GeneralDisorder

Purolator is ok apparently, but according to everything I've heard, WIX stands out as having a full, quality line of fitlers. And they are Napa's OEM as well, so are almost universally availible. Fram is universally considered to be junk. GD

Yeah - welding cables are good - then solder the copper ends on to them. You need to use a torch for the solder operation.... Or I just generally get the napa ones with the molded ends on them - far superior from stock (at least they are copper not aluminium), and the molded lead ends are alright if you fashion a washer to go under the nut so it doesn't destroy them when you tighten them down. GD

I always pull the radiator cause I have bid hands and it's cramped in there if I don't, and I don't like bashing the fins in with wrenches and such. Don't touch the condensor - there is no need. You do all the work from the top or the bottom. GD

Tighten your axle nuts. And inspect the hub splines for wear. GD

That's pretty much it - on some models, depending on which you get the harness from, some of the power supplys are already wired to one another, so in practice (mine came from a 90 Loyale) I have the fusible link, and 3 20amp ignition controled circuits for everything else. There is also the light green/white wire that gets power ONLY when cranking. GD

Yes - it means a power source that is only turned on when the ignition switch is in the On and Start positions. GD

Sure - I didn't say it couldn't be done. And I've seen that custom EA81. Everything I said is there - lots of welding, milling, and fab work. There's a kit made for the Audi A6 my friend has that is a low pressure system - runs at 4 lbs with standard NA pistons.... Still, I wouldn't bother with the EA82, it's far from bolt on, and most "kits" you can buy are in the range of $3,000 to $4,000.... FAR, FAR more than the car is worth. You could easily purchase three or four cars for that money that would already have the horses you would gain, or a WRX front clip.... which IS a bolt in (more or less - LOTS of bolts, but still....) GD

Not on the EA82. And all later engines are distributor-less. GD

Extraordinarily appropriate, yet delicately effective. A must for anyone seeking massive "tunar p0war". The order is in - I'll be sporting one at the show - how about you? GD

Lots of fabrication, TIG welding, lathe and mill skills. Totally not worth the effort for that engine. The pistons can't handle even the measly 7 lbs of boost the stock turbo engines put out. How many N/A short blocks do people have to blow up?.... He asked for bolt-on, and polluted the post-stream with more totally useless jabber that intelligent people will have to sort through when they SEARCH for things. Have to admit - his lack of basic mechanical insight is funnay tho. GD

Is there some other kind? Hey! Where's my supercharger glue? I'm forever losing that stuff..... GD

Did you clean the groove on the cam carrier mating surface of all the old sealant and apply about a bit less than a 1/8" bead of RTV to the groove? Sounds like either that, or the o-ring slipped and got wedged in there or something. The cover itself should not leak unless it's not seated properly - but if all the bolts are in then that's unlikely. At this point if you can't see the source clearly, get some castrol super clean (purple bottle) and degrease the whole area. Then run it and see what you find. Oh and in reposnse to your question on quantity, yes - that much oil is definately present. I've run them without the cover in place (diagnostic situation) and you need a catch pan for all the oil. It makes a HUGE mess if you don't. GD

LOL GD

My point was that it's not HIS car, so in this case not his decision to make. Reason? He's posting pictures of a collector car on a car enthusiast forum. Do the math. Auto theft isn't something I would take many risks with - and again - not his car, so whiteing out the plate protects the poster, and the owner in this case. GD

For her sake, you should probably white out her plate information in the pics. GD

Those numbers mean nothing to me - need part numbers. Probably right about the R and L. You can use any knuckles from an EA82 - which is all wagons, 3 door coupes and sedans from 1985 to 1989, and ALL Loyales from 1990 to 1994. You will not be able to use any parts from "another model" it will have to be an EA82 based vehicle. There should be plenty of them in the junk yards around you - and there are many board members in CA that may have some. If all else fails, I can easily get a set from the yards around here. Not light, so shipping wouldn't be cheap. The Knuckle is not a wear item - the problem you have is because of bad previous maintenance. I have actually never seen that happen - probably wasn't tightened down properly by someone. GD

$1 per gallon - so about when Clinton was last in office. Good times, good times. GD

Actually any EA81 or EA82 Turbo pump will work. GD

Wow - that's the like the twin of mine. Same year and color. Except I still need body work and paint. Gotta love the marina blue tho. GD

Looks like the mains are about .10mm oil clearance (possibly more on the center bearing - book max is .025mm), and the #4 rod bearing was pretty out of round - with a max oil clearance around .13mm. The horizontal surfaces of that bearing have actually begun to wear through the bearing surface to the softer metal underneath. Book max on the rods claims .10mm max but even that seems like a lot. At any rate all the bearings are obviously way out of spec - in the case of the mains 4 times over the max, and possibly more in places. Probably safe to say my knock was one of those.... So next step is to degrease the entire mess, and start the reassembly with my new parts. GD

Good thought - checked the thrust and there is no play there at all. Upon further inspection, the #4 rod bearing looks pretty wasted. So it's got bad mains, and one bad rod bearing - probably the source of my knocking. I'll get a measurement of that here shortly.... GD

Sounds like lifter tick (TOD) to me. CHANGE the oil and filter. Check for leaks and R&R the PCV system to make sure the engine isn't just drinking all your oil on left hand turns. GD

Get a brass drift punch and get to work. Don't need a press. Do a search for bearing replacement - it's been covered weekly for years on here. GD

Pressure plate and flywheel are most likely fine - just replace the disc itself. Only take about 2 hour, and you don't have to pull the engine even. Just remove the radiator, unbolt the engine - lift and pull forward. There is enough room to do everything with the engine in there. GD

Thread some 1/4" nylon rope into cylinder #1 with it at BDC. A dozen feet of rope in the cylinder will stop the engine from rotating safely and allow you to remove the pully with a breaker bar. Sticking things in the flywheel is crappy if they break, or fall into the bell-housing. And isn't possible with an auto. Incidentally, you need a BIG impact to remove the 22mm pulley bolt. My 1/2" impact can't do it. And besides that mess, you still need access to it in order to use the impact. I'm not usually in the mood to remove the radiator, grill, and AC evap core if equipped. To heck with that mess. GD