GeneralDisorder

I'm with you on the bad PCV valve. Too much pressure in the crankcase and you blew out some seals. The bolt I would write off as already being loose, and maybe the addition of all that oil (from the bad seals) and heat caused it to work it's way out. Is that a replacement engine? If not it's a solid lifter motor..... your valves could be out of adjustment, or it could be a bad bearing maybe - the ticking noise that is. I would get some oil in it, and see if that helps first. GD

I say both. Since he already has the wagon - keep it and chop it. As was said before - he's 90, and you can get some great quality time out of a project like that. I know my grandfather tought me a LOT about mechanics and just generally fixing things by the seat of my pants. Bailing wire, and a welder. hehe I don't think you would have too many rigidity issues if you leave the roof on it over the front passengers. You might have to reinforce the sides of the "bed" to keep it from flexing over bumps and stuff. And get him a cherry Brat too - sounds like he deserves it. There out there - if you stick to this board long enough, one will come up that's perfect. I've only been here a year, and I can't even count all the Brat's that have sold through the board in that time. GD

Well - that happens to be a pic of MY shifter after I fixed that problem. She's tight as a drum now. The problem with trying to get new parts is that it's not the roll pin that's worn - it's the hole in the shifter itself that's worn. Not cheap, and probably not even easy to get. Cutting the slot, and putting in the 3/8" bolt is way easier, and will probably last the life of the car. Although I must admit that doing the repair with the transmission out of the car made it more trivial. Working under there with power tools sounds like more of a pain. GD

Solution: http://usmb.net/gallery/GeneralDisorders-Subaru-Pictures/shifter_play_fix GD

Well - I drill in Portland 33rd and Marine drv. - We have our christmas party next drill on Saturday - the 6th I think. What weekend is yours? GD

Everyone says get em from the dealer...... I just change my oil more often personally. I change my oil in the wagon after every off-road run - especially if it's been in water.... The Brat gets it every 1000 miles or so. Sometimes as much as 1500. The more often the better. And as long as you change them often, then the filter doesn't matter too much. Think I've got a WIX air filter on the Brat right now - seems fine. Better than the rag that was over the intake before..... heh GD

Then you can call it a "1985 _____ Traction Wagon" (Turbo removed for sanity purposes) HAHAHAHAHAHA. GD

Dude - EA81 time. Turbo's are cool.... just not for off-road. Unless they are brand new. Always problems with them. GD

Hehe - you think *yours* was mint when you started..... Hehehehe. You remember mine don't you Junkie? Velour interrior, power everything, digi-dash, straight body..... now it doesn't have carpet, and the doors close a little funny cause of all the wheel well beating...... it's just a wagon - who cares. I can always get another. I'm gonna beat my wagon down till it can't drive off the trail one day, and isn't worth fixing. At which point it will be dragged out and parted. (evil laugh here). I'll put all it's good parts into a hatch - rinse, repeat. GD

http://usmb.net/gallery/album72/1980_b Which one Zap? The Bottom or the top? It's always confusing cause somtimes people call the large sqaure ones "round" cause they are sort of oblong shaped really. This brochure only shows the DL with the large square ones. It's STD model has the round ones, and 4WD too! I really want a STD hatch just so I can have those headlights! They looks so cool. GD

Agreed - met him personally, and have bought from him too. GD

Was there a STD wagon?? GD

It's just paint dude - can always be redone. GD

The only one with round headlights on a Gen 2 was the STD model hatchback. GD

Yeah - I'm also curious what that cost to have done? My Brat is a bit crooked (tailgate doesn't shut quite right). Looks similar to some of the damage on mine - maybe a lot of it could be pulled out like yours.... GD

If you do get it, then go for a rebuilt short block from CCR. Heard nothing but good things about their engines. The guys are right - I'm just cheap, and most of the time I get non-running soobs for free, or VERY cheap. I'm probably an exception tho. $300 is not bad if the rest of the car is nice. And has been pointed out, switching an engine is really no big deal. If you have been looking for a long time, and you like it, then grab it. It's not an automatic is it? Stay away from them if you can. 157k would be nearing the end of the line for an auto. 200k seems to be their magic number. More if they are cared for - but then you don't know it's history, so you have to assume the worst probably. GD

I emailed him - if he sends them to me, I'll have Junkie post them in the repair manual. GD

That's really cool. Had that same thing happen to a luitenant a while back. Someone forgot to bend the tab down on the castle washer for the gear reduction hub's stub axle. Whole axle fell out (with wheel attached) going down the freeway. That was not a happy day. GD

This the same mechanic friend that said you can't lift a soob? Your engine is running yes? Then it's salvageable most likely. Probably blew a headgasket or cracked a head is all. You would have to get one insanely hot to actually hurt the block. The melting point of aluminium BTW, is 1220.58 degrees. If your cooling system was working even a little bit, you could not possibly reach that temp I don't think. Of course if the engine were run without any cooling system at all - possibly. But the thing would seize before it melted I think. GD

WOOHOO! I'm positive I can rip the bumper off an XT! :cool: J/K - don't want to offend any XT people out there. Seriously tho - I'm with Qman - 4WD or AWD is the WHOLE POINT of this outing. If you don't have access to a car with one of these sytems (doesn't have to be a Subaru), and you can't find a ride with someone who does, then perhaps you should stay at home - or I guess you can leave the Volvo in the parking lot, and run - got some snow shoes? Hehe. I say we outright ban non-4WD and non-AWD vehicles from the off-road portion of this outing right now. What does everyone think about that? Anyone got a reason we shouldn't? GD

Go ahead and pull the radiator - it's just two bolts, and the hoses. And the electrical connector for your fan(s). Good time for a coolant flush and hose check if nothing else. EA81's are sooo easy to work on. GD

They can handle heat alright - it's the heads that can't. I've never heard of permanent damage by overheating other than cracking heads. GD

Cracked block? Never heard of that happening before. If the engine is really toast - $300 seems a bit high unless the rest is in superb condition. If you have to replace the engine, it's going to end up costing you a couple hundred more for a turbo short block that doesn't need rebuilding. For that price $500 total - you could get one that doesn't need anything. It's more likely the heads tho - which do crack easily on the Turbo's if you don't watch the temp. Still a pain, and more money. 87 Turbo wagons are by no means rare either. Offer him $175, then maybe $200. If he doesn't go for it - walk away and let him find another sucker. GD

Hrrmmm - true. I'll get some slack on the tow line, and take a running start! I bet the bumper gives before I move that tank. I think what Zap is trying to say is that we want to be absolved of all responsiblilty for what happens to a RWD tank with no ground clearance if it tries to follow us. But of course your welcome to try. And I will probably pull you out (if your not too annoying). Any damage I cause in the process tho.... well that's not my problem. Oh yeah - thanks again for saving my bacon with your AAA. I'm going to get AAA. Hopefully I can return the favor sometime. GD

Funny that you use "FE" - he might not know that this is the abbreviation for iron in chemistry (latin maybe???). Noah is right on tho - back when it was popular to use aluminium heads on cast iron blocks, head gaskets became a real issue. Another interesting thing about those engines. Since you have two dissimilar metals, touching the same body of liquid (coolant), you have a battery weather you like it or not. This is the reason for zinc in your anti-freeze. The zinc takes the errosion from the electrostatic discharge on your engine instead of it eating away the aluminium in your heads. This is why anti-freeze needs to be changed at least once every two years EVEN if it tests good with a hydrometer. The zinc will be gone, and there will be no protection against this type of corrosion. Just something VERY few people know in my experience. GD