GeneralDisorder

So what did that cost? GD

Nope - have to open it up. Those specs are proper base jetting for a subaru (plus tons and tons of other small engines). It will run very well with excelent mileage. You wouldn't have to change these unless you are racing or modifiying your cam or something. GD

Those are just the idle jets. I'm refereing to all the jets in my original post. You don't need a secondary idle jet - often they are the same as the primary though. GD

After you time the belts you need to stab that disty in. Put the engine at #1 TDC (0 on the timing marks of the flywheel), and slide the disty in with it pointing at the #1 spark boot. As for timeing the belts - my method is drivers side up, passenger side down, and put both belts on. Done. No rotating or anything. You can do it that way, but I prefer to do it without rotating - it's quicker. GD

Yes - thanks for not hijacking, and thanks agains for searching GD

"you rolls the dice, you takes your chances" You know not what you speak - the Justy is transverse. But yes, I know of a couple that have been converted. GD

I've considered using the EA82 SPFI pistons, or maybe the carb pistons. The carb ones are 9.0:1, and the SPFI are 9.5:1. Start milling the heads, and things get complicated. The SPFI ones might actually be too much with milled heads and such. Near as I can figure, with milled heads and EA71 pistons I'll be running close to 9.5:1 anyway. All things considered, I no longer consider the EA71 pistons to be much of an "upgrade". The compression increase is extremely slight. They are about .020" taller than the EA81 pistons. The downside is the ring lands are thinner. I'm not planning any forced unduction for this engine I'm building, and I've already got the pistons and rings so I'm going to use them. Next time I'll probably try out the SPFI or EA82 carb pistons, but this round it's too late to change the plan now. GD

Weber right? I routinely have to clean mine when off-roading. It will start acting weird cause the air bleeds are prone to getting junk in them. Just rev it up, and cover the intake with a rag. If that doesn't work, try spraying carb cleaner directly into each air bleed to clean them out. GD

Yep - looks like EA82 wagon wheels. GD

Do not adjust the clutch "tight" like you are intending. You will wear out the clutch release bearing. This is not a race car, and is not intended to release right off the floor. It should release where the cable is properly adjusted. That means the release bearing not riding on the pressure plate fingers. There will be a second cable for the hill holder that keeps the clutch "released" so the bearing doesn't ride on the pressure plate when not in use. GD

Been covered - use the search.

Huh? Both mains (primary and secondary) are 140..... what are you refereing to with "60"?? GD

You need to check your jets: 140/140 mains. 170/160 air bleeds 50, 55, or 60 idle will work - I like the 50 myself. GD

yeah - I got it. Been at the show, and cleaning up the damage from same. I have to hit a yard here tommorow or the next day and I'll pick up the stuff for ya. GD

Yeah - ATF draws moisture when it sits for a long time. That moisture causes all kinds of problems with the hydrualic valves inside the tranmission. And seals that normally get fluid when run dry out from lack of exposure to ATF. Etc. Manuals aren't so prone as the parts are big gears and bronze syncro's and stuff. Also 90 weight gear oil tends to stick to parts a lot longer than ATF does. And they don't have to depend on pressurized fluid running through them, and close tollerance hydraulic bits... It's best to stick with manuals for the older subaru's in general. The Auto's have real issues even if they haven't sat. Let em sit a while, and it's just agrivates an already troubled design. GD

Turbo's are not SPFI, they are MPFI Turbo. GD

The aftermarket pumps come with a washer for that exact purpose, to use or not depending on application. So it seems it's an OK thing to do. Has worked fine for me.... GD

It actually was - I thought the same till I ran across an 86 2WD GL-10 sedan at Foster the other day. SPFI - it was a little weird as far as wiring and such, but it was all there, and original. No vac can or anything. I still have doubts about 85 tho. I have seen an MPFI 85 2WD wagon though, so I think the SPFI replaced the MPFI in 86 as the standard for the 2WD high end non-turbo.... GD

Fuel pressure regulator is on the side of the throttle body - it's vacuum source is on the backside about 2" away from the regulator. There are two types of regulators - one is black, and one is gold. Both are interchangable. The hose from the regulator goes to the return line - the line from the throttle body goes to the fuel pump. Or are you asking about the fuel pump oreintation? The big end is the supply, and the small end is the pressure end that goes to the engine bay. GD

Yeah - the Prius CVT is nothing short of brilliant. It's just a planatary gear set mated to the engine, and a large electric motror/generator. Engine power or electric power can be split up anyway they want between the wheels. Giving you the option of full engine power, full electic power, or a balance - say using part of the engine power to the wheels, and part to run the generator to charge the batteries. It also allows coasting to charge the batteries through the same generator. But of course this has nothing to do with the ECVT of the Justy. Having sat for 7 years I would probably assume the transmission is already dead (maybe why it was parked?). 7 years is a LONG time for any sort of automatic to sit - especially that one. I just picked up a 3AT 4WD that sat for almost two years, checked fluids, etc. It drove about 15 miles before the 4WD clutch gave out and I had to tow it. GD

Unfortunately you are pretty much on your own this round. You have a Feedback Hitachi carb. There aren't many people that know anything about those, and although I have some experience with them I couldn't tell you what that is or why it's causeing a miss unless I was standing there to look at it. You'll have to trace the lines down and read up on the feedback system to find out what that is, and how it works. I highly sugest picking up an FSM because..... well the other manuals don't even attempt to cover the system. It's uncommon enough, and complex enough that it's only delt with in the FSM. Even then it's a real nightmare. To avoid hair-loss and premature aging, I sugest a Weber, or even better SPFI in the near future. GD

The ECU has a direct connection to the battery with a fusible link. This is provided so the ECU memory can track diagnostic codes for later use. It's like the memory on your radio.... GD

Electric Continuously Variable Transmission. It started as a snowmobile transmission I beleive.... and grew into the Justy back in the late 80's early 90's. Alas it is very sensitive to heat, and even well taken care of they have a near 100% failure rate somewhere around 80,000 miles and up. Sometimes less if mistreated. The transmission was eventually dropped from the Justy line for the last 94 model. It does live on in japanese micro cars, but the original design was not up to the weight of the Justy. It is totally unlike any normal "transmission". It's driven by electromagnets, and a metallic "dust" using some weird cone shaped things. It's a real disaster inside, and it was so complex that it's not even dealer serviceable. They can only replace them. Unfortunately the replacement transmissions are impossible to find, and when you can get one the cost is close to $5,000 for a NOS or factory rebuilt unit. Far more than the car is worth. GD

Besides the ECVT being a ticking timebomb of complete self-destruction...... oil pumps are also a problem. Usually what killed most justy's. But the ECVT will get you before the pump probably. 7 years? I give that transmission 1000 miles or less before you are stranded. GD

I found out the weakness of the reverse gear's the hard way at the show this weekend. Blew mine completely in the mud pit. Luckliy I didn't have to reverse on the trip home. The problem (according to somone that's had them apart a number of times) is that the gear doesn't fully engage because the shift linkage is out of alignment. The shifter can also push the gear too far off the far end. The reverse set is a straight cut gearset, and when it's run without being fully engaged like that it will wear the edges of the gear teeth, and eventually strip the gear set. The 5 speed's are a lot better - not because their gearset is different - but because the linkage is superior. GD