GeneralDisorder

You can get a cheap compression tester at a discount store (harbor frieght is good). That will tell you a lot right there. GD

Yeah - just do them all. The ebay kit seems to work alright. I've used a couple of them without issue yet. GD

Yep. I couldn't agree more. It's out there brother - you just have to find the niche that suits your situation. For me that's wrenching. My work is also my hobby. For me that's the only way to stay happy and sane. GD

That's quite a rare item you have. Those woody wagons weren't all that common, and even less common now as I would assume many people ripped the stuff off. You might want to start by posting in the "Historic" section of the forum as your '77 is from the era covered by that section. There's also a couple people on this board that make and sell decals. You might want to send out some PM's on the subject as someone may be near to you or has access to a similar body style and could reproduce the decals for you. There are no sources for this stuff in the aftermarket so don't waste much time with that approach. It's going to have to be NOS, or custom made. GD

Never said it had to be "new". I probably wouldn't own a "new" car with only a couple exceptions either. With 100 years of cars to choose from I fail to see why people always seem to need new cars. There's plenty of unique and wonderful automobiles out there - most can be had for a reasonable amount of money and won't depreciate much at all. Choose wisely and the value could rise dramatically. Sadly that's not the case for an 88 GL. GD

Hardly. Used to be a Software Engineer - both contract, and non. Don't want any part of it anymore. I have no desire to deal with customers, and my time is my own. When I leave work I LEAVE work. See - I've been self-employed and I know the drawbacks to it. It wears people down till they are a used up shell. You will know nothing but work for most of your life and one day it will kill you. I've witnessed it first hand from several angles. There's very few business owners that can "give up" their business and just relax. It's a drive they have - and it leads to all sorts of problems. Failed relationships, high blood pressure, etc. All stemming from the feeling that no one can do it right but you - and that's reinforced every time someone screws something up. So no, I'm not at all sad. But if it makes you feel better to think I am, then go right ahead. One more delusion can't possibly hurt. GD

K&N's (along with other oiled cloth type filters) can cause oil contamination of the MAF wires. It's better to just use the paper element filters (which filter better anyway) that do not have oil on them. GD

I guess my mommy didn't coddle me enough. And I'm no bully - heck I didn't even ask for his lunch money! Oh please - I wear pants, and I give flowers on mothers day. Logic doesn't require ownership. I merely *understand* it, I don't *own* it. Yes. Absolutely. Now of course that's just a silly statement. Money is simply a means to an end. I don't agree with his ends, money is only the way he got there. I wouldn't have agreed with him if he stole $7,000 worth of parts for it either. The fact that money is involved is only incidental. Which is exactly why he shouldn't at all be surprised by my reaction. If he were smart he wouldn't have asked in the first place because the answer doesn't matter to him or anyone else apparently. GD

It should say on the outside of the unit. If that fails I can tell you that most of the ND ones I've seen had a blue cap on the terminal end. The Hitachi's are all black. Also the brand of coil will match the brand of distributor you have. ND coil's will be found along side ND distributors. Although in 20 years it often happens that people use the wrong units. GD

Well, judging by your spelling, punctuation, sentence structure, lack of clarity, and excellent money handling skills I predict you won't have a business for long - let alone a multi-million dollar one. I certainly am not seeing the blinding intellect in this one.... anyone else who can? Sounds like a flash-in-the-pan success story that quite possibly will end badly.... if in fact it's not wholly made up in the first place. There's a reason that people who came from money are rarely left in the poor-house. They know what to do with it. GD

Yep - sounds like a t-belt. Check that the rotor screw didn't fall out of the disty too. GD

You entirely missed my point, but it could be that it's over your head. Government spending is similar to his spending in that it's mostly wasteful, and the money could often be better spent by just leaving it in the hands of the people to begin with. THEY will spend it on the open market how they see fit. The correlation is that he would do well in (today's) government because he knows how to waste money. Sure he's giving a pittance back to the community through buying stuff, but that's true of nearly all spending. The benchmark of proper spending is how MUCH you get for that buck, not that you got SOMETHING. Paying too much for something distributes wealth unevenly, and goes against the fundamentals of capitalism. Being dollar wise, skeptical, and taking a few steps back once in a while to see the big picture are halmarks of good investors. GD

Sorry to tell you but the tie rod screws off of the rack. It's called the "inner" tie rod ball joint. You don't have to change the rack out, you just need to replace the tie rods themselves. Peel the boots back and you will see. GD

He's been here for 3 years' date=' has 33 posts, and wants us to make him feel warm and fuzzy about polishing his turd. He hasn't contributed anything that I'm aware of in that time to earn a rimjob from me or anyone else here..... Next.... Hopefully.

You can yell all ya like, but it's not going to change the facts. If you paid $2500 4 years ago, then you paid too much 4 years ago. Whatever you're worth, it's too much. Give that money to someone that can invest it wisely and go back to sucking on fudgesicles kid. Multi-million eh? And if this capitol is so liquid then why are you driving 4 year old Subaru's? And if it's internet based and you have so much CE knowledge then how is it that you haven't found the caps-lock yet? GD

You don't need to remove those if you push down on the arm. You may have to have someone push it down with their foot. The movement is there you just have to do a little persuasion. As stated those three bolts change your alignment so I wouldn't touch them. I would drop the diff down before I touched those. But that's a personal choice I guess. GD

Replace the adjuster. That happens a lot actually. I've snapped a few completely off. If you can't get hte drum off beat it till the pads delaminate from their backing. It will come off, you just have to use brute force. Or if you have a really really big 3 jaw puller you might get it off that way too. Probably just push the axle through though. Vice grips or a pipe wrench. You may have to replace that bit of hard line that runs down the control arm. Sounds to me like you should be putting discs on it, or a complete, non crusty drum set at least. Those old manual adjustment drum setups are primitive and usually really crusty and difficult to work on. You may have to put some heat to parts of it if you wish to make them move again. GD

You may have to push down on the control arm to get the room you need. The bushings keep them from moving much on their own. But that's the method. Pull the pins, remove the shock mount (upper or lower) and pull the axle off. You may have an axle with an outer CV cup instead of a DOJ. That just means you may have to push down harder on the control arm to get the room you need. GD

Scratch one from this earth. I recently traded it to a friends daughter who had it for a week and was rear ended. Her score is now one 2004 Focus, and one 1985 GL D/R Sedan.... Original CA car (feedback carb), No rust, Weber swapped, working AC, etc, etc Now it's dead . Oh well, I scavenged the D/R and the engine+Weber of course. So yes, they most definately existed. GD

Subaru has not used ballast resistors since the days of points and condensor style distributors, which were last used in 1980 IIRC. The ballast resistors were used to cut down wear on the points and the condensor inside the distributor. Your's is fully electronic, and uses a hall-effect sensor and a transistorized ignitor to fire the coil and thus has no need of a ballast resistor. At any rate you should stick with the stock Hitachi coil (or ND if you have that distributor). The stock units are much more rugged than aftermarket, and are designed to be installed horizontally as well as to properly function with the stock ignitor. GD

Virtually worthless as cars go. It's worth what someone will give you for it. And there's no one here that's looking to spend that kind of money on a GL. If I had $7,000 to blow I still wouldn't want it. Especially not a wagon body. Maybe an STi swapped RX body with almost no miles on it..... probably not even then. For $7,000 you could get into a lot of vehicles that are insanely nicer than a 90 HP station wagon. A nice late 90's Audi for example - complete with the Bose 8 speaker system, leather (heated), AWD, etc, etc. If you polish that turd too much it will melt. You'll be sorry you blew all that coin on that thing in a few years kid.... GD

EA81's are single peice. They are ~5" shorter, and run at a steeper angle. Should be perfectly fine. GD

I suspected something like that, but I never tried it out myself so I wasn't sure. What I do know speaks to the validity of that claim though as I had to elongate the shifter hole rearward in order to fit a stock 4 speed shifter into my formerly 2WD 5 speed wagon. GD

Fusible links are in a black box fed directly off the battery. They are in the engine bay - just follow the smaller positive line from the battery terminal and you will find them. They are just "wires" of specific and very precise qualities that will burn through at a specific amperage. The wire in them is covered by a cloth material that is colored - green, black, red, etc. depending on their rating. They are flexible and have female blade terminals on each end. About 3" long overall. A fuse would work as well if it's the same rating as the link. They are fairly high ratings though. GD