GeneralDisorder

Press the little switch on the pedal by hand and see if it's related to the switch, or the movement of the pedal itself. Probably the switch that turns on the brakelights. The ! thing is the brake lamp warning indicator telling you that a bulb is out back there..... brake lights always have power, so it sounds like there's a problem in the circuit somewhere. Maybe the brake lamp checker is shotsky. GD

Should be all the same in the rear. GD

Yep - I've installed more subaru engines than I can count that way - never used an alignment tool. Just tighten the PP after the engine is mated to the tranny. The few times I have used an alignment tool it's been more difficult because the pilot bearing doesn't always want to line up with the tranny input shaft. GD

Wow - that's the rusty little brother to my 86: (I say "little brother" cause mine is a factory D/R) Come up here for a quick vacation and I'll find you a nice wagon. I can get em all week long for $400 or less (usually less). Rust is not even in our vocabulary up here..... GD

Have to remove the heads. The EA series do eventually suffer from burnt valves and seats, and they lose compression from it. It's not usually all that severe though. Sounds to me like the guy probably means it needs new valve stem seals - those cause oil burning, and are much more likely to be bad enough to warrant fixing. The phrase "needs minor engine work" and "has burnt valve" are diametrically opposed. A valve job is not "minor" by any stretch of the imagination. Water pump is minor - main seals are minor..... valve jobs and ring jobs are far from "minor". Sounds like he has no idea what he's talking about, so I would say it's safe to make your own judgement on the source of the problem. Could be burning oil, and mechanic told him it needs a "valve job" when it could only need stem seals or even just a PCV valve . Shops are not to be trusted when diagnosing old subabu's. GD

And my 84 2WD 5 speed GL came with all those, and the digi-dash :cool: GD

Yep - in Canada it was a Leone. If you want to talk about non-US you can just throw out virtually EVERYTHING that has been said or will be said. Almost anything goes outside the US. Here's a short list: 2WD Brat's Brat's with extended bed lengths (still 2WD) Brat's made till 1994 EA71's, and EA81's (some with fuel injection) in EA82 body's EJ15's EJ18's with carbs, and distributors EA series with leather interior EA headlamp sprayers That's just a small sampleing of what the rest of the world got in various places that I've noticed. GD

Actually they all are Leone's. The entire EA81/EA82 chassis is refered to as the Leone on all parts of the world except the US. There were some "mistakes" early in the EA82 run I think tho - like this one I found once: GD

That's not an easy question. It has to be broken down by year and model as things changed all the time. And even then, badging alone can't give you all the answers. Better to just hang around here, and look at lots of subaru's and you'll get a "feel" for it eventually. The hard and fast "rules" are few and far between as far as badging. The basic rule is that a DL is a lower model than a GL. GL-10's are higher yet. The GLF was an 80/81/82 designation that was dropped after that and applies to specifically the coupe I beleive.... other than that it doesn't seem to mean a lot. I've seen 2WD, 4WD, EA71 and EA81 versions of the GLF. But there's even more badging out there: GL-10 Turbo (EA81) GL-5 DL-5 GFT-5 (JDM) Just a few off the top of my head that I've seen or own. And to all those future posters that *think* they know about such and such *feature* that only came on a specific badging.... think before you speak cause there's MANY, MANY variations out there, and someone will probably shoot you down. Only a few that come to mind are fairly specific - DL's didn't get the intermittant wipers for example, and were never equipped with power windows, etc. They also didn't have a tilt column and some other stuff. DL Brat's never had the Halo-Twin roof. Basically a stripped down model in almost all respects. As far as the GL/GL-10/GLF/etc linup tho - it's all pretty fair game. GD

Clearly you haven't seen very many D/R's. That's a standard 85 RX interrior (for a RHD version), and all 85's had that style lever. GD

Some do, and some do not. Just like GL/DL models, not all Loyale's were tilt. It's a crap shoot - I've seen Loyales with power windows and no tilt, and I've seen models with crank windows and no tilt too. It's like a cracker jack box with the Loyales's - since they all have the same badging ("Loyale"), it's impossible to know what you will find inside it. GD

Probably wet carpeting. The underlayment (insulation stuff) holds wetness like crazy. Rip out the carpet and I bet you find the culprit. It can stay wet for years under there. Probably got wet when the winsheild leaked. Also make sure the floor pan grommets are in place and sealed. GD

To build a hi-po EA81 you are looking at right around $800 to $1000 for parts and labor (that you can't do yourself). Here's the breakdown of mine: Chrome Rings: $55 Oversized bearings (crank, and rod) + turned crank: $75 from a board member that no longer needed them - about $150 his cost. Gaskets: $100 (Fel-Pro head set + conversion set, OEM manifold [intake/exhaust], pan, pump seals, etc) Heads milled .025": $75 for both Delta 252 RV torque ground cam + all new hydro lifters: $135 Bottle brush to do the cylinder walls: $65 Parts car for 1600 pistons $1 That's alredy $506, and I've been very careful about how I spend - it took me a year to gather everything (I bought a whole car just to part it for the pistons). And I didn't even consider fluids, heli-coil's, cost of my special wrist pin tool, RTV, calipers, micrometer, ect, etc, etc. It's not a cheap process. Doing it requires some investment in tools, and a not insignificant investment of time and research. Being that the cost is pretty high in comparison to what the vehicle will likely be worth when it's done, I sugest building the highest quality engine you can - that means starting with a hydro lifter block. I wouldn't invest the time or money in a solid lifter engine - it's just too much work. GD

Reman disc's are generally fine. It's the pressure plate you want to replace with new. GD

If that's all you've seen, then you haven't seen much. Bunch of AUS guys with 4" lifts is all that is. There's people running around with 10 and 12 inch lifts with nissan or sammi t-case setups, etc. That video is nothing to write home about. GD

SPFI, and pushbutton 5 speed. Pretty basic the Loyale's are. Same size inside as any other EA82 wagon. GD

So even though you admit it's a waste of time, you are still going to do it? The definition of insanity is doing something repeatedly and expecting a different result each time. By doing it, you are silently supporting the very system you think someone should make "better", thus the powers that be will assume everything is OK. That's irresponsible. You are PART of the problem by acting in that way. Everyone starts with the same respect - their actions determine whether they earn more or less. Respect is not "deserved", it is earned, and everyone starts with 100%. GD

You DO need sealant on the carb base as there is a coolant passage under there. If you install them dry, there's a good chance it will "weep" coolant. I use Edelbrock "gaskachich" which is something like rubber cement. GD

It is not really possible to install the disc backwards - the spring plate will not fit in the flywheel side. It will be 31 flavors of f'd up if you do, and I doubt the PP would even bolt on. There would be serious metal-on-metal sounds, and nothing would feel right. Not even a chimp would put one together that way - round peg, square hole for sure. GD

That information MIGHT have been useful 6 MONTHS ago, when this question was asked. GD

You really, really ought to stay out of the EA81 threads till you have worked on a few. The Brat door is not like ANY other subaru. It is not chrome, and it does not have a pushbutton. It's painted the same as the body, and it has a spring loaded twist knob that confuses the hell out of all the station attendants. GD

Yeah - tell me about it :-\ We've been putting up with it for a while now. Unfortunately he doesn't get the message - prefering instead to presume that I'm the only one that doesn't understand him, when in large part NO ONE understands him. There's just not a lot of people like myself that will stand up and call BS. You should see some of the ranting I've done to try and keep the information accuracy on the up and up around him GD

Nope - all our EA81's got the 306 (or the carter/weber). Maybe you guys got em on those later brumby's and such, but we never did. GD

It comes in rolls of various sizes (12" wide by 36" long is common) - Napa's actually usually a good source. If you are really high speed, they make pretty inexpensive punch sets to make perfect round holes - you can use a larger hole size (like 3/4") to make the radius of the intake port, and a smaller hole size to make the bolt holes. Just makes the process quicker, but isn't needed. The punch's are often used in leather working too, or you can use the copper tubing compression rings from home cheapo too - those are really cheap, but usually come in big bags, and they dull so have to be tossed eventually. Having a couple thicknesses of gasket paper, and a utility knife around can save hours of driving, and talking to retards behind counters. And can many times save days of waiting for those difficult to find gaskets. The simple realization that YOU TOO can cut out bits of cardboard with a pen-knife is a powerful concept that is all too foreign in our (consumer based/buy-it-now/die in the snow cause you are too stupid to make fire) society these days GD

Dealership should stock them. Utility knife beyond your abilities??? GD