GeneralDisorder

Yeah - should be the same. GD

Probably in the range of $500 to $800 for a quality job. Shouldn't need *all* new internals - bearings, seals, syncro's, maybe some shift bits, and possibly a few bushings. The gears and shafts are really not a wear item. GD

I'll check it out - have to see if the yard has any EA81's. I'll be out there probably Friday or Saturday. Last I knew they had a couple wagons, which should work for ya. All the 4WD's have the indentation. I pretty much know which tank you need. GD

You should probably just replace that tank - sounds like it's pretty rusty. That part listing is just the pump, and has nothing at all to do with the sending unit in the tank you removed. GD

I've noticed two things about Discount - first they will heavily discount things that have been on the shelf forever - I've had them do that with brake pads before, etc - and the box for these wires looks pretty faded like it's been on the shelf a while. Second they have a lot of "leeway" in their prices. The guys seem to be free to make up whatever price they want for stuff - when I bought a brand new Redline weber kit a few years back I gave them the best price I could find on the internet and he looked at the computer, thought about it, then said "yeah - I could do that" I frequent the Mcgloughlin store a lot, so they know me and I'm usually treated pretty good on priceing.... same with Lithia Subaru on Oregon City. Talk to Lea - she's the parts manager and always hooks me up with wholesale. GD

MAF cleaner only applies to the hot-wire style. I have no idea how to clean your flapper style..... it's probably not possible. It uses a hinged door attached to something very much like the TPS. I'm sure you can spray it down and make sure it works smoothly, but I don't think you can do much with the resistor/wiper element itself. GD

It was $22 for NGK wires, and 4 NGK plugs..... I just assumed the plugs were $1 each. That was on Friday of last week.... The guy did have a heck of a time figureing out the part number - first quoting me $95 and then he realized that was for some model of Mercedes . Could be the case with the phone quote. GD

I don't have the full version of acrobat, and I made that site in mozilla composer and wordpad..... someone else might be able to covert it.... here's just the document frame if you want to print it: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI_doc.html GD

Yeah - the cheap price of subaru radiators doesn't warrant rebuilding them. If this was a $300 radiator, maybe, but they aren't I got one of these and it's been great. Single row, so probably not for turbo's....$60 shipped, and the one I got was a Modine: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-90-SUBARU-LOYALE-GL-GF-DL-FE-RX-RADIATOR-86-87-88-89_W0QQitemZ230052015488QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33602QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Here's a thread where we talked about this auction: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61518&highlight=ebay+radiator GD

I could have one ready later this week if you need it that quick. Not sure about the disty.... but you could probably do that part. GD

I'll be selling harnesses soon with everything labeled. Should be pretty easy. The return line isn't all that big of a deal - PM bratsrus1 (jerry) - he did an 80 hatch and ran his own return line. I saw it and it didn't look hard at all. GD

It's not that hard - read through my write up: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html Rebuilding the carb isn't bad either - look at it this way: what more damage could you do? It already doesn't run. If it's just a carb and disty it would be stupid to crush it. Disty rebuild is like $50 for everything, and a carb rebuild kit is like $35 for a quality one. Or put that towards an SPFI conversion parts, and have me do up a harness and disty for you. GD

Local place called "Discount Import Parts". They have two locations here - Beaverton, and Milwaukie(?). They specialize in VW, but have parts for virtually everything on the import scale. Great prices, lots of Redline and specialty fluids, etc. They had the NGK's (plugs and wires) in stock for the EA82. They also have OEM brand oil pumps for $65! GD

Not entirely true. The 6.2 and the 6.5 turbo are really not that bad. Properly maintained they need rebuilds about every 200k..... which for a diesel isn't great, but it's not THAT bad. There's far worse designs out there. GD

The by-pass slot in the housing is very important - the MAF can be new, and if the by-pass isn't clean..... when you cleaned it did you remove the MAF or did you just squirt the brake cleaner into the housing - that will just push the grime futher into the by-pass. Any rattleing in the exhaust? Maybe a peice of the cat is floating around in and blocking the exhuast flow. That's a stab in the dark tho. Fuel pump *could* be slightly intermittant but that's really not too likely. Only way to really check that would be to hook up a fuel pressure guage in the cabin, or just try a junk yard pump. They are about $15 at u-pull-it. The one on Foster has a load of them. Plug wires are extremely unlikely. Just get a set of NGK's to test the theory before buying some expensive wires you don't need. The NGK's run about $18 and are as good as any - plus they are numbered and are always the right length. GD

Have you cleaned the MAF yet? And especially the MAF housing - there is a small by-pass slot that can get dirty and clogged with gunk - this will not allow enough air over the MAF element. Remove the MAF sensor from it's housing and clean that by spraying the wires with brake cleaner. Then remove the housing from the filter box and intake boot and clean that thing till no more dirty brake cleaner comes out of the hole or the slot. Then remove the intake boot and spray that out for good measure - they get a lot of oil in them as the PCV system isn't well designed (they have a kit for it that came out in 91, but it's only a partial solution really - they still get dirty). GD

83 or 84 4WD will work. It needs to be the 225mm unit. 82 and older 4WD's were 200mm like the 2WD's. There is a way to use the EA82 setup if you wish - you can use the EA81 clutch disc with the EA82 flywheel and pressure plate, and then you need a throwout bearing from a mid 80's Nissan 720 hardbody truck.... I know it sounds strange, but that's the way it's done. You also have to grind a bit on the bottom of the bell-housing for the EA82 flywheel to bolt on, and you would need to transfer your timing marks over to it. But as stated by Qman - it's much easier to just get the EA81 flywheel. Also - I usually don't do anything to the flywheels, and for the few that I have had turned, my local Napa will do them in about 2 hours.... you should call and check as you may not even need an extra. GD

No - the axle will just flop around and you will lose power. Unless you think a 1/2" ball bearing rolling down the freeway is much of a danger..... personally I've seen worse. GD

That seems to be the problem. He only beleives what he wants, and utterly disregards anything we on the board have to say. That's fine, but I hate to see these threads because there's plenty of people that might get entirely the wrong ideas from them. The search is helpful, and we tell people to use it, but it's actually harmfull if you pull up disinformation about "invisibles", glow in the dark spark plugs, and subaru engineers purposely mis-aligning the valve timing. He's crazy like a bag of hammers, and it's starting to get annoying. GD

You will have to remove the choke housing. The spring is a spiral wound bi-metal type, and does not have any "wire" holding it in place. The hook end that engages the choke lever wears though and falls off. The choke plate should be closed when cold, and slowly opens as the spring heats. GD

EA81 and EA82 2WD trannys are the same. GD

You are insane. Did the voices in your head tell you this? :-\ GD

Do what Frank sugested. Unfortunately, the EA82 Hitachi choke's are junk - the end of the spring wears through and falls off. It's possible the rebuilders missed it. GD

It's not permanent, it's just really damn hard to get apart. They use an inner snap ring that fits into a groove on the inside of the inner race. You sure it wasn't an EA81 axle? They are too short and will pull apart from one end or the other if you try to put them on an EA82. GD

Sure - but in CA, OR, and WA we don't get salted roads. They use chemical de-icing out here cause we don't have huge supply's of saly from the great lakes like you guys. I have radiators from as far back as 82 still performing flawlessly. And NONE of our radiators ever corrode on the outside - they get clogged on the inside from people not changing their coolant annually as they should. GD