GeneralDisorder

Doh - yeah that's what I meant. GD

83 already has a filter/vapor seperator right before the carb. The Hitachi is just a crappy design - the jets are sunk into the bottom of the float bowl. On the Weber they are lifted up about 1/4" so crap in the fuel or particulates that make it through the air filter cannot clog the jets. Make sure the float needle and seat aren't sticking - I've found this before on Hitachi's. GD

Yeah - it was an "order only" option that way tho - extremely rare. Oh - and you AUS and NZ guys do have a random assortment - like the Brumby being 3.7..... ALL 3.9 here. Best to check the tag on the diff, but here in the states you will find as stated above that most 5spd D/R's with 2WD (can test this by putting it in gear and watching the rear output while turning the input shaft) will be 3.9. The few exceptions are the 86/87 RX transmissions etc...... if it came from a turbo it's 3.7 GD

Wagon's are MUCH, MUCH more common (with discs), so likely that's what you'll get anyway. I really doubt it would make that much difference on the EA82 - even the drums have the valve (different proportion, but at least it has one), so the phenomena is not nearly as pronounced. If you want to be safe just get the valve from whatever car you get the discs from. GD

Turn the engine on it's side and be real careful and slow about how you do it. With enough time and patience it should find it's way in there. I generally split the block and use a bent coat hanger with a hook on it to hold the wrist pin up - but I don't pull pistons unless I intend to split the block. GD

Just hit up a radiator shop - they should have a large selection on hand. Something will fit. GD

Won't fit - wrong bell-housing. GD

You don't - you will have to rotate the crank to remove each wrist pin. You'll pretty much have to split the block to do the job - it's very difficult to remove the piston from it's bore without splitting the block. No - bore/stroke are the same, as is displacement. The SPFI pistons have dish marks for the valves, and the EA81 has a gear driven cam so there is no possibility of a valve strike. SPFI is 9.5:1 stock, so don't mill much off the heads or you'll have to run premium fuel. GD

No - EA81 disty should work - provided you change the drive gear to fit the EA82. GD

Updated my list - check out page 1. GD

I generally run the stock 8 degrees myself, or maybe a little less as my heads are milled a bit on one engine. GD

Same car I got the brakes from. 88 FT4WD Turbo Automatic Sedan IIRC. My 86 carbed sedan has one too - even with the rear drums. I'm sure it's a different "proportion" but it's there. EA81's (in the states) never had any form of proportioning control, but the front discs are much smaller as are the calipers. I'm guessing the fact the rear drums are not very powerful (and usually out of adjustment), and the small discs they just don't need them. GD

140 primary 140 secondary 170 primary air corrector 160 secondary air corrector Both venturi's should be 3.5 Your idle jets are fine. I've never seen any difference in the emulsion tubes - I'm sure they make different ones, but all the weber's I've messed with were 50?? I think. Remove that anit-stall thing - don't need it. Remove your anti-afterburn valve, and your air injection reed valves - not needed unless you need them for air quality. Getting the deiseling to stop is all about timing, and idle mixture/speed. If you have the idle speed too high, or the timing off, this will happen. Easy way to stop it is to get the anti-deisel solenoid that Weber makes for the main idle jet. But you really don't need it if you tune it right. Acceleration flat spot is either the jets (probably) or could also be a bad accelerator pump. GD

Rings are not the same. You'll need to make or buy a tool to remove the wrist pins, and you'll need a 14mm external hex socket to get the plugs out of the block. If you want higher comp. get EA82 SPFI pistons. The EA71 pistons are not very much taller - maybe 10 thousandths. They also have a lot weaker ring lands. GD

No such thing You'll have to retrofit the drive gear for an EA82 to the EA71 points disty, and modify the mounting tab for it to bolt down and be properly adjustable. GD

Lots of us have them - you have to pull a rear axle on pavement or you will snap axle joints with big tires. Smaller tires you will just get a lot of chirping and binding around corners - still hard on the joints, and better to pull one. GD

We have a winner! That's exactly what mine did - only on wet pavement. I installed the valve and she brakes 100% straight. GD

If you are putting the discs on an EA81 then yes - you need the valve. EA81's have no proportioning control at all. I've said it before, but people on here refuse to listen. I did a skid test with my Brat (not lifted) and the difference is pretty scary without the valve. There's really a lot more differences than people here realize - for example there are two sizes of rear discs - wagon/coupe and sedan. For some reason the sedan got smaller rear calipers. This also means different proportioning control as hinted at above.... GD

That's what we are trying to determine - the pattern. Actually it seems that they may have "rolled over" - hit the 1,000,000 mark sometime in '82. Hence the 01/82 of 931272, and the 04/82 of 009899. GD

Outside edge tread wear is almost always due to bad ball joints. In a turn the looseness in the ball joint allows the force on the tire to tuck it under slightly on turns - causing the tire to ride up on it's edge. GD

Intake and all attached bits, disty, ECU, Complete forward wireing harness and the relays and fuse panel and junk that's attached to it under the dash (by FAR the hardest to pull), and the disty. Don't need the alt - EA81/82 are pretty much the same (50/55 amp). As for attaching the gear - Some have welded it - I lined it up very carefully and drilled a new pin hole with my $40 harbor frieght drill press. The bit I used was very slightly larger than the original hole which worked out good as the new hole in the disty and the gear (I drilled through both at the same time) were the same size. I took the original spring roll pin and used a large flat wood chisel with a sharp edge to drive the roll pin apart a little a make it big enough to fit snug in the new hole. Then you have to cut off one mounting tab (I used a band saw), and remove part of the metal plate covering the wiring on the bottom of the disty. That's as far as I've got so far - had a little issue with brake shoes on my sedan so had to unexpectedly drive my EA81 for a few days before I had time to fix the brakes. I'm actually planning to work on it more today. GD

Float needle and seat are sticking in the closed or partially closed position. I've had that on a couple of Hitachi's. Very annoying. Some rebuild kits are poor quality. Could be a short in the fuel pump circuit or a bad fuel pump control unit too. GD

Those numbers look pretty decent - and there is not enough difference between the low cylinder and high cylinder to cause any sort of noticeable vibration. Ideally you would want no more than 10% difference, but 15% is fine - it's probably a valve seat on that cylinder - the rings seem to be wearing in quite well. As long as your fluids are good, it sounds like you are a good to go on the engine itself. Your vibration is in the drivetrain - no doubt about it. It's most likely directly related to your "new" axles. Personally I use the ones made by GCK Industrial, but even though they are generally VERY good and strong, a friend of mine had the exact symtoms you are having after installing a pair. He reverted to his old axles and all was well again - he went with rebilt units for that car. I have had no problems..... other than a slight increase in vibration on my lifted wagon - same type - accelerating in first gear..... and I suspect he got one bad axle in the two he ordered. It only takes a small mis-calculation in machineing, or accidentally using the wrong joint parts off the shelf when assembling it.... GD

Your corning is of course somewhat dependant on the height, but it will corner like the turd it is unless you: 1. Add a rear sway bar from a Turbo EA82 2. Convert to front EA82/XT6 hybrid 5 lug suspension so you can make the front sway BIG. 3. Lower profile, wider tires - less sidewall flex. Add some more offset to your rim choice to widen the track too. 4. And the LAST thing you do is lower it (this is mostly for less drag really), and stiffen the springs. If you just cut the springs it has, you'll still get nearly the same amount of body roll as there is NO rear sway bar, a teensy tiny front sway bar, a suspension made of chewing gum bushings, and springs made like a slinky. The hatch is so increddibly light anyway, that lowering it's already low center of gravity (remember this is a boxer engine with a transaxle) probably won't be noticeable. But just adding a rear sway bar will make it corner like a slot car. GD