 to $1000 to install even a non-turbo EJ22 - that's only the cost of the parts - you perform all the labor. That's likely more than the car is worth and in fact will destroy any remaining appeal it has to nearly all of the used car market - an engine swapped Loyale is worth basically nothing - it's a big fat "unknown" to most buyers - people tend to shy away from stuff like that. Except people on this board and even they would probably not want some car that was someone's first project-mobile. Clearly non-sequitur to your question so I'm not seeing the relevance to your post. Advice (that you won't listen to): Leave it stock and love it for what it is - don't hate it for what it will never be. Find happiness in tinkering with something that's worth your time. Better to sell the Loyale (bone stock) for $1500 and buy a legacy or some other brand/model entirely that has what you want already and/or has real potential - the Loyale has very little potential and what it does have takes quite a bit of experience, time, money, and parts to bring out. I doubt you have many of these. GD

Yes - I am still looking. I'll for sure grab you one when I'm at the yard this weekend. GD

The rack shouldn't matter. That is only the steering link - it cannot cause a vibration like that as it does not rotate or change speeds with increased MPH. Maybe if the inner tie-rods or the tie-rod ends were worn.... but movement in the rack itself will only cause jinky steering (loose maybe). I haven't read all the posts - did you have them rebalance the wheels? Have you tried putting the rear wheels in the front and maybe also switching them side-to-side? GD

As for the idle speed - is that the only problem? Clean the MAF just to be sure - it might be dirty and causing a lean mixture. Also check the CTS resistance and see if it's reporting a correct temp to the ECU. GD

You can't disconnect coolant from under the carb. The coolant cross-over is inside the manifold and is needed to pass coolant from the drivers side head to the passengers side head. GD

Have you tried a different radiator? It may just not have enough flow anymore. Cold spots will only show up on severely clogged radiators and the EA82 radiators are already undersized. You are telling me that it only overheats under a load - that's classic symptom of poor flow through your radiator. It simply cannot reject enough heat. GD

Your clutch cable is about to snap. The seal on the cable sheath has been comprimised and the cable had probably been invaded by water and who-know's what else. It will wear through the sheath, bind, and snap the cable. Replacing the cable is your only option. And make sure the end on the transmission side is well lubricated with vasoline to keep the water and mud out of the cable. As far as the running of the engine - what do you have? Carb or SPFI? GD

What "problem" do you think is related to the accelerator pump and why? The boot really does nothing other than keeping crap out of the plunger - as you noted. Virtually every single one I've seen has been cracked or torn - didn't make a bit of difference. If you are having off-idle hessitation it's likely worn throttle shafts or a vacuum leak. I have never had an accelerator pump on these cause any kind of trouble. To rebuild the pump, you need to buy a kit and remove the top of the carb. At that point you may as well remove the carb, soak it properly, and rebuild the whole thing. Check you throttle-base as they are often worn out. Rebuilding the pump basically means replacing the plunger with it's rubber pump seal, and the boot. The rest of the pump is a tiny plastic check ball and a spring. GD

How long did it "run fine" after doing the timing belt? Are there any codes stored in the ECU? Your fuel pressure sound fine. The difference between what I've typically seen on a gauge (~20) and what you are reading is pretty insignificant and could easily be due to gauge inaccuracy. If anything you could swap in a used regulator and see if it changes, but as you noted that it rises when dead-headed, the pump is obviously capable of more than is required of it. Typically I've found they run about 50 psi dead-head pressure. GD