nipper

So you never had a stripped bolt that you had to use a drift or a chisle to remove it? You just hit it like an impact gun. hitting it to it turns in the direction you wish for it to loosen. nipper

Dang i just wanted the cross bar screws. FSM says to use a drift and a hammer "hit the torn bolt head to loosen and remove the ignition switch" Ah we love brute force. nipper

Are you using an OE thermostat? Have you replaced the cap (at this age you should). Did you fill the cooling system SLOWLY with the car running? nipper

They are supposed to last the life of the car. With the ultra clean fuel we have now I would tend to believe them, but maybe replace it every 100K. Its realtivly easy to get to for being in the tank and the part doesnt cost alot. nipper

The ignition lock or the switch assembly? The assembly is held in by bolts that have break away heads. You just drill out what is lift of those bolts (guess the size of the bolt shaft, dont go by the "head size" and then it will copme right out. Say is this car being scraped? Does it have the cross bars on the luggage rack/ Just askin

Go over this car with a fine tooth comb. Removing the rear diff for torque bind id like cutting off a leg to cure a hangnail. The FWD fuse has no effect on the way the car operates when the RWD is removed. Only God knows what else is wrong with this car. nipper

What I do (if this is a wagon) is use the rear washer. It really helps. nipper

The problem with usuing junkyard parts. Ask yourslef why the car was there to begin with. Like lets say, they couldnt get the car started and it was to old to bother repairing... IE no spark. Check the power going to the coil as the engine cranks with an ANALOG meter. Also replace the condenser if it has one. nipper

I liked the vision of 300 acres of plastic forks. nipper

A CB helps but isnt needed nipper

Say, has anyone plugged in the green diagnostic connectors to each other under the dash? That can make the fans run on.

Happens all the time. You apply the brakes, the power backfeeds through the parking light filament and makes the dash lights glow. nipper

Start with square one. How is the alt output? nipper

These are not scary issues, and in fact may all be independt of each other. The light issue, check your tail light bulbs and brake bulbs. This is a common problem when the brake filamint in the bulb shorts out against the parking light filament. Replace the bulb that is bad. CEL- Get the codes read. ABS light - Get the codes read (this is NOT done with an OBD reader, there are procedures somewhere on the site on how to do it). Typically it is a broken tone ring or a dying wheel speed sensor. Cruise not working - Code 703 Bad Brake light switch (replace it). Has this car ever been in a flood? Also check your alt output at 1800RPM with everything on. nipper

There is a locking pin in the lock mechanisim that locks the steering wheel. This pin is gauling, and will only get worse with time. Have it fixed since as the weather gets colder, it will just get worse. This is a mechanical issue with the lock cylinder, and the dealer was just being honest with you. You got two prices because it could also possibly have to do with the circuit that connects the shifter interlocks with the ignition switch. This also may not be a straight "just replace the cylinder" thing as they may have to replace the fitting that the pin goes into too. nipper

+1 And as i said before, ignitors/ignition amplifiers/mystery box will drive you nuts on these cars trying to diagnose it. Thats why you rule everything else out first, OR just toss in a complete working one from another car. nipper

CanBus. It means that is it multiplexed. It will read new cars and old cars with OBDII. Can is the new OBD communication system. Any reader you get should be CAN-OBDII ready. nipper

Did i just hear a gauntlet being thrown?

If the sliders were not dissassembled and lubricated when the brakes were last done i can see them wiping out. Next time ask for the old parts back. nipper

PS the V belt (yes they call it that as I just ordered some for Blu) is high. I would question them on that one, or they shifted some of the labor charges around, which is not uncommon. nipper

Front Rotors are MSRP 94.95 1st subaru price 68.36 Rear Rotors are 94.95 68.86 Front pads are 94,95 63.36 Rear Pads are 94.95 63.86 So thats 70X4=280.00 Rotors 64x2= 128.00 Pads Normal labor is 1 hour per axle i think, maybe 1.5 hours. Any time a car goes on a lift usually it is a 1 hr charge. minimum Expensive brake work is avoidable if you dont let the pads get that low as to grind. The car did not have to go to the dealer for this service, so maybe you could have saved 100 bucks. nipper

Welcome

Because it was a luxury grand touring car, and in the early 90's those kind of cars did not come with a manual shift. Windshields cost an arm and a leg and something else you are fond of. Be leery of any SVX with its original transmission. Any odd shifting it will need a tranny (best fix is swapping in a legacy tranny and rear diff). Expensive fix is having the original tranny rebuilt to correct the issue at a proper rebuilder. Rear wheel bearings nipper

That is not a bad price at all. I have seen shops quote alot more then that, a hell of a lot more for heat shields. Considering most dealerships get over 100.00 an hour for labor she got a really good price. nipper

I know these tracks are commercially available. I will not buy them i will not buy them i will lust after them