GeneralDisorder

I would run it. As long as it doesn't touch the gasket it should be fine. This isn't a race engine so this "hot spot" theory is horse puckey. If it was turbo, or a high RPM engine..... maybe. But probably not even then. Lots of combustion chambers are not polished in regular street engines. Fixing it would cause more harm than good. Take a polishing stone and smooth out the high spots if there are any. GD

Could be an EA81 backing plate with manual adjuster too. It's really hard to tell from the pictures. Couldn't be a 2WD spindle in a 4WD arm as the spindles are WAY different and not interchangable. GD

Depends on the condition of the wheel bearings if you need more than the spindle or not. As for a source - junk yard, or a member on here. They just drive the spindle out of the bearings with a dead blow or brass/copper hammer. Should not be much more than $10 - $20 at the junk yard, or ~$50 if you want the whole control arm/hub complete with bearings (easier to install). New rear bearings run about $50 a side. So unless you plan to reuse the bearings - which I probably wouldn't, but have in the past due to monetary conditions..... probably about a $10 fix if you just replace the spindle, or about a $50 - $75 fix if you replace the control arm, or install new bearings. By far the best way would be to get a used spindle, clean it up, and install new bearings. GD

You just need to find a good supplier of metric fasteners. Bolts are what's known as "bulk shop supply" and are not generally ordered. Although they do have part numbers most of the time. Find one that fits and has enough thread engagement (generally 1.5x the width of the fastener). GD

EJ22 ECU's are not the same. But EJ22T ECU's are. MT and AT used the same ECU for the T's. GD

You need the spindle - looks like the splined portion has sheared away. Take it apart and you will see. GD

Junk yard, but most likely even if you find one that isn't cracked it still won't operate correctly. You will have to dissasemble it to see exactly how it works and come up with a suitable replacement that performs the same function. I would guess that it's designed to open the emulsion tube vents(?) to a filtered air supply when the engine reaches a specific operating temperature. You could do the same thing with a few regular vacuum valves by T'ing them together in the neccesary orientation. But really this is all acedeminc. You aren't going to notice a bit of difference doing all this work vs. just leaving the thing out, and leaving the emulsion tube vents open to the filtered air supply line. At least Skip's scan gives you an idea what to block and what to route to filtered air. You have to stop thinking like you are - you have a burning desire to replace this silly plastic peice because you have no faith in your own abilities to figure out what it's purpose is, decide if it's right for YOU, and then either eliminate it or find a suitable alternative. It's depressing to see such narrow-mindedness. Go forth and be inventive. Just because it came that way doesn't mean it has to be put back to "stock". Find you own "stock". GD

Possibly. Some EA81's didn't use the ASV spacers. Others had only one. Could be an engine from a car that only had a single spacer. Or could be a head from one. No way to tell at this point. Yep - such is often the case with 20 year old cars. Many cooks with their hand in the stew. My co-worker just found the timing off on his Samuri. Drove it for a year with the valve timing off a tooth. PO's (previous owners) suck. GD

There's mine... http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html At the bottom is a link to download Snowman's original write up which was geared to EA82's specifically. Mine is for EA81's. You'll need some info from both given the nature of your setup. GD

No - that's not factory. I've never seen shoddy assembly of an 80's Subaru. These were built entirely in Japan, and the Japanese people have an extremely strong work ethic. Their workers are very well paid, have many benefits, and strong profit sharing. Thus the reputation of Japanese cars. This was even more true in the 70's and 80's than it is today. This isn't China, Taiwan, or Korea we are talking about here - Japan is very much a first world nation, and they regard their employment as part of their "honor" and in many cases it's more important than their family. Be careful who's car's you insult around here. I'm not Japanese, but I know a few, and that kind of talk can be taken as an insult in some circles. Japanese auto workers are better paid than american auto workers if you take into acount their benefits and profit sharing. The gasket for the intermediate (ASV) plate is just a ring that fits into the groove on the top of the plate between it and the head. GD

Looks like some sort of valve to allow vacuum to draw in vapor from the charcoal canister - like a fresh air vent that only opens when the engine is running. Probably operates of a thermo-vac valve or the like. Junk it and cap the lines. You don't need it. P.S. not much of a shop if they can't figure out what it does. It's a simple matter of tracing the lines, putting some vacuum and pressure to it and seeing what happens. They could have at least figured out what it was for. Some people just shouldn't wrench at all GD

Big radiator cap means it's pre-'83. That tank style looks like a Gen 1 to me. So it's likely '79 or older. Post the pics in the Historic forum and you might get someone that know's exacly what it's for. GD

I ran into the same thing - very expensive gauges that only do one thing, but look flashy doing it. I don't need flashy, and I don't need the price of flashy either. I guess we are the only one's that see the value in it though!? Or perhaps were amongst a very small few that understand what it does and the value of it's programability.... Perhaps we'll never know. I think I'm going to get two of them and monitor each bank for EGT on my 91 SS. And perhaps a third as a boost monitor, and maybe a fourth for?? Any sugestions Skip? I like the red LED readout - reminds me of the panel from the Delorean in Back to the Future. Very 80's.... I'm thinking a panel of 4 of them together with a couple switches to switch inputs on some of them that either read similarly configured sensors, or just program them each time. I think it will look neat below the radio in my SS. GD

We have seen pictures before. Nice to know they weren't photo-shopped though. GD

If they heli-coiled them back to the stock size, you can oversize them to 7/16x14 or 7/16x20 without using a heli-coil, or if they are really far out of spec you can heli-coil them to 7/16 and you shouldn't have any trouble. Generally this doesn't even require enlarging the manifold holes. Make sure you buy/make a bottoming tap to get the last few threads as these holes are not real deep. I would also remove those remaining studs, wire wheel everything that's going back together and use plenty of anti-seize. While you have the studs out, use a sanding block and some 300 grit to clean up that mating surface and see what you really have there. The gaskets will handle quite a bit. The proper gasket for those plates is a thin 3/16" or so ring of cardboard coated metal....dealer obviously. GD

Yeah - probably an EA81 rotor. Try ordering for an 89, or going to another store. GD

Yep - they are virtually indistiguishable. There's a slight difference in the way the heat shield is welded on, but other than that they are the same. Word is that when the supply of 22T pipe's runs out the part number will be superceded by the STi part number. GD

Found these on eBay - Inexpensive, and can monitor a multitude of signals. The seller on eBay seems to be the manufacturer of these. Here's the web site: http://auberins.com/ Specifically, this device: http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=19 And the eBay auction (comes with the thermocouple for EGT). http://cgi.ebay.com/DIGITAL-EGT-THERMOMETER-PYROMETER-W-Probe_W0QQitemZ190195613189QQihZ009QQcategoryZ50974QQcmdZViewItem Pretty neat little gadget as it's programmable and can be reconfigured for a bunch of different sensors, and can interpret their output's however you like. It works with GM MAP sensors, etc. I'll give a review when I get mine and try it out. The feedback on ebay seems very positive, and the price is quite good if it does all it says. GD

Your question is WAY too vague. You will likely need to look at an 84 FSM to figure out the vacuum routing and where the orifices go for your specific configuration (feedback/non, MT/auto, etc). GD

The problem is they are too large generally. They slow down the exhaust stream so the turbo spool is poor. Larger is not always better. The smaller pipe speeds up flow, and the turbine helps to extract it. They work together, and AFAIC, the aftermarket units are mostly bunk unless you get into extremely large turbo's (which generally spool like old people ____ anyway). I agree that the catted pipe is a bad idea. But the STi/22T unit is not catted, and it's very well made with built-in heat shields. GD

Rarely do the ign. switches fail on EA81's. That's a classic EA82 problem. The EA81 switches suffer from other ailments - some you have to not turn quite as far as another poster above noted. Some you have to pull the key out about 1/16" before they will turn. And sometimes the pink connector for the switch gets hot and burns the plastic. But the EA82 classic bad switch or bad harness is rare - at least I haven't seen it on the dozen or more I've owned. GD

I didn't say anything about catted up-pipe's. I said the STi uses the same pipe as the 22T's, and that aftermarket units don't generally stack up to the quality of those units. Nor is a larger pipe any more condusive to performance. IE: if I were going to replace the catted pipe, I would replace it with the STi/22T unit, rather than aftermarket. And if he has access to one, he should consider replacing the cobb unit that's in it now. I've not yet been conviced of the benefits of any of these. My other important point is that the stock headers are very durrable, flow very well, and since it all must flow through the up-pipe there's no reason to change those either. Other people have other opinions, but those are mine. GD

One interesting thing of note when you are doing exhaust work - there's virtually nothing to be gained with the up-pipe and headers. The STi's use the same up-pipe as the 90 to 94 EJ22T - it's even the same part number! All the exhaust has to flow through that one little pipe, and if the stock unit can handle 300+ HP...... In fact quite a few folks have shown a decrease in performance with other than stock headers and up-pipe's. Lots of issues with cracking, poor turbo spool, etc. There's a pretty good movement toward just using the stock stuff actually as it works very well up to 300 HP or so. Down-pipes, mid's, and mufflers are fair game though. Anything after the turbo can be improved quite a bit. GD

I had the same thought. The SPFI injector must be stuck open or partially open. GD

There were too many law suits related to roll-over's so the seats were removed after 85. They were then imported as trucks with the full tarrif of same. Subaru discontinued the Brat for the US market after 87 due to the high tarrif and the inability to bypass it with the seats - either way they were screwed out of any possible profit so they gave up. Other countries got the Brat/Brumby/MV till 94. The seats were bolted down with special anti-theft style bolts to a tube frame that was installed here in the US after they came off the boat. Only US models got the seats. Other countries got such diverse options as 2WD models, and Isreal (at least) got extended bed models for extra hauling. Most models in countries other than the US and AUS were actually 2WD. Lots of differences but the US was the only place that got the seats. GD