nipper

Is is tough to make them pass emissions but that isnt the issue. As much as people yell and scream whenever the "A" word is mentioned, most people in the USA want automatics, and diesels dont have one yet (in subaru). Also not sure what the cost premium is for diesel in these tough times. Also MB has deeper pockets then subaru does for emission testing. Yes i am pro diesel but also a realist. Subaru already has one clunker on thier hands, lets not give them two, nipper

Dear Santa, i mean Subaru http://www.autoblog.com/2009/10/08/2010-subaru-legacy-wagon-debuts-in-britain-no-yankee-not-for/

http://www.drive.subaru.com/Win05_WhatsInside.htm nipper

The wierd idle speed does fit in with a bad NSS (inhibitor switch in subaru speak). Replace it and everything may just go away. It's not an unusual cause and effect thing. nipper

1- you can fit Hella's to that space where the fog lights are, do a search here as i think there are other posts on it. 2-Powerlocks usually just work. The first suspect to check is the switch itself. They are easy to rebuild and clean. next suspect would be where the wires pass through the door. 3-can be as simple as a corroded terminal in the fuse block 3a- one fan is the primary and one is on with the AC.

You tell us I would imagine you will see an rpm increase into the powerband and the transmission lower the effective ratios. Also you can always manually downshift it to one of the fixed ratios. nipper

Thats actually alot of useful information. Check the main fuse block. Physically remove it and inspect for corrosion or a tired fuseable link. There are not many places on the car where you can loose the primary power feed and have a backfeed to the entire car. nipper PS check the main relay harness too.

Year and mileage please, we ALWAYS need this information. Test the altenator on the car only. Testing it off the car is useless. Only test it with an analog tester. The digital ones give TMI, and no one really knows how to read them properly. nipper

Codes are a TOOL, not a diagnoses. Lets go back to car repair 101. The first step for weird starter motor issues is to rig a light from the starter solenoid (switch lead) and put that bulb where you can see it. Then you have to wait for it to fai to start. If the ligt comes on when you turn the key to start and there is no crank, the ignition switch is fine. Get yourself a haynes manual. Look up how to test the crank position sensor. There is zero reasons to replace the starter in a subaru, as a- you can inherit someone elses starter contatc issues (if it is used), b- subarus starters are rarely the problem. Have you checked the Neutral saftey switch (inhibitor) and the clutch pedal saftey switch?

Get a set of snow tires. Even here on Long Island i see these things get stuck all the time because they have all season speed rated tires on them (that all season must be in San Diego). nipper

I've driven one (while Blu was getting inspected). I never espect great performance off the line with a sooby, but once it got going it was fine. It is sneaky. Since you have no gears to mentally count off, your speed can get away from you. Otherwise i liked it.

http://www.walkerexhaust.com/products/pipes_accessories.asp thats who i suggest. FInd a local dealer. nipper

Ok then i am bowing out of this thread. Good luck. nipper

Yes we really cant tell you anything without that information, unless you just want to throw money at the car. nipper

That would be the last thing I would replace, but hey its your car. I am going to bow out out of this thread, good luck. nipper

I was wondering if the battery operated electric impacts are any good. nipper

About your friend, well, i'll be nice. All autopmatic transmissions when you drop the pan will have some metal shavings in them, so calm down and stop and think. The metal shavings are most likely from the clutch drum in the AWD unit, a common thing when the clutch pack fails. It gets replaced as part of the repair. Take the car to a dealership, as it costs about 900.00 to fix the AWD unit in one of these transmissions, which is about what it will cost you to replace the transmission with labor. Also the 2000's have an issue with an inner seal, causing a long delay in engagment from a stop, and from rev to drive. If yours does not have these problems, KEEP IT! Odds are the replacement will have this issue (could be the reason it ended up in scrap yard to begin with). Take it to subaru, get it fixed, get a warrenty, and save yourself money in the long run. nipper

The tank vent solenoid to the charcaol canister is dead or stuck. Do you have any CEL? nipper

20 mpg per gallon is a little low, but not tragic. Its sounds like you are only 2-3 mpg too low in local driving. Always do MPG mathmatically, not by the fuel gauge. 2.2 is due for a timing belt every 60,000 miles. When in doubt replace it. Yes it can cause a misfire code on all four cylinders. The carnk position sensor is used to determine spark timing, the cam is used to determine fule injection timing. If the engine thinks that these two sensors are out of synch it will throw multiple misfire codes, as well as cause you to have poor gas mileage. Replace your fuel filter. Replace your PCV valve. What brand wires, o2 Senosr and plugs did you use? nipper.

Your right, your car is junk and you should give it to me Ok lets forget all the other posts, and dont go into this with any preconcieved notions. Give us the work history of this car starting with right before the HG was replaced. nipper

Not really, as there are seven solenoids in the transmission and acter the Duty C (most popular) is the Pressure solenoid and the TC solenoid that are the others to throw codes that one may not notice. I have seen a bad tranny temp sensor once in a while too. But as is asked here, we need the parking lot test. nipper

When was the last time this car had a good old fashioned tune up? When was the last time the timing belt was changed?

Walk away from the 05. Lets work on the 1997 like the other poster said. Give us a history on the car, when what was done etc. nipper

Its not a cross flow radiator? It doesnt matter when your removing your external cooler, but it does when you add it. You want to cool the fluid before it goes in the radiator, as it also helps to heat up the tranny fluid. Putting it in after the radiator can cause the tranny to take longer to warm up. nipper

yes its time for a full tuneup first. The flashing tranny light may or may not be related. Does the cra stall when it comes to a stop, or when you take your foot off the gas? The light is telling you on the previous car operation, there was an electrical fault in the transmission (a OBDII reader will not read this code). How does the car behave when you make a tight U-turn? nipper