nipper

The parts are incredibly expensive, it makes a rebuilt from Subaru lok like a steal. I wouldnt worry about noises when the car is cold (and the air temp is cold) as long as they go away once the car warms up. Now if it was doing it at 40 degrees or more then I would wonder about it. How many miles and what year is the car (that should always be given)

Replace the PCV valve, don't clean it as that is not much of a test anymore. Check the PCV hoses. Do a full tuneup, as the loss of power at speed can be bad wires (use OE wires). The wires can fail with heat. Also this is a classic coil failure (weak spark when hot) but lets do a tuneup first.

And dont forget the ever popular seperation plate.

I stongly disagree on all levels. A car with a rusted out subframe is dangerous, as well as bad front end parts and bad brakes. Most drivers do not notice these issues and drive the cars till things brake. Having been hit by someone who lost thier brakes in a non inspection state, I can personally attest that they are needed. And look at his crack, it is huge and dangerous. Yes it IS a double laminate, but that crack compromises the strength of the glass. It is really dnagerous to say a year of saftey is not worth the 40 bucks. The excuse of that they catch it when the car is in the shop for maintanence doesnt work either as many people use an oil change place that does not inspect the front end or brakes. Also quite a few people who do thier own oil changes never bother to inspect those parts. Now with cars that can go a year without an oil change, it is much more important to have inspections.

That crack is HUGE. I am sorry but that is a hard failure and anyone who thinks that is NOT within the drivers line of site is blind. Any crack that big anywhere in the windshield is a failure and unsafe. The windshield works with the airbags to hepl protect passengers in a crash. A HUGE crack like that compromise the strength of the windshield. In some cars the windshield is a structural part of the car too. That is not a small crack or an unreasonable failure in any stretch of the imagination. That is also a violation where you could get a ticket for failed equipment. In ten days your temp inspection sticker expires and it would be the same as driving around with an uninspected car. nipper

Clean your pullies.

No matter what pulling an engine can be messey, and this is a worse case scenario. Is the engine totally frozen or does it turn then a thunk (hollow feeling)? Is it a hard thunk or a soft thunk.

It can't hurt, but do it the easy way. With a turkey baster empty the pump. refill with fresh fluid. and your done. If you really want to be complete, do this like a tranny flush. Drain-fill-start then turn lock to lock then repeat four times (I think, usually the same amount as the capacity as it does not have to be 100%). PS fluid has a very easy life so no need to get 100%

Hrmmmm Check the condition of the oil. Is there a "thunk" when you try to move the engine by hand, or can you feela thunk? It is odd to have no warning signs, but I have seen quite a few mechanical misdeads due to inattention or the ol "Oh its been making that noise for months, since it did not get worse I did not think it was important" Or that hollow knock in the engine that seems to come and go (I myself got bit in the arse by that one). Look up Torque Converter here you may find out how to do it. Someone will chime in. The TQ is bolted to the flex plate, but basically just sits on the nose/input shaft of the transmission. You see lots of engines with the TC still connetced to them in junkyards. I just don't know off hand if this would be better done on the car or on the floor. I would think on the car as more leverage.

Replace the belt as it may be glazed. Also you need to check the belt with the engine stone cold as they belt expands as it gets warmer.

http://www.aircarecolorado.com/im240tst.htm The car must be tested on an adjustable AWD dyno OR put in FWD. All-Wheel Drive/Traction Control Vehicles Vehicles that are full-time four wheel drive, all-wheel drive or traction control are tested using specially-designed dynamometers -- one set for the front wheels and an adjustable set (adjusted based on length of wheel base) under the rear wheels. The far All-Wheel Drive/Traction Control Vehicles Vehicles that are full-time four wheel drive, all-wheel drive or traction control are tested using specially-designed dynamometers -- one set for the front wheels and an adjustable set (adjusted based on length of wheel base) under the rear wheels. The far right lane of every test station contains two sets of dynamometers and four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in this lane. Vehicles that can be shifted from four-wheel drive to two-wheel drive must be tested in two-wheel drive rather than using the four-wheel dynamometers. All-Wheel Drive/Traction Control Vehicles Vehicles that are full-time four wheel drive, all-wheel drive or traction control are tested using specially-designed dynamometers -- one set for the front wheels and an adjustable set (adjusted based on length of wheel base) under the rear wheels. The far right lane of every test station contains two sets of dynamometers and four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in this lane. Vehicles that can be shifted from four-wheel drive to two-wheel drive must be tested in two-wheel drive rather than using the four-wheel dynamometers. right lane of every test station contains two sets of dynamometers and four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in this lane. Vehicles that can be shifted from four-wheel drive to two-wheel drive must be tested in two-wheel drive rather than using the four-wheel dynamometers. Tirerack lists the tire size as either a 14 or 15 inch tire. Anything below 17 is NOT supposed to be on the dyno. Tires that are smaller than 17 inches or larger than 34 inches cannot be safely tested on the dynamometer. Only vehicles with manufacturer-equipped undersized or oversized tires that do not fit safely on the dynamometer will be authorized by the state to undergo an idle test instead of a dynamometer test. Vehicles with tires larger or smaller than original equipment that do not fit safely on the dynamometer must be returned to stock condition for testing. Vehicles with non-original undersized or oversized tires will not receive authorization from the state for an idle test. If this applies to you it should not have been on the Dyno. The light should reset after the next drive if the issue went away. The TCU will stop the AWD at about 50 mph if it senses a problem, What they did was DANGEROUS and should be reported to whatever agency controls the inspection station. Write doiwn what they did, print out a copy of the link, and hold onto it if the problem does not clear up. Without seeing the car I think they damaged it. PS, in New york any AWD vehical are exempt from the dyno tests.

There is the ol rubber hose method. use a hose as a stethascope and listen to all four injectors. if they all sound the same we need to chase this down some more. Check the grounds, clean them, maybe run a new one from the block to the body. Check the MAF sensor as may also cause a miss. Are you using the same coil pack?

Engine Temp Sensor. It can not tell how cold the engine is so it is flooding the engine. This will not throw a code.

Slight correction. This is telling you there was an electrical fault in the transmission in the last operation of the car. 98% of the time it is the Duty C solenoid. Alos look up Torque bind and enjoy lots of reading

Did you ever replace the O2 sensor or check for a clogged cat converter? What parts did you swap over from the other engine. The miss is always on #3? Did you use new OE wires? Are you sure this is an ignition miss and not a fuel injector miss?

yes it sounds like a mismatched diff. It is easy to tell on a lift. Start the on the lift raised only high enough to get the tires off the ground. Mark the other 2 wheels with chaulk in matching spots. Since these are open diffs have 2 people san use 2x4's to stop the ine side from spinning. On the side with the marks the tires should stay in synch. Since Autos transfer a minimum of 10% of power to the rear, they will spin.

Swap washers see if it pumps. Just because the motor spins it may have enough omph to do anything.

The rear has its own pump in front tank. the pump died. you can use a universal pump kit. You may think about replacing the front pump too, as I had them quit 1 month apart.

OK im perplexed.

A cracked knock sensor may not throw a code. Physically inspect it. I would prefer to use the thing sticking out of the flor to do the same thing I do that lots as it is, and will drive the car manually on occasion.

Thats typical Japanese 4 cyl cruise conrol calibration. If you are in a loit of rolling hills use Drive 3, it will really make the car much happier.You just shut it off and drive uphill, it is not a bug as much as a silly design feature. Do the vac gauge like I suggested and post the results here. There is no such thing as too much data for those of us who do not have the car infront of us. If your code reader wil do it can you give us the % of load at idle, 30mph and 60 mph on level ground (or the avg load). Hrmm the decelration only happening above 40, i think we may have a clue. It should happen all the way down to where the car will max out if allowed to creep at idle. Some cars will get up to 15mph due to tranny calibration. How is your wheel alignment? Have you tried better fuel? Forgive me if I am repeating myself as this thread has gotten long, but was the knock sensor replaced. Is the egr functioning. Do you have a scangauge so that you can read these things on the go and get a real MPG reading? Is your cat clogged? I sort of wish we had data and not information on what you checked as that would give us more information.

It's back with the CVT and stick.

I could have gotten you a source for one almost 1/2 that price. http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/?gclid=CJWX9bujtqECFcRM5QodjSGF_g

www.cars101.com The hill holdr on your car is that stick between the seats below the shifter