GeneralDisorder

It's been done. Axles aren't impossible if you have skills with metal. The hydro clutch swap is actually worse than the axle IMO. Although the early legacy trannies are cable if you aren't going to run much in the way of HP above a stock phase 1 EJ22..... Talk to Rguyver - Reagan has a complete WRX drivetrain in his Brat. GD

Lets see..... 1. Expensive. (you need more than just the tank too). 2. Small. 3. Smelly (inside the cabin on a hatchback). 4. Inconveient - takes up cargo space, have to open the hatch to fill it, etc. Not to mention there's just no need. You can make a surge tank from some parts out of home depot for like $30. I WILL be using a fuel cell eventually on my Hatch - but it's a totally different animal. The only real good reason is to prevent stuff from smacking into the tank off-road - but unless you are going with a t-case lift you won't be getting into situations where that's really a problem. Plus in my case I'm removing the rear seats entirely for extra space and I'm going to sink the floor down where the existing tank is located.... there's a time and a place for fuel cell's, but not on a rig like his. GD

Loyale is different. You don't have to touch the evap core. My former comments were before the post was edited to reflect Loyale instead of Legacy. It's still an 8 hour job, but it's easier than a Legacy. It's a lot easier to take the Loyale's apart. GD

Last year for carbs was 87. Either you have SPFI, it's a swap of some kind, or it's not an 88. Might be an RX, but then again it's probably not. There were non-RX turbo coupe's made. If it's white with the D/R 5 speed and diff-lock then it's probably an RX or close to one. Turbo's use dual port heads so you would have to swap the heads, cams, and the entire electrical system. Also upgrade the fuel system, and change the fuel tank to a baffled tank if you really do have a carbed wagon. Driveshaft is two-peice and the rear section is the same. You will have to change to the 5 speed front section. The rest should be similar. You will have to bypass the neutral safety switch by jumpering the terminals in the plug that goes to the old auto shifter. . More work that you realize. Too much to be worth it really. Yes. Heh. Well, if it's something you really, really want..... it can be done. But it's not worth it for an EA82 wagon.... IMO. Swaps of this magnitude are rarely a good idea. You are basically talking about gutting both cars and building a whole new one using all the business end of one, and the body of the other. HUGE job. Do so searches on the subject. GD

It's often the seals that go first - if they go unoticed then the bearings go. You have probably caught it prior to bearing failure. There are two weep holes - one on the top of the pump, and one on the bottom. The top one never leaks - it's always the bottom one. Remove the timing belt covers and inspect the pump housing for evidence if coolant tracking/caking around the hole. Also check the heater core bypass hose on top of the pump. The nipple on the pump, and especially the one on the bypass tube that it connects to like to rot out, and people neglect to change this hose, or to change the cooant that protects against corrosion. I've seen them leak, and I've seen them blow out. Be sure to change it if you determine the pump is bad. GD

Tons of places - everywhere from Isreal to Barbados to the Netherlands.... Usually it was the EA71's that got put into the EA82 body though, not the EA81. I say it was most likely a swap. There's ways to tell, but they are difficult to explain. I'm sure if I saw it in person I could tell withing a few minutes if it was stock in that car or not. Also if it wasn't a US car it would be labled as a Leone rather than a GL/DL. GD

Nope. Both are different. The Legacy core is VERY different. The XT core is more similar I think, but they don't interchange. I've installed a couple used EA82 core's - I wouldn't be to worried about those - they are brass. Unlike the legacy core that is all aluminium. GD

Only if it's an XT, a Turbo, or an '85 model year. Otherwise it would be SPFI. The cap thing is true, but all the distributors are pin-compatible if you swap the correct plug on. You just have to stay hot-wire to hot-wire, and flapper to flapper MAF style. GD

You're grounded! That's a mess Seriously - time to invest in some plastic condiut. I see butt splices - didn't your mommy teach you how to solder and heat shrink? Here's a tip - put some RTV on the connection right before you heat shrink it. GD

8 to 10 hours. If you have A/C all the books call for removal of the evap core (losing the charge, etc) as well. I found that with some difficulty I was able to squeeze the heater core box out by undoing all the AC lines in the engine bay and pulling the evap core away from the firewall as much as possible. It's tricky, but it CAN be done. I just did the core replacement on my 91 SS a couple months ago. $196 for the core (wholesale) - ouch! I wouldn't install a used one - takes too long to pull them from a yard, and you don't have any idea of the condition of it. They are aluminium and pretty fragile. My 91 had a major malfunction of the cooling system (previous owner) that took out the engine, radiator, and burst the core along the bottom tank seam. This should also be in the "new gen" forum. GD

Sadly she's not goin for it . But I'll be needing your head and cam services on my EJ22T soon enough. And an EA81 I'm building. So all is not lost. Good luck - someone will want this. GD

Yes. Just get an L with the phase II EJ22, and install the Outback struts and springs. The difference in power is only 18 HP. 142 for the 22, and 160 for the 25. You won't notice it all that much. The phase I EJ25 is a headache of an engine. You can't even be sure it's good with a test drive. There's a guy at my work that has one that overheats regularly about once a month due to coolant level. So you may drive it and it's fine - only to find out a month later you got taken. GD

Ah yes - now that I see the pics I see your's are 80-82 seats. That would explain it. 83+ have the notches and the release button. Glad you got it fixed, and I like the seat covers - wish I could find some like that for my hatch. GD

4EAT's computer requires input from the 4 wire turbo TPS switch. Something your SPFI can not provide. Could it be made to work? Probably. Is it cost/time effective to do so? No way. Swap it to a 5 speed - mileage, power, and sanity return almost immediately. GD

All EA series FI distributors are the same across similar MAF types. IE - Hot-Wire uses one type of distributor, and Flapper Door uses another. Turbo or Non-Turbo have nothing to do with it other than the wireing connector. They are all 100% interchangable except for the EA81T uses a slightly different housing and drive gear. GD

Hhhhmmmm. I seem to remember them having a release slider. But perhaps not all of them did. You might have to just pull harder. GD

Same button used to adjust them. Just pull straight up till they come off. GD

Be my guest. EA82's are a dime a dozen. Loyales are especially common, and especially low end. There's not a single part on them I want. You'll only be hurting yourself. GD

Step back for a moment - you are talking about spending $1,000+ on an 88!? Get a Legacy if you can afford that. Otherwise just reseal the engine you have. The EA82 is good to 300k if you maintain it. GD

What type of EA81 seat? I assume you mean the style with the adjustable head rests? Push the release button and pull them out. GD

1. But a cheap timing light. 2. Do a search for "TDC" - on here, on google, wherever. 3. Do more searches on timing, engine timing, timing adjustment, etc. 4. Feel good about helping yourself. GD

THIS THREAD IS A YEAR OLD GD

Reagan's work is impressive - his EJ/EA adaptor plates are beutiful. GD

That's nice and all, but EA81 land doesn't have timing belts. GD

Toyed!?! Seems?! Yes - everything is wrong with that. You need a timing light, and some clue as to what you are doing. You don't adjust timing by the stars or with tea leaves. GD