GeneralDisorder

Was it a DL? Those are different than GL's and a lot nicer to take apart (no tilt column). GD

You're a moron if you think two specific models are indication of the brands as a whole. I can name off Toyota's that sucked just like I can name Subaru's that suck. Try the early 90's toyota V6's for example - they had as many headgasket problems as the phase one 2.5's. Then there was the T100's . As a mechanic that has worked on many brands and many models it's pretty easy to see that it's not simply a matter of brand, but of specific models. Yes the phase one 2.5's suck - which is why I would never own one (unless it was CHEAP). You bought a terrible example and that's on you - just as it would be if you owned a yota with that early V6. GD

Yeah - Sun Sport was a 2WD - dissapointing and probably why there's few left. GD

Yeah - that was interesting even for me, and I've done lots of engines with hydraulic tesioners. Not hard but definately different. In the Audi and VW world the hydro tensioners just compress - no waiting or slow compressing. And they look very similar. Kind of different. GD

For some reason. in the US people just don't seem to get that everyone is for sale. In virtually every other country in the world all you have to do is slip someone a bill or two. Here it's *really* the same, but it's not nice to talk about it. Politicians, corporations, media - they are all in bed with someone. Want to know what kind of thought went into a product - take one apart and put it together again. More people should rely on their own senses rather than those of everyone elses. GD

Call CCR - if anyone will know where to source one they will. GD

I humbly point out that one does not need to take money directly nor does one even have to accept money per say to be in somoene else's pocket..... sure, they may not accept money - but I bet they don't turn down all that free swag, or invitations to such and such party with free booze and food, etc. It's all about how you butter them up. Doesn't have to be money. Their readership is clearly biased - for one thing it's entirely made up of people too scared to make decisions for themselves. While I'm not knocking the practice of researching a product before you buy, you also have to have some variety in your sources for your research - if you rely on CR for everything then you are just living out of a pre-packaged box, and if you don't think they won't give a favorable review to the company who got them plastered in Vegas last week..... well you would be wrong. I've read the occasional CR in a dentists office, but somehow have managed to surround myself with quality stuff despite being entirely out of touch with the sheeple (their publications, and media as well) I seem to be surrounded with. GD

Pretty much whoever is cheapest. As long as you get the right core for your year you should be fine. There were a few different arrangments for the EA82 line - dealing with mostly how the brass lines are routed behind the duct box under the dash. Personally, I would pull it and then find one similar at the junk yard - doesn't take too long to get them out and if you have the time it's worth saving $50 or so as you can usually find good ones. Figure a SOLID day to do a core - the whole dash must come out to get at it. And you will probably want to get some marine grade foam weatherstripping to redo the core box and some other duct bits. Lysol the hell out of the duct work too GD

No, not even close. Not terribly hard - it's a lot of cursing. There's nuts or bolts (can't remember) that have to come out and you can only get at them with a needle nose pliers - use a pair of needle nose vice grips to break em loose, then a regular pair to unscrew them 1/16 of a turn at a time I think you should at least give this a try - new leys can work wonders. He *should* be able to rebuild the lock cylinder if you take him the whole assembly as well. It's a standard nissan tumbler setup and you just drill out some pins and pop in a new one. Shouldn't give him much trouble. GD

Your buddy's experience may be clouded with time. It's the EA82's that are often fixed with reseal kits - they have a "mickey mouse" gasket that gets hard and sucks into the oil passage allowing air into the system. The EA71 and EA81 do not have this failing. Also, in the "early 90's" he wouldn't have been working on too many EA71's and EA81's as they hadn't really been produced in numbers since 84 for the main lines, 87 for Brat's (EA81 only), and 89 for the lowely hatch. The EA71 was even more rare due to it only being used in the STD model hatch - which was quite uncommon really. But any way, the EA71/81 pumps rarely benefit more than a fractional amont with a reseal kit - when the pressure drops it's nearly always a faulty sending unit, or a bad pump. My experience is that the EA81 pumps last around 100k to 150k pretty well. Once the pressure drops below 20 psi hot idle it's time for a new pump. GD

Sweet - so sounds like Exedy flywheel and 2.5RS clutch set. Now to save some pennies for it. The Exedy is made both for the 91-94 turbo EJ22T, and for the later NA 2.5RS.... I'm guessing I want the 2.5RS flywheel?? GD

Someone at legacycentral has one on an NA 22 so pretty sure it's a direct bolt on. GD

I would have to say that given naive way in which you approached the qustion, and then didn't understand the request for clarification that you are in WAY over your head for a swap of this magnitude. *Making* a 4WD from a 2WD involves a lot more than most people realize, and more changes than the reply's you get here will indicate. It's not just getting the 4WD in place - that's relatively easy. It's knowing ALL the parts that will make it a TRUE 4WD as Subaru designed them to be - sway bars, struts, springs, alignment settings, exhaust, gauge clusters, interior trim, etc, etc. There's a laundry list of stuff if you want to do it right. GD

I like a Toyota, and I recognize the Honda reputation but have not had any remarkably good experiences with them. Subaru's, like many other brands, have their share of quirky models. What they lack is consistently bland, cookie cutter cars produced in huge numbers for the masses. Subaru's are a specialty brand targeting very specific niche markets. They really don't have any models (anymore) that are "just transportation" like the Camry, and the Accord/Civic. The people looking to buy a cookie cutter civic are looking for something entirely different than those that look to buy a Subaru of any kind. If you want variety and innovation in your cars, you ARE going to tade some reliability factor - Subaru does this better than a LOT of other manufacturers - If they wanted the cookie cutter market they could have just stuck with the EJ22. That's just not what Subaru is about though. GD

Correct - the VIN reads it as a BF chassis. And I notice that the headliner is a different color than the rest of the interior . GD

Any possilbilty of a part number for that beast? And how will that work with the cable clutch? Also how do I know which 2.5 kit I need (there's a number of them), and will the disc mate up to the 2.2 trans? GD

HAHA! Well what you guys are missing is stuff like this: "All the cars in the magazine's "Good bets" list are manufactured by Honda and Toyota" Gee, I wonder who's paying for the big print ads with CR and the other mags that are published by that company And most of the rigs in the "bad choice" section are luxury rigs - statistically people just don't keep those for long enough to care about that kind of mileage. It's not that Subaru couldn't hang with the "good bet" crowde - it's that they don't have to pay some magazine to reassure their consumers of that fact. GD

The senders aren't *that* much - by the time it's said and done with EA Subaru's a mechanical gauge will cost the same. Longer tubing (pump is really far from the dash), and metric adaptors that none of them include, etc. The senders can be had for about $25 - $30 at OEM parts houses. A half quart of ATF, while probably not a terrible idea for flushing the old EA81, will do exactly nothing for his SOLID LIFTER valves. GD

Should be the same sensor - displacement really has nothing to do with the oil pressure. But I was really refering to using a *mechanical* gauge to check the reading and verify the electric sender. You can get cheap pressure testers from Harbor Freight or the like for around $10. Or wall mart has a mechanical gauge that you can put in the cabin for like $6.99 - you may have to find a longer length of tubing for it and some adaptors but I put one in my EA82 sedan for about $30 total. GD

Castrol super clean wheel cleaner worked well for me - and a "wheel brush". The stuff is obscenely strong though so wear gloves. GD

Drop in an EA81.... you can get the oil pumps for them still. Or find a late 80's EA71 as they changed them to use the same oil pump as the EA81 and it would bolt to your bell-housing making a trans change uneccesary. But seriously - check your readings first - the senders are notoriously innacurate and you probably don't need a pump - the pushrod engines should only need new oil pumps every 150 - 200 thousand. GD

Sadly I don't have one anymore that's not Webered, but you should tell those that do if it's a feedback CA model or not. Big differences so we need to know which one. Also - to check for vac leaks spray around with carb cleaner - the RPM will go up when you find a leak with your spray. GD

First he needs to test the pressure - it's very possibly just the sender. GD

The clutch on my new 94 Legacy, while not in danger of giving out, doesn't lock up like I would like it to. It slips much too easily, and I'm naturally a spirited driver. What is a good reasonably priced clutch kit and perhaps a lightened flywheel that will do what I want? Not looking for racing parts, just something that will clamp when I let it out with a stock EJ22... GD

Hehe - good luck. 1600 oil pump aren't easy to come by. GD