GeneralDisorder

Yep - if they are far enough out of adjustment, they will not engage at all. GD

what are those specs for? Tourqe? HP? Something in-between? GD

You might have blown an ASV, and sucked a bunch of plastic into the carb - sounds plausible. Maybe not tho. Don't take it to a shop! There's plenty of us board members around that could help you fix it yourself..... GD

Yeah - same in Oregon - John has driven the Beast (12" hatch with 35's) around town in Eugene - they don't care. My wagon drives around all the time - no one cares. GD

The only lifts that you can buy are from either Austrailia, or from PKDavis ( http://www.ozified.com/ ) who makes the same thing licensed from a company in Austrailia. The largest lift he offers is a 4/3 lift (4" in front, 3" in rear). If your friend wants bigger than that, he'll have to make it himself, or contact someone like Mudrat79 (John) who does custom lifts (he lifted mine - check out my pictures in the gallery). He's here in Oregon, so he could easily do the car and deliver it to you in Washington I'm sure. He did a great job on my 3" lift, and he has a hatch just like your friends that has 12" of lift, and runs 35's - he took it on the Rubicon.... GD

Ok - just put the quarters to use in my ASV system, and the backfires are COMPLETELY gone. I talked to Mudrat on the phone, and he informed me that the actualy problem is likely the exhaust gaskets, or a hole in the Y pipe before the cat. This is sucking air into the exhaust stream and coupled with the air from the ASV system, is enough to cause the backfireing. Take away the ASV - problem is gone. Fix the exhaust leaks - problem also gone. So now I'll need to be putting on a muffler, and when I do, I can take a look for holes, and replace the gaskets. Also - the quarters fit well in the ASV body itself, on the head side. You can just slip a quarter down past the threads, and then thread the pipe back on the valve - thus disabling the system without really removing it. Good if you want to pass emmisions later on, but don't want to fix a bad ASV right now, or fix exhaust problems. Really neato trick actually - Thanks Ken. This one should go into the repair manual...... GD

I should have one - you need it with a radio, or without? GD

On that console - you need 2WD?, 4WD?, Auto?. I might have a 4WD one around here..... GD

Well snowman is mostly correct - the ASV (or ASV's) is roughly where he described, and it could be on either side - passenger or driver, or both. Also - on EA81's, it's not inside of anything - it's just sitting there by itself - couple of bolts hold it to the intake manifold. It could also have a vacuum line attached to the top of it. From it, there is a hose connecting to a black plastic houseing, which is sort of a muffler for the valve. If you remove this muffler from the valve with the engine running, you will hear the difference - it's MUCH louder. This is also where you should put the qaurter. I have yet to try it - I've been at National Guard drill all day today, and now I'm tired..... I don't think the cause of the problem is actually the ASV's, but rather an effect brought on by them working correctly, and introducing too much unburnt oxygen into the exhaust stream. If this oxygen is not used by the cat, then it causes an explosive mixture of fuel and air in the tailpipe - which spontaneously ignites when exposed to the hot exhaust. I have a feeling the problem is actually several things - possibly a weak cat, combined with a carb that is running too rich. My EGR is fine, and my anti-backfire solenoid checks out, so that is my hypothesis at this point. We'll see if reducing the amount of oxygen in the exhaust by blocking the ASV helps or not. I think if it does, I will simply remove the system entirely. GD

I think I see what you mean - the quarter blocks the ASV from taking in any air right? I'll try that out tomarrow - in fact, I'll have to block off both ASV's I suppose in order to fully test that theory. Thanks for the tip. GD

I've got REALLY horrible backfireing on the Brat - I've removed, cleaned, and checked the operation of the EGR valve - looks good, and works good. I've removed, cleaned and checked the operation of the anti-backfire soleniod - also should be fine. I recently blew an air suction valve, and had to replace that, and the silencer as it was melted. Those seem to be working fine, but some plastic got sucked into the carb.... I dug out all the plastic I could see, and she runs fine now - except for the backfireing. The backfires are so bad, that my passenger the other day thought he had been shot, and it's blown about five VERY LARGE holes in the muffler. What to do? Time for a weber? I had small backfireing on my wagon, and when I put the weber on, it all went away - never heard another peep out of it. I don't really have the money for a weber right now - can anyone recommend a good brand of rebuild kit for the hitachi? I can rebuild it myself, and have some experience along those lines, but I don't know where to get the rebuild kit. Also - specifically what in the carb could be blocked that would cause this backfireing? I'm guessing some plastic has eluded me...... GD

Did you get the carbs and the manifold too? I wasn't aware that there were any differences in the dual carb engines..... but I guess it's possible - please document any differences you find for us. GD

I installed the weber before the tires. Even with the weber, it's basically like driving a truck. I have to go to 4500 RPM before shifting, and if theres any serious hills on the freeway, I have to get over and let people by - and sometimes even go into third. On most one ramps, it takes the whole thing to get to 55 (reads out as 46 MPH on my guage now). It doesn't have bad acceleration - just drives like a truck - you won't be laying down any rubber with them. I can't spin the tires no matter how hard I try. If I got a better clutch, I think I might be able to chrip em. Don't be afraid of doing it - it's not all that bad. I can do 75 on the freeway if there's no major hills. Before the tires, I could lay down rubber for half a block, and then chirp em going into second - but I have a very good engine too. Low miles, and well cared for. GD

WHOA! I said nothing about emmissions systems. The muffler does NOTHING for emmisions. It is for noise control only. Take it off. I mentioned the smog testing because they will not pass you without a muffler - but because of noise control, not emmisions. I myself am anti-suv - good for you! 400 miles to a tanks is incredibly awsome! And it works out to over 25 MPG. That's great if your getting that kind of mileage. Your fuel tank capacity is in the neighborhood of 15.5 or 15.3 or something like that. The 4WD tanks are smaller. Throttle coil??!?...... to my knowledge there is no such thing. Try adjusting the idle speed screw on the carb. Stock rims are 13". Soobs of our era rarely came with 14's - they would be worth a good deal of money - more than your car. And 15's don't exist to my knowledge. Unless of course you are talking about pug rims..... GD

Just remove your steering wheel, and turn it over - no problem. GD

I have heard from reliable sources that there was indeed a turbo justy. Don't think I have seen one, but I believe the person who told me about them. GD

The EA81 is the 1800cc - the EA71 is the 1600cc. It's the stroke - the bore sizes are the same. You can use EA71 pistons and rods in an EA81 to increase compression. GD

check this post: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2576&highlight=axle+removal Ed has a great writeup in there on it. GD

The EA81T is a RARE engine - came in only 83 and 84 wagons, Brats, and coupes - and only some of them. It's VERY different than a regular EA81 car. The battery is on the other side, the cross-member is different, etc. etc. It will bolt to the trans, but that is about the only thing it will bolt to. You'll want the whole car for an EA81T conversion. The engine is so rare, that even finding replacement parts is nearly impossible, so it really isn't such a good choice. The EA82T came in cars from 85 to 91 (?) here in the states. Tons of them out there in the yards for cheap - replacement parts are easy to get. Oh - and the LSD's were 3.7 - you have to convert them to 3.9 using a ring gear from a normal rear end. There's a bit of grinding and fitting involved, but it will go in. The company he refers to is Phantom Grip I belive that does the front diffs. GD

I'm running 28's on toyota rims on my 84 wagon. With some trimming, you should be fine. Mine are 215/75R15's which are 27.7" OD. GD

Actually - with a properly tuned engine, the 2WD 5 speeds are pretty darn quick. The weber helps a lot with low end torque, but the EA81 will spin the tires easily in 1st for a half a block, and chirp em going into 2nd. The last one I had would do that, and had 316k on the clock. The weber will do you some good on the low end, and just take the muffler off completely - you don't need one as it isn't that loud without it, and you can't beat a straight pipe for flow! You also live in an area outside of smog testing, so that's no problem at all for you. People always ask me what I did to make the exhaust sound so good..... "well - the muffler fell off about a year ago....." If you want better acceleration, you need to get the clutch to lockup harder - you could put at 4WD clutch and flywheel in it. They are an inch bigger around. Will bolt right in..... Also partly how you drive it - rev it to 4 or 5K and drop the clutch - it will move - beleive me.... Assuming the engine is hitting hard enough. GD

pretty sure nothing would be hurt by roll starting the engine - should be fine. Don't worry about adjustment - just get it tight, and it will work fine. You just don't want any slop in the cable. I just make it tight enough that I can't move the shifter fork by hand. And make sure to tighten the stop nut down REALLY tight. If that works loose, your in a heap-o-trouble. GD

You probably won't be able to get out of your own way... Still very cool that your have that 78 - restore it, and don't drive it much...... GD

You can do it, it will be the same as the wagon. The tranny tunnel on the 2WD manual's is REALLY small, and you will have to cut and beat to get even the 4 speed in. The five speed would be a nightmare from hell to fit into a 2WD manual tranny tunnel. I think the 2WD auto's were bigger - possibly. Even still - you will have to beat on it for a 5 speed. Possibly not for a 4 speed if it's an auto. I never did get mine right - I lifted it instead and solved the problem that way. Check out the pics on my conversion: http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo57 http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo55 You have to cut the shifter hole bigger, and mount the 4WD lever. The front struts are different, the sway bar is different, and the whole exhaust from the Y back is different. Here's a parts list I put together (more parts like the pedal assembly would be needed for an auto swap): 4WD gas tank 4WD rear torsion bar and trailing arms. Rear diff / diff hanger / diff hanger brackets Rear axles Rear drum brake assembly, and axle ends Driveline Transmission 4WD Rear exhaust heat shield (there's a cutout for the diff hanger bracket) Complete exhaust (at least from the Y pipe back) 4WD front struts 4WD front sway bar 4WD shifter, and shifter mount (welded in, but the welds can be drilled out) 4WD interior console's and boots (and their mounting brackets on the floorpan) All the nuts and bolts for all these parts If you have any detailed questions - PM me. GD

Caleb has the idea. Read the previous post. I'm not giving you bullsh!t, I'm just telling you that you are wasting your time and money trying to turbo a carbed EA81 that was never meant for it. It is my opinion - please treat it as such. And please don't compare soobs to civics - they are competely different - they have little more in common besides being 4 cylinder passenger cars. You CAN bolt an EA82 to your car - in fact it's so easy it's almost pathetic. There will be about 1/2" between the cam covers and your frame rails - you don't even need to cut, it's just a drop in conversion, using the same engine mounts, and just a mix/match of clutch components. This goes for the EA82T (Turbo version) as well. If you really want to turbo a carb - go ahead, but please start with an EA82 turbo block. It's built for it already. Make yourself a custom intake for it to mount those side drafts, and go to town. Trying to use an EA81 would be a waste of your money as you would have to completely redesign the entire motor. The EA82T block is already running boost friendly components, and has the correct compression ratio for boosting. Not to mention the overhead cams. I agree that it's cool to learn new things. I don't personally feel that turboing a carb is worth the trouble, as it's really just as easy to run a small supercharger with a carb, and you'll get more power, and easier tuning. The Turbo is really meant for MPFI. If your going to the trouble of manufacturing manifolds, why not do it right, and go with a blower? GD Oh - and Caleb - "Just bolting in" the EA81T (if you can find one) sounds simpler than it really is...... You really need the whole front clip of the car for that conversion....... Just sent one to John (Mudrat) so he can build a turbo Brat :-)