nipper

I did several three speed auto's and one GM with lockup. After that i will gladly put in a used one before getting into a rebuilt. rebuilts are cranked out by a factory, I do not of a shop that rebuilds them by hand anymore (I am sure there are a few out there some place) The only exception may be the Justy, which surprsingly still come from subaru.

ticktocktictok its only a matter of time well someone had to say it

Sometimes cold is cold and cars will squeek. I lubed mine with white lithim grease (the universal joint). Now if the car is old enough, chek the rack, the inner and outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. The sound may be traveleing and be someplace else in origin.

Subaru 4eat Transmission Kits http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/transmissions_automatics/subaru_overhaul_kit.html

280,000 miles and my rack is dying. there is also this strange clunk when bitter cold which I think is the inner driverside tie-rod or worse. The noise is when I turn the wheel (not always) but is there when parked.

Don't by the cheapest one you see. try and find who supplies OE (brand name) and that should be your best bet. I am seeing 121.00 aftermarket with a very quick check. SOme more http://cobratransmission.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_1210_1212_1223_1232

i love learning new things

Thats just an educated guess. They may be using aftermarket tachs. Have you tried picking the pulse up at the ignitor?

Subarus really do not like lightened flywheels for road use. Use the stock.

Switch is dirty, relay, Murphies law

The 86 tach is not compatable with the newer ECU driven tach. The newer output is just a signal pulse, where the older one is a true voltage pulse

There is always one who is an overacheiver

Step 1, what is the mileage on the car. Step 2. do the simple thing first, replace the cap and see what happens.

Allow me to be uninformed, but i am assuming this uses the usual waste spark system. if so I would think that there is an RPM outpup from the ECU. the waste spark fires 2 plugs at one time. I would think the source either comes off the ignitor, but more likely the ECU reading the crank position sensor since that is used for timing spark. Just a guess as I am not familiar with the engine. What is this transplanted into?

Yes sadly it is porked.

150K if the head gaskets go, they go. For the 1000th time at that age ANY car can (and has) blown headgaskets. Now look out for torquebind. All tires must match and be equally worn. Take the car out for a test drive and make a tight u-turn. The car should be able to idle through the turn (or a wee bit of throttle) without jerking or the steering wheel fighting you. There may be an initial bump or jerk, but that is the computer figuring out what is going on. Watch for the ATF light flashing on start-up. This indicates an electrical fault. Shut the car off and restart it as the light indicates a failure on the last operation of the car. CEL should light shut off after startup. At that mileage it may need struts.

Since the brushes are cheap, I woudl replace them as long as I am there.

Ebay and Crutchfield.

It may be coming on even when the air is dry and very very very cold to lubricate itself, this is common to a lot of AC systems. Otherwise it does come on with the defrost.

Double tripple quadrupple check. Many people swear oin a stack of bibles that they got the timing right, just to be off a tooth. If the car ran fine before you touched it, and doesnt after you did touch it, the problem is what you touched.

Bubbles are because it is overfilled, change the fluid and fill it to the proper level. Foresters do have weak rear wheel bearings.

The pan is just a resivoir, not under pressure. They only way ic can spit up fluid is if it is overfilled. Does the fluid foam or is bubbly when it pushes out? If it does it is overfilled. Check which fill you are using like stated above.

The switch that turns the fan on

The second is a siphon. It does nothing mechanically. Two things. Shift the car manually and see if that helps. Clamp the return line on the pressure regulator and see if that helps. Knock sensor is easy, no need to take anything apart you can get to it.