GeneralDisorder

Easy to fix that silly ECS light (I had the same prob when I went to a weber), just pop the cluster out, and remove it's bulb. hehe. Cool trick on the disty Miles.... GD

Cool Skip - I don't look at many EA82's - but most of the ones I see are SPFI or feedback carb. Could be that a lot came from Cali a few years ago. Heck - my 84 was a feedback too. My Brat isn't (thank god), and it passes emmisions around here same as the feedback version did. I should dig up my test report from when I first got the 84 wagon, and compare it to the Brat's report to see if there are any noticeable differences. Skip is right on looking for the O2 - that is a much better way to tell - thanks Skip. But if he's not seeing the ECU and it WAS an SPFI or MPFI..... I would guess it wouldn't run at all right? So it virtually *must* be a regular carb I would think.... I want pics too. GD

wow - I didn't know they had non-feedback carbs in the EA82's. But yeah - if you have no 'puter in there, it means you don't have a feedback carb, and you don't need the 'puter. You'll have to track down your rough idle the old fashioned way. It's most likely your carb. The Hitachi's are rather infamous about working that way. You can get a rebuilt unit, but the cost is near to what a good weber would cost, so unless you live in a place where a weber just won't do, then there's not much sense in getting a rebuilt Hitachi. Also you could rebuild it yourself, but they are notoriously difficult to work with. Most shops won't even touch them. GD

That's what the seatbelts and roll bars are for. In fact - it says right in the owners manual that if you plan on going anywhere but pavement, the roll bar is sugested when people are occupying the rear seats. GD

Yeah - never even heard of anyone wearing those gears out. I suppose it's possible, but the block would wear out long before this, and cease to run. GD

Yep - that would be a STD (lower model than the DL even) grill on Gen 2's - they had 2 sealed dual beam's that were round - DL's had 2 sealed dual beam square's, and GL's had the 4 square single beams sealed lights. And of course as stated - all Gen 1's. GD

French - Belgian - isn't that the same thing?? hehehe But ok - you have a point. My problem with it is that it doesn't seem to be very reliable, and from my cursory inspection of it (we don't have them - only 249's), seemed to be a bit heavier than the M60. I know the M60 was an old design, but why change it if it works? The M60 was shorter (I think), lighter (I think), and was extremely reliable. The SAW - well first I wasn't happy about giving up my 60, and then they tell me I can use M16 mag's in it..... ok, fine - but at least design it so it doesn't jam with them. Ok - I understand that the feed spring in the mags isn't strong enough to feed at the rate needed by the SAW..... so SLOW DOWN THE SAW when it's using mags. Maybe the M249A1 will have this?!? I sure hope so. Would help the problem of using a 16 mag in 3 seconds too. It's bad enough that you are out of belts, but must they jam the damn thing with the emergency ammo too? You would do more damage with a 249 and a 16 mag if you fed it to them, or jamed it up their a$$. I looked on their site.... how can the P90 replace the M16? It only has an effective range of 200m. They better not hand me that peice of dook - I'll feed it to someone. Never mind putting me in combat with it - it'll be a$$holes and elbows all the way to the rear. No way I'm going up against some crazed AK toteing arab carrying *THAT*. Crazy - simply crazy. GD

Well - all EA81 turbo's came with the auto 4WD tranny, so that is in fact not a rumor. As to being only in wagons, I don't know. Never seen a turbo-10 either. I'm guessing most of those have already blown a digi-dash, and went to the crush-pile. In fact - I'll bet that's what did in many a turbo wagon or Brat - dash goes, and after a while the owner just sends them off the JY. Cost too much for a dash (or can't get one at all), and who want's a car with no guages? There's a few turbo's around (very few) with analog dash's, so those are still with us, but the digi's are getting hard to find from 83, 84. GD

archemitis is correct - they are technically different things. It is kind of a gray area really - depending on many factors, but they do effect one another. With an exhaust that is too large, you will have no back pressure, and also no scavenging, because the engine cannot fill the passageway for any scavenging to take effect - even if there were an artificial venturi in the passage, it would have no noticeable speed-up effect on the gasses because the amount of gasses would be too small. If the exhaust is too small, then you have back pressure. The idea is to minimize back pressure and to get an adequate amount of scavenging effect. Changing the size of the exhaust in fact changes both quantities. My bad - I was trying to explain it as simply as possible, and used the incorrect terminology, but I still think that is the answer he was looking for. Surely he can't *really* be saying that back pressure is a myth? That doesn't make sense.... potato up the tail pipe for example - not a myth as far as I can see. Scavenging is the word we both should have used, and I should have pointed that out to begin with. GD

You have been told wrong - back pressure (scavenging is the technical term) is extremely important. A slight restriction on the exhaust causes a venturi effect on the gasses. They speed up as they enter this restriction, and help the "pull" in the next fuel / air charge - that is why for a very short time between the exhaust and intake strokes both valves are open. This alows a complete flow from the intake to the muffler, and the scavenging takes place at that time. Whoever "told" you that, needs to read up on modern engine theory. That principle has only been in use for the last 60 years or so.... GD

Geez Skipper - is that a .30 cal I see on there? So like.... did you hump that baby around the hedge rows in WWII? sniff..... sniff.... I smell photoshop.... GD

M60? That's gone if you don't know - been replaced (sadly) with the M240B - a french made, heavy peice of crapola. GD

You need some sort of cross over pipe to equalize the exhaust pressure. You will almost certainly lose HP with a real dual exhaust. They sound neat, but are impractical on our engines. Don't know about the cat issue - don't much care for them myself.... GD

WagonsOnly - you must be talking about EA82's cause I have an 84 wagon with just about everything - not badged tho. Digidash, PW, PM, CC, AC, Velour interior, sunroof. It WAS a 2WD 5 speed, but is now a 4 speed D/R 4WD with 3" custom lift Oh - and has anyone actually seen an EA81 wagon that was badged as a GL-10? I want pics, cause I have never seen one, and I don't believe they existed. I have seen coupe's, and sedans - plenty of them in fact, but NEVER a GL-10 wagon in the Gen 2 body style. Maybe I just haven't seen one? GD

There are several types of CC used in the EA81's. I would make sure the kit fits both styles of dash's - there's tilt wheel, and non-tilt wheel style's. Also - since it's for an 88, the wiring may be slightly different, but I'm sure that it's doable in that respect. What type of carb does your 84 have? I don't know if there is anything specific throttle linkage wise, but if you have the carter / weber single barrel, then you might have problems (I don't know for sure), cause the 88 surely had a hitachi. I think the carter / weber only came on *some* 83's and 84's. Some 84's came with factory CC, and I've seen one 83 with what looked like a dealership install. I'm guessing that this kit has a on/off switch that lights up - and goes under the dash - like the third eye switches. That's the one I saw that looked like a dealer install. The factory one has a different housing around the column, with on and off switches you access thought the steering wheel. GD

Yes - that's also why they were only on the sidwalk side. They are for getting in and out of the jump seats. GD

Looks like it's worth what he's asking. They are getting rare. Jerry got the insurance company to fork over $5,000 for his totaled Brat: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=598&highlight=brat+insurance And stuart c got like $3,500 for his on the east coast. I think $2,500 is fair and reasonable for the condition of that Brat. The topper alone is worth $300 to $500 probably, and that brush gaurd is worth another $100 easy. Extra tranny and engine add another $300 to $500 depending on condition. If I had the money, i would probably fork it over right now. I've been wanting a Gen 1 for a project. Ah well - maybe someday. BTW - should be a 1600 engine - EA71 - 1.6L GD

Where did you get your tranny and engine mounts Tom? And how much were they? Places I've seen want a damn fortune for them. GD

It is generally located in the intake manifold water jacket. GD

Megasquirt is certainly possible, but the original SPFI would probably not be a good choice. The carbed engines are different - the intake manifold is different, as is the compression ratio, and cam profiles. While it may work, it wouldn't be quite right is my guess, and you wouldn't get as much power. The SPFI engines have a higher compression ratio. You would also need the complete wiring harness, and the ECU - also the SPFI distributor is different - it incorparates a crank angle sensor. This can and has been done to EA81's (I realize yours is an EA82), so it would work, but it's probably more work than you think. I've been contemplating doing this to my Brat, so if you do it, tell us how it goes. Take lots of pictures, and make nice wiring diagrams too. We will all learn from your experience. GD

You can wire the secondary to open mechanically with the primary. And I think they are somewhat jettable - if you can find jets that will work with them. Could be done, but the weber is better since they aren't quite so quirky, and there's a huge aftermarket following of them. If you start modifying the hitachi, your on your own, and you'll never get the performance of a weber anyway - the hitachi is just too small. GD

Are we STILL talking about trucks? The Brat is NOT a truck. (Well - at least mine [85] isn't). 86 and 87 will have to refer to their title. I don't see how this law can possibly apply to a passenger car? Anyway - thanks for noting that they are grandfathered - and no law (no matter how obnoxious) will stop you from using them. The only way to stop us, would be to have the federal government declare a recal on all Brat's sold with rear seats, and make Subaru remove them. I think that the likelyhood of this happening at this late of a date is rather slim. GD

Yeah - I think it's legal in Oregon - even in a truck. As long as they are secured. GD

Simply drill out some chevy 6 lugs - two of the lugs line up perfectly, and all you have to do is get a big hand drill, and punch out holes for the other two lugs. Takes about an hour. Chevy 6 lug rims can be had in white that look very similar to the original subaru white wagon wheels. They have a more "aggressive" offset, that makes em stick out a couple inches, and they look REALLY nice. They cost about $25 each from tire shops. GD

The seats ARE unsafe, and court rulings have upheld this: http://www.seriousinjuryexperts.com/defective_vehicle_design.html In that case, the victim was awarded 2.8 million dollars! This was the reason Subaru removed the seats after 85, and simply paid the tax (price went up a lot). And this is also the reason the Baja does not have anything like this. Subaru's legal team would have strangled some poor engineer if they had so much as mentioned "Jump Seats". BUT THEY ARE STILL LEGAL. Period. The Brat is not a truck (except 86 and 87 models apparently), and ANY discussion about the laws governing "trucks" DOES NOT APPLY. GD