nipper

Then someplace we have failed you. We simply cant have things making sense in the last minutes of the unofficial i hate window thread time frame. It may be autocycling just to keep itself from freezing over winter. Also some cars do have the compressor come on at startup just to get the lubricant in the coolant to circulate.

Actually I havent see one specd out since the begnining of the OBDII cars. They usually are pricey to make as compared to a cheap liutlle plastic flapper door. Just iout of curiosity I would like to see a few. I also wonder if he may be having a sticking thermostat.

I should have said american (so I will clarify and not change), my mistake. As when i mean older carb'd in the US foregn cars were few and far between. Small engines (anything below a 8) didnt have any real competition till then. Also deisels (up untill the last 2 years) did not have cats, nor carbs, so they do not count either. Everyone knows of someone who has a car/widget/squeeqky that lasts way beyond what the planned life for the car/widget/squeeqky was planned, but for the moist part they were lucky if they got that far. Technically that is not a valid point either, otherwise i would be standing from the tallest rustpile exclaiming how the 1969 Rambler American was the best car ever built! HEY STOP LAUGHING AT ME! *giggle*

i have absolutly no idea what you are talking about, but that has never stopped me before. Cars stopped using "heater valves" ages ago. They now use mixing or blend doors in the HVAC system to control temp and air flow. There is coolant constantly flowing through the heater core. Maybe you can gear your question towards that. By fan I am going to assume you mean your main radiator fan? In winter you may have things run that do not normally run in hot weather unless needed. This is done to keep them from seizing over winter. Ac compressors used to do this on some cars, along with fans etc affected by cold weather.

It wasnt too much of an issue in pre-cat cars, as pre-cat cars were not expected to have engines that lasted too long anyway (60,000 miles was a milestone). Carbs and cats and winter startups with prolonged idle made for a nice warm car.... from the fire of the melting cat.

Turn key and drive is generally a bad idea at 30, very bad at 20, very very bad at 10, and dont complain to us your car has rod knock at zero.

But then it is not the magical Christmas Coal

Im just pluggingin in here to watch. I hhave a justy with a ccvt. I have read the other boards, and this one seems to be whine free.

so THATS why you walk around around your car three times in a counterclockwise direction under a full moon when it is below 30 degrees outsdie? And where is my lump of coal

Like GD said. In the field we call that increase oil consumption "Impending Doom".

Headgasket issue is not caused by outside temps, but that is another thread. Modern cars if you get in, start the car, put on your seatbelt, throw all the leftover McD's bags in the back seat you are good to go. If it is brutally cold you may want to give the car a minute before going. Drive nicely for the first 15 minutes to allow suspension parts and the transmission to warm up. The engine itself warms up fairly quickly.

I did several three speed auto's and one GM with lockup. After that i will gladly put in a used one before getting into a rebuilt. rebuilts are cranked out by a factory, I do not of a shop that rebuilds them by hand anymore (I am sure there are a few out there some place) The only exception may be the Justy, which surprsingly still come from subaru.

ticktocktictok its only a matter of time well someone had to say it

Sometimes cold is cold and cars will squeek. I lubed mine with white lithim grease (the universal joint). Now if the car is old enough, chek the rack, the inner and outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. The sound may be traveleing and be someplace else in origin.

Subaru 4eat Transmission Kits http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/transmissions_automatics/subaru_overhaul_kit.html

280,000 miles and my rack is dying. there is also this strange clunk when bitter cold which I think is the inner driverside tie-rod or worse. The noise is when I turn the wheel (not always) but is there when parked.

Don't by the cheapest one you see. try and find who supplies OE (brand name) and that should be your best bet. I am seeing 121.00 aftermarket with a very quick check. SOme more http://cobratransmission.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_1210_1212_1223_1232

i love learning new things

Thats just an educated guess. They may be using aftermarket tachs. Have you tried picking the pulse up at the ignitor?

Subarus really do not like lightened flywheels for road use. Use the stock.

Switch is dirty, relay, Murphies law

The 86 tach is not compatable with the newer ECU driven tach. The newer output is just a signal pulse, where the older one is a true voltage pulse

There is always one who is an overacheiver

Step 1, what is the mileage on the car. Step 2. do the simple thing first, replace the cap and see what happens.