mcbrat

Nope, I tried to but the clutch guy thought the 82 TOB was too small for the 83+ PP. But I believe others have done it.... but that doesn't account for your not moving when in gear. did you have the flywheel turned down? if so, did they do the outer piece as well to keep the depth the the correct specs?

82 Brat. Dual Batteries with solenoid between them. Xt6 Alternator. when I first start it up, it will not charge. as soon as I take it over 3500 RPM's then it will charge,even when RPM's go lower... bad diodes, or need a new wire from alt to battery?

Kurt, it was at least 3 years ago when he sent me those pics. He was looking for another because the rust was getting too bad....

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/mechanical/gear-ratios.xls this may have been the one posted a while back... can't guarantee acuracy though.....

awesome find.....

actually, I meant the "stock" decals, but I can use those too! and I fixed the email problem.... thanks, Mick

nice

I'll venture forth my opinion.... as I had a similar experience. turned out to be my front wheel bearings going out. it allowed enough movement that the rotor was hitting the brake pad (in a non-normal braking fashion of course) watch your tires for cupping/eneven wear....

I will be revamping the decals page. will be offereing more selections, including a hatchback stripe decal... please send any photos you have or can take, and let me know dimensions... I also have the euro style 4WD decal (as seen on Zap's blue hatch he just sold....) the current USMB decal will be discontinued as well, will be doing a different design for 2005

get me the exact dimensions of the lettering. even a pic of the faded area would be cool.... here are the RX ones I have currently. I can use any piece of them, and size them to your needs.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/decals/rx-turbo-4wd.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/decals/rx-fulltime-4wd.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/decals/ea81rx-4wd.jpg

I have the filters on now, but before I did that I just used a clean shop rag...

nah. got something lined up already but on a good note, I was able to drive it long enough to burn out all the coolant that got into the exhaust when the previous ea82 blew the HG.... bet that was a site as this soobie was followed by a humongous white cloud.. at about 1 AM too and I had forgotten how good the side bolstered RX type seats felt

cylinder #3 bad. either the piston or connecting rod bolts. will be swapping heads to a different shortblock.... sometime in January.... fun fun fun....

it's a pain in the ea82, but not too bad. I just replaced an old core with one from a board member. I had it tested first,and all was fine. you have to basically remove the dash. I found some info on removing itin a haynes manual, but for the most part, I used a "pull and see what's still attached..." method Napa quoted me $120 for a new one, but they'd have to contact the manufacturer....

it's dead (well, actually dying...) majorly bummed. anybody close to IA have a spare ea81?

here's the link to Dave's 78.... http://usmb.net/gallery/readersrides/daveAps_78_1 the original jackmans that you could get were 13's yes, but there were special lift kits made for the Gen1's and it came with the 14" jackman wheels. the Jackman wheels have flat spokes, and a Jackman 'J' logo stamped in the front of one of the wheel spokes.....

maybe there's too many drafts from the missing metal

cleaned out the cargo area last night and put in my MTX RT boxes.... there's more room between the rear wheel well in an ea81 wagon !!!! I couldn't put the boxes side by side there like I did in my 82... ended up putting them along the sides at the far back of the cargo area. a little Febreeze on the seats/cargo carpet too. took of the small bra on the front of the hood. and added PS fluid. got my 14" alloys on. new tires will get put on next week hopefully. 225/70R14 http://www.lemanstire.com/tires/catalog/lemans-at.jsp replaced broken right rear tail light. have brushguard temporarily mounted with big screws into the rubber bumper but figured out how I can do a proper mount though... looks funny though with the "shelf" bumper but it's a nice place to put tools while your working on it I should be able to get some pics of it this weekend....

that's what my dad's did when the t-stat stuck open. I had put in one of the safe-t-stats. his thermoswitch failed, and got hot, and it forced the t-stat to stick open. my mom kept complaining about being cold it would get nice and toasty sitting there warming up, but then drop down to the bottom of the guage when on the highway. the only reason you're able to maintain 1/4 is because of the cardboard you put in.....

I had 27* air coming out after a R134A AC conversion in Mountain Grizzly and it was in August I still think your t-stat is stuck open......

the auctions state it's for the coupe (3 door) only.... seems I have seen some like it, but can't remember for sure.....

http://www.ozified.com

because the struts angle away from the tower mount points, the holes in the lift block where the strut will mount, need to be pushed in towards the engine 22 deg, relative to the bolts at the top of the lift block that now bolt into the stock location.... this will keep the strut at the correct angle so your camber doesn't get messed up.... an adjustable strut block would be the best so you can adjust the camber if needed....

185/70R13

fix the bigger hole first....