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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. Compression should be 180-185 PSI. I would have a proper dry/wet compression test done first to see what the numbers are. If you want a vacume gauge can tell us the condition of the engine too. The aftermarket Cat, if it was an Eastern Cat, I would fault the cat and not the engine. A Cat can tolerate a fairly large amount of oil burning, as cars consume oil in thier normal operation. First thing first, get a proper compression test. nipper
  2. It works best with a subaru select scanner. They dont work with the generic code readers. Sir? eek nipper
  3. #1 rule of subarus - NEVER connect the green connectors. They are not for our use, they are for the dealership to use for diagnostics and flashing the ECU. Just leave them be. nipper
  4. And I am an automotive engineer and I can tell you that is an old wives tail from old wives cars. Back before computer controlled transmissions, this was true. Materials and seals were differnt, along with how an automatic transmission operated. Modern transmissions last tthe life of the car now because internal clutch slippage has been greatly reduced (which was the cause for wear and failure in an automatic). Internal materials have changed a great deal since then. The old theory that the gunk that was baked onto the clutch plates no longer applies, since gunk doesnt get baked on the clutch plates anymore. Computers reduce engine torque for a split second at clutch engagement, so no internal slippage, nothing to get baked onto the plates. Now old fluid can gum up the solenoids and pistons. It can loose its ability to transfer heat effeciently. Transmission fluid usually doesnt have an issue with water contamination, but over many many many miles one can never tell. Chaining the fluid on a modern tranmission will not hurt. Yes there is ALWAYS someone who says "I changed mine for the first time at X00,000 miles and it failed". Most likely thier transmission was going to fail anyway. Its the same thought process of chaining from dino to synthetic oil caused oil leaks (as it does not because the engine was going to leak anyway). nipper
  5. Your oil leaks probably mean you are using far less oil then you think you are. Have you had a timing belt done on this car yet? Those compression numbers I dont like, but if subaru says the leakdown is good i wont argue. When was the last time the cooling system was serviced, and what brand oil are you using? What oil change intervals do you use? What kind of driving do you do?
  6. Replace the knock sensor, clear the codes, and let us know if anything else comes up. How many miles on this car? nipper
  7. A Wishlist item had been a undercar wlkthrough, but a more realistic on had been to have one bay have a rear garage door of some kind depedning upon how the structure is laid out on the property. Locally the garage cuts off access to the back yard, so I always thought having a rear garage door would be great. nipper
  8. http://www.scoobymods.com/mod_heated_seat_install-t7348.html?t=7348&highlight=heated+seats That comes close
  9. He needed a sunroof. And besides, that was factually innacurate as VW bigs had plenty of head room, once you got in one. hehehehee
  10. 130,000 miles? I have to ask, the timing belt has been replaces at 105,000 ? Along with the idler and tensioner?
  11. Just because the main switches (which usually are the culprit) pass a MM check doesnt mean they can carry all the current to power the motor. Take the main switch apart, clean and lube the contacts. Check the harness that goes through the drivers door. Test the motor by hot wiring it, but usually the first step fixes it. nipper
  12. Well i dont like elixers as a repair, unless everything else has been ruled out first. i would have told him..... eventually.....
  13. If its the original clutch cable i would replace it even if the clutch is tired. This is much easier to do then the clutch itself, and can give similar symptons right before it snaps. nipper
  14. Ive been looking for one, and pay no attention to GD, hes just jelouse. Go to that site i posted. Justys actually had a fairly high hp/weight ratio for that size car. They arent too bad to own, engines are easy to rebuild. The only part that is getting hard to find are struts. Fuel injected is prefered over carbed. Also the auto CVTs have a an achillies heel, which is not too hard to fix. Its usually the brushes for the electric clutch that doom those things. nipper
  15. Good more for the rest of us nipper
  16. http://subarujusty.proboards20.com nipper
  17. Chainging transmission fluid has zero to do with this. Check your level to make sure its full. Do a FULL fluid changes (three drain and fills). Then lkest see what happens. It is possible that your tranny is tired, but we do have one more trick up our sleeves if the full fluid change doesnt help. nipper
  18. They come up on ebay from time to time, and a universal kit is 80.00. nipper
  19. Ill hunt this week. Impracticel if you pay someone else to do it. You need to really strip the seat apart to get to the element. Worse comes to worse ill do it in the end of the month and tell ya how.
  20. Somwhere out there in the hinderlands we call the internet, I remeber seeing the procedures on how to R and R a heated seat. Winter is coming and my seat is cold. Has anyone seen this? nipper
  21. Inspect the carrier bearing, heat shields, and tranmission mount. nipper
  22. Now Now, my lawyer did very well by me with my own insurance company when the lost income adjuster dragged her feet for 3 months. He said its the first time he ever had to fight a clients insurance company because of a lazy employee, as he is used to fighting the other side. He said the other side was easy. nipper

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