nipper

I would wait it out. A rear diff can make noise for years and never really fail. I have seen diffs fail in less then 100k, you make enough of anything, eventually something will break early. Wait it out till it gets worse, so a better diagnoses can be made. nipper

Check the rear tranny mount. This can be the source of low end rpm shudder. nipper

White lithium grease (in a spray can) is your freind. Once a year you should hit all the hinge points with this, and the latches. nipper

16,000 miles is a bit late to ask for any favors from subaru. Is this a LSD rear diff? Ever have an unmatched tire on that axle? How often did you have the rear diff serviced? When was the last time anyone checked the lube level? Get a used one, its much cheaper. nipper

Give the car a tuneup, it will run better. nipper

I had mine rebuilt by subaru. I paid more, but after watching all this, i feel i did the right thing. nipper

No just a legacy vs an outback. nipper

Its not unusual for the Master and slave cylinder to go when or after the clutch is replaced. They do wear out, and sometimes traveling beyond thier normal stroke can tear the cups internally.

The only time i found a difference between the two is on hill climbing. The 2.5 takes less gas to go up a hill then a 2.2L. Otherwise i really didnt see a difference. MPG should be easier on the 2.2, but where i live with all the stop and go i never saw it. nipper

Ever notice how none of us are morning people? No one ever has an AM.

Any Check Engine lights on? Its a bit early for an O2 sensor to be bad, but not unheard of. How much did they quote you on it. How is your gas mileage? nipper

the 20.00 question. Have you cooked the engine at any time during this discovery? If no you can rebuild the heads. If you have look at another engine. nipper

Did you replace the throw out bearing clips with new ones? Does the car shift? nipper

you dont know if you have an automatic or a stick?

Why did you replace ALL those parts. You only change one thing at a time. If you have the original parts from the car, put them back on. Then change just the sensor and check for vac leaks, and make sure the electircal connector is good. Also computer codes are a tool, not the answer to all problems. you stil have to do diagnositics. nipper

98% of the time it is a bad switch on the brake pedal and/or clutch pedal that needs adjusting. It may or may not be under warrenty, read your paperwork. nipper

Year model transmission and mileage please. A?F sensor = O2 sensor. nipper

Just a general clarification for everyone. 13 flahses of the traany light on startup means that there was an electrical fault the last time the car was operated in the transmission. It does not automtaically mean that the Duty c is bad, but in your case, it is bad. There is a procedure for pulling tranny codes, so if you dont have TB and have the flashing tranny light it may be something else. nipper

Is this a pecv? (pcev?) nipper

Do a search here on Antilock brakes and something should come up on how to read the codes. Why did you replace all those parts? Odds are a wheel sensor is eroded and giving a bad wheel speed reading or a broken tone ring. nipper

Heat would be nice. I had a freind that had a wood burning stove in his garage. nipper

Compression should be 180-185 PSI. I would have a proper dry/wet compression test done first to see what the numbers are. If you want a vacume gauge can tell us the condition of the engine too. The aftermarket Cat, if it was an Eastern Cat, I would fault the cat and not the engine. A Cat can tolerate a fairly large amount of oil burning, as cars consume oil in thier normal operation. First thing first, get a proper compression test. nipper

It works best with a subaru select scanner. They dont work with the generic code readers. Sir? eek nipper

#1 rule of subarus - NEVER connect the green connectors. They are not for our use, they are for the dealership to use for diagnostics and flashing the ECU. Just leave them be. nipper

What he said.