GeneralDisorder

Depends on how bad the O2 sensor is. I had one so bad on a feedback carbed EA81 that it would refuse to idle once warm. You had to disconnector the O2. The dealership people don't understand the feedback carbs. The duty solenoids have quite an operational range with regard to mixture settings - the ECU bases the duty cycle on all the sensors - CTS, O2, Manifold pressure. Best bet is to yank that sucker off and install either a non-feedback setup, or a Weber. GD

Well - you aren't pumping more juice unless you are drawing more juice than the factory accesories. An alternator capable of 100 amps (and that's not an idle figure BTW - it's more like 30 amps at idle, and 100 amps at 4,000 RPM. But those numbers are what it CAN put out. Not what it IS putting out. That depends on what you hook up to it. An 86 Maxima alt is 90 amp, bolts right up, and cost about the same... I would return that huge GM thing if it were me. I know folks that have had bad luck with those beasts. Just using the fusible link box from an 82 to 84 EA81 will net you NO ability to run anything other than the stock accesories. The links are not sized for anything above their stock draw. You will need extra fusible link(s) for more accesories, and you'll need another fuse panel to feed with the new link. EA82 fusible link boxes have 4 posistions . You will need to properly size the links you use to the circuits they feed in your 81. Check the wireing diagrams and see what the circuits look like and what Subaru used for the original links. It very easily could be different than the links in the box you have. As for the wireing - why would you reattach the white wire going to the external VR? You are removing the external VR, so you should be able to leave that disconnected. In addition to the 6 gauge wire for the alternator output, you will also need a junction sensor wire going to the fusible link junction so the internal VR can regulate the voltage at the junction. The third wire off the alt goes to the charge indicator light in the gauge cluster (probably one of the wires from the external VR plug. GD

I'm aware of that, yes. I said with "very few" mods. IC, increase boost a bit, and turbo-back 3" will get you to 200 without doing anything fueling wise. My point was that for $500 in mods, you can hit a HP rating with the EJ22T that is near impossible with an EA82T. Of course you are starting with a 160 HP 2.2 vs. a 115 HP 1.8. The big difference is that the EJ22T was much more detuned than the EA82T was - out of the box. And to use the STi injectors you need the fuel rail from a 92 - 94 N/A EJ22 GD

There's folks with modded 22T's running in the high 12's. With very few mods you can put out 200 crank HP. GD

I'll make a test of the Hitachi I have when I get a chance and report back to you. Your discrepency may be due to the coil - is it original? If it's aftermarket or old there's a good chance the resistance isn't the same as it's supposed to be for OEM. GD

Lookup the alternator for an '86 Nissan Maxima GD

My FSM is extremely confusing on this subject. In the specifications section there is a line for "series resistance of pickup coil" - with an Ohm symbol. But in the data column there is only a reference to the models used "4WD: CIT-79, Other: K-31".... which is NOT an ohm value. There is absolutely nothing in the distributor section, nor in the ignition troubleshooting section about either pickup coil. The troublshooting tests everything BUT the disty and then concludes it must be bad if it still doesn't work However - the fact that it says "series resistance" makes me beleive you are testing it wrong. I'm pretty sure it has to remain connected to the coil while you test it - thus your testing with the coil removed is giving the wrong readings. At least that's my hypothesis from the data currently availible to me. GD

Let me check the FSM.... GD

You could use a wideband sensor that can mimick the output of a narrow-band sensor. Many of the wideband kits availible can do this. I would think that should be about the best narrow-band output you could get and you have the added benefit of a wideband for your other tuning needs. I got the wideband from NGK - I haven't installed it yet but I like what I've seen of it so far (sitting in the box still ). It has the narrow-band output so you don't have to add a second O2 bung to cars that require a narrow-band input to their ECU. GD

Intresting that they rated it at 26 MPG rather than a city/highway rating.... I suppose that's about accurate though. GD

You'll never get every last drop out of an engine. The "capacity" is for a brand new engine or a rebuild where there is NO oil present. There's going to be residual oil in the pan that won't drain, and there's going to be some in the valve area's, etc. Not to mention coating virtually every surface in the engine. Start off with 4 quarts - fill the filter till the element is saturated to prevent oil starvation when starting. Then fill the crankcase till it comes up to the proper level on the dipstick - NO MORE. Stop when it's full - not when you have used up all the oil - check the reading often after the 3rd quart. GD

+1 for changing your range. GD

I always install the disty with the flywheel at 8 BTDC. Pointing it at the #1 tower *by eye* I can install a distributor within a degree of 8. Last one I did (two days ago) was 8.5 when I started it. 0 or 8 - doesn't really matter. Using 8 just skips a step and gets you very close to spec if you don't happen to have a light. Valuable skill if you off-road, etc. I don't carry a timing light on me.... GD

Straight swap - the tranny's are identical for the puposes of your swap. Don't forget to swap the torque converter along with the tranny and FLUSH, FLUSH, FLUSH that tranny cooler passage in the radiator - it may have chunks of old auto tranny in it. Use a good fast-evaporating degreaser, and use at least a whole can on the lines and cooler line through the radiator. In fact it wouldn't be a bad idea to install a seperate tranny oil cooler and just forget about the one through the radiator. The 3AT's aren't renown for their reliabilty, but you'll increase it's lifespan if you do regular oil changes and add a cooler to extend the life of the oil. GD

I've blown enough stock one's to know better. You are an exception Rob - you have more patience than...... anyone I can think of at the moment. How many times has that engine been out!?! And all that work for 15 HP..... you and I both know you could have done an EJ22 swap several times over for what you have into the RX - especially considering your labor - and have the same HP without a turbo at all. GD

The whole mechanism is a crap shoot. Best to yank the seat out and R&R everything you see. There's some plastic bushings and stuff in there, and the screws that hold the flip-forward spring mechanism to the upper's and lower's come loose. After bouncing around off-road in stock EA81 seats for a while, I've broken at least 3 or 4 drivers side rails. I usually break the tab off that anchors them to the floor. I welded the last one with a reinforcing strip, and only suceeded in bending the actual track grooves in the slider mechanism. The whole mess is..... a mess. Needs to be redone in thick stainless GD

EA82 I'm assuming? Two bolts - there's an o-ring on the shaft that keeps the PCV system sealed and keeps oil from wicking up the disty shaft. But that's it. Hammer On! GD

At least save what parts you can - glass for instance would be a good keeper. GD

Then why ask us? If you have searched you know what the answers will be. Building turbo engines is well documented throughout the universe. You'll run into the same problems that everyone else has - you'll be frustrated at the failures, and ultimately the whole shebang will end up in a scrap yard. Take a look at my join date - don't you suppose I've seen this a few times? And beleive me - there's folks that have tried that are at least as intelligent as you seem to be - probably a few that are more so. You asked - so that's the look into my crystal ball. Ask around after how often I'm wrong Yeah - it's a dead horse. But I beat on it anyway. When will I learn? GD

The EA82T's have severe limitations that prevent modding to any great extent: 1. Exhaust port near the coolant jacket is very thin. EGT must be maintained to extremely precise tollerances to prevent head cracking. 2. Head gasket design sucks. New/copper could be obtained at not-unreasonable prices but..... 3. The stock head "bolt" system is not sufficient to apply the neccesary torque to use cometic or copper gaskets etc. The cost of ARP studs or similar is outragous due to the thread size and pitch being a very strange/uncommon type. 4. To use either of these options effectively would require the block to be o-ringed. Also not cheap. 5. The head quench design limits compression - stock is only 7.7:1. Raising it will only put you into severe pre-det land. 6. 2 Valves per cylinder, and not very big at that. Poor flow. 7. Poor stock cooling system - both in terms of the glycol system, and the lack of an oil cooler, and poor oil pump performance. In order to fix any/all of these problems would require MUCH more money than a coventional WRX swap. It's a waste of time and energy to mess with the EA82T's. They have enough problems in stock form - modifying them will only make them worse. GD

EGR's open on "late ported vacuum" - starting at around 2000 RPM or higher. They do not open at idle. You have it all backwards. GD

There are NO BEARINGS on carbed distributors. The bushing must be BORED out. It's not something you can do without machine tools. Don't make me post pictures.... GD

Too much heat and cheap axle boots. Get some silicone boots if you really want to have them last. But your mixture settings are probably out of whack or something. GD

Subaru's don't use a ballast resistor in their hall-effect distributors. The module contains all the elements required for the electronics to function internally. A ballast resistor is needed on some older points/condensor style distributors because the coil is designed to operate at less than 12 volts, or EXACTLY 12 volts - as would be present durring cranking prior to the engine running (the resistor is bypassed for cranking). When the engine starts and the alternator pushes the system voltage higher than 12, the resistor keeps the voltage to the coil within it's operating range. So you neither have, nor require this device as the electronic ignition can operate at higher voltages, and thus spark power while cranking is not an issue. The coil is designed to handle a broader range of voltages. If the coil they are handing you claims it needs one then I wouldn't buy it. GD

All we are really concerned with for the ignition module is the primary resistance - that affects how much voltage the transistors in the module have to "switch" on and off. Lower resistance in the primary means more voltage to the module. Thus a Hitachi coil could harm an ND distributor, but it probably wouldn't cause damage the other way around (ND coil with Hitachi disty). Sadly, the "other way" isn't the one most people on here have gone. The 2WD advance myth has seen to that. The accell coil is better suited to the ND distributor than either the Hitachi or the MSD, but their quality of late is nothing short of ghastly. Others on here have been stranded due to failed accell coils. So while they won't hurt the module, they may leave you just as stranded. They moved their factory to Mexico a couple years ago and since then they have been crap. Same with the low end MSD's. The secondary coil resistance governs, to a large extent, how hot the spark will be. But it's a ratio of turns, not the resistance, that is the real specification that matters. Generally though, more turns equals higher resistance so if you don't have a ratio specification, then resistance is the next best thing. GD