GeneralDisorder

If you are going to flip cars, you want stuff REALLY cheap, and prefereably with problems that are easy to fix but make the car undrivable. Bad axles (that the owner has been led to believe is the tranny), blown non-interferance timing belts, etc. Less than $500 on the car is the rule with something that old. Because otherwise it's going to take a decade to find a buyer. GD

But for that money you could just get a set of lightly used phase II 2.5 heads and change the cams. GD

Have it professionally done. It's well worth the few hundred to have it done right. The stuff is no end of trouble without the right tools. If the cops give you grief tell them you have skin cancer and can't be exposed to UV. Besides - the most you'll likely get is a warning unless you are doing something else as well. The fine is not large enough for them to actually write it. GD

That is the anti-afterburn valve. It's function was to shut off fuel flow to the idle circuit under closed throttle coasting. Thus preventing the small poping noises of fuel combusting in your muffler. It's entirely useless in your case. GD

No - the outback will have the dual piston calipers/larger rotors and they won't fit over them in the front. 14's won't even fit on my 91 SS with basically the same brakes as your Outback (in the front). 15's should fit though. GD

They are on 90-94 non turbo's as well, and I believe on 95-?? non-outbacks as well. Single piston front's are fine - just need to swap the rears for discs of any sort. Well - unless Subaru makes Skateboards that's what it is. It's not a bad thing - less stuff to break. Also easier wiring for JDM swaps, etc. I would rock one, but I don't call them anything but what they are. GD

I doubt there's more than a handful of people in the US that even know about that. It stems from the appearance, the similar vintage, and the common knowledge that they are "that weird 3 cylinder". People's assumptions take over from there. GD

Yeah - you need a dealer that will give you wholesale. My dealer charges just a tiny bit more than the online dealers, but I save the shipping. Thermo's are $11 something. Heater core for my 91 SS was listed at $265. Online it was $190 + $35 shipping. My dealer was $197 cash and carry You have to know the parts counter people. Also it helps to say "Awe! You can do better than that!". Maybe they get the drift, maybe they don't care. At least they will know that you know their prices are silly. GD

The Krylon Fusion plastic paint works awesome. I painted the "4WD" on the back of my Brat's mudflaps about 3 years ago and it still looks like the day I painted it. I'm sure it would be awesome on interior as well. GD

Body code? As in the VIN body code? It's BC for the sedan, or BF for the wagon. LOTS. As in virtually everything made for the suspensions (up to '06 or so), wheels, etc. All the tranny's share the same bell-housing. Shift linkage is very, very similar. Axles, diffs, etc, etc. The Gen 1 Legacy (90 to 94) is the first generation of the EJ series. They are still working off that same platform as of '08 (with many changes of course, but basically the same design engine and tranny wise). Yes. The wireing is a LOT easier. I would ask around on NASIOC - lots more folks there with experience on the JDM vendor side of things. Legacycentral.org as well - which is an excelent resource for those of us with (or thinking of getting) an EJ22T. I beleive that is correct. If not then they switched rather quickly. It's understandable. I just hate to see so much effort thrown at a project like this and then have you feel like it was a waste of money. Anything can be done, but you mentioned you have a budget. I think the cost-overuns would put you in the poor house. The Gen 1 Legacy turbo is a sweet machine. Colin McRea actually rallied one for a year or two.... GD

Not very close at all. The Phase I gaskets are .152cm thick, while the phase II are only .058cm thick. Different design entirely, and only one third as thick. GD

The 11mm bolts used in the EA82's would require a LOT more than 47 Ft/lbs to stretch any amount they would be unable to recover from. Trust me on this one. They do stretch, but the amount is so tiny after they recover when removed that it would take hundreds of uses to even notice it. Perhaps thousands. You can easily test this by taking a thread pitch gauge to them. If they stretched any noticeable amount then the thread pitch would change and the guage wouldn't match up. Try it and see. I've stretched a few bolts in my line of work . You would be amazed what all-thread will handle when used with various pullers and hydrualics GD

Wireing. This swap is all about wireing. The mechanical side pales by comparison. USDM STi's are fly-by-wire throttle.... you have the DCCD, etc. Wheel speed sensors were never an option on the EA82 chassis (never had ABS), so modified axles with sensor ring's are needed, etc, etc. Plus the GL suspension sucks, the steering sucks, the brakes suck, the body has no real stiffness, the interior's suck, the seats suck, etc, etc. Basically they do a whole lot of sucking in general. Great for an affordable, 4WD family beater though. You are talking about building a whole new vehicle using only the body of a GL. That's fine. So long as you realize that this is less a retro-fit, and more of a body-swap. NOTHING will match up. Many guages won't work with the newer sensors, etc. If you want an older-looking Subaru sleeper, then get a Gen 1 Legacy Turbo. At least then you can benefit from all the EJ bolt-on's. If you *really* want it, it can be done. But the cost is prohibitive, and the car will never handle or ride like an STi - the suspension is just too primitive and there's no good ways around that short of big $$ into custom parts. You can make it better than it was for sure, but it will still be a hazard to drive with 300+ HP. I'm just pointing out that there's a lot more to consider than massive HP. GD

No one makes performance "shoes". There wouldn't be a point, or a market as the only vehicles that sport the drums are the ultra low-end versions like the brighton, and the entry Imps. In fact no legacy came with drums till 95. 90 to 94 (which are plentiful in yards) should bolt right on to the rear of your 96. I would just get a used set of rear discs and a new set of stock pads. Rear drums are for the birds. GD

Completely different - the phase I is a DOHC head. The phase two is a SOHC. Different manifolds, different gaskets, etc. GD

That is refered to as an "A" Bar. Brush gaurds are different. Anyway - mock it up and see. It's very difficult to tell from a picture alone. That looks to be the correct bar for a 4WD EA81 - as for it's fit with metal bumpers vs. plastic..... try and see. It looks like it might bolt to the front of the bumper. GD

Unfortunately that tells me nothing. I need to know where the hoses go (IE: what they connect to) to get a feeling for what it is. There's too many variations on the carb models to give an idea of that it is. It could affect driveability, or not - depending on what it does. But it's unlikely in any event that it will actually cause harm if it's disconnected. There's very few things (if any) carb related that if disconnected could actually damage your engine. Most will just run like poop. GD

There's guy's at legacycentral pulling in 12's with modded EJ22T's. Some pretty heavily modded of course - to the point of blowing up JDM WRX transmissions. STi stuff - the recent US versions anyway - are far more complicated than they need to be with reggard to swapping into an EA82 body. GD

I call BS - his claims are entirely dependant on the technician doing the work. I can (and have) done plenty of quality HG repairs with the engine in the car. His comment about fluids is baseless - just jack up each side as you go so they are slanted slightly. An inch or two is all you need to keep the fluids out of the way. Surface prep is easy if you have the right tools and the knowledge to use them. Anyone that uses a roto-loc or flapper wheel, etc on HG surfaces should not be working any precision machinery to begin with. Head Gaskets CAN be done properly in the vehicle. It saves time, and does not hamper a technician that knows what he's doing. You can also be *too* anal about this issue. There's a point at which the sufaces can be too smooth even. The gasket requires a certain roughness to properly adhere. I could go on all day about RA, and ways of properly measureing it.... but at the end of the day all that's required is that the surfaces be flat, clean (free of gasket material, dirt, oil, fluids and solvents), and be relatively smooth - about a 600 grit finish is excelent. These are not swiss watches, although some attempt to make them seem that way. Drop by my work and I'll show you machines that are far more demanding.... GD

Junk yard. Or just figure out what it's for and perhaps you can either bypass it or disable it. Is it a thermo-vacuum valve? What valve is it, and what is it's function? You'll have to trace the vacuum lines to figure out what it's doing. GD

Actually even that is the same - it's just rotated 90 degree's. I put an 81 Brat tranny into an 82 Brat. You have to rotate the 4WD bit, but otherwise they are identical to any other 81/82 4 speed D/R. GD

Ask and ye shall...... http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html There's a link at the bottom to a write up by snowman that deals specifically with the EA82 - which is far easier than the EA81 to convert. GD

Yeah - sadly they are dealer only parts. But at least they are inexpensive. Check that the bolts aren't worn out, or anything else badly worn. It's usually just the bushings though. On the flip-side, you could always snag a linkage from the yard that feels better, and either just use it, or install the bushings on the spare and just slip it right in. It's only like 6 bolts, a cotter pin, and the interior consoles. GD

Carrier is easy - just two bits of metal bent and drilled. And it's the same amount of work either way. I say swap the tranny first. The engine swap will be that much easier because the tranny is already in place. GD

The 81 Brat tranny is the same as any other EA81 4 speed D/R. Adapting the EJ22 to it should be as simple as drilling the EA81 flywheel and using the commonly availible adaptor plates that folks sell. GD