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Everything posted by nipper
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Blu has cancer
nipper replied to nipper's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
The left side stripe kit (J1210AS091) lists for $72.53 and costs $58.02. That is for gray with a gray stripe, The limited with the gold stripe is 102.00/160ish list. We were all suprised how much more the gold stripe was. nipper -
Devils advocate here, but a big pothole can do what they are describing. Dont be so negative towards subaru, as they take each case on its own merits, and its up to the dealer to "sell" the issue to them. However in this case I wouldnt blame subaru for not playing ball. How much are they quoting for repair? I also cant seem to logically see how a bad wheel alighnment can cause this, but i can see how a pothole can damage a tone wheel or a wheel speed sensor. nipper
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The vdc and abs use the same wheel speed sensors. First I would confirm the ALT output is good. After that it is checking all the wheel sensors connections for a bad connector. Seat heaters, usually drivers side fails first, then the passenger side. If they are both out then something else is going on. The old styles used series/parallel for low/high heat. The newer ones i am not sure, but i thik its electronic. First is to check the heaters themselves for continiuty (easy) then check the switches/electronics if they pass that test. nipper
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Blu has cancer
nipper replied to nipper's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
YAY i found the stripes, 102.00 for the entire side, odd how the gold stripe is 50.00 more then the plain stripe. Makes me wonder if it is gold leaf. nipper -
Not true (not picking on ya). As long as the car is running there is fluid going to the clutchpack parts to lubricate it and cool it. With the FWD fuse in you are energizing the duty solenoid continuosly, which it is not designhed for. The solenoid is designed for cycling on and off quickly. The solenoid being held open dumps all the pressure to the clutch pack, but not the fluid that is required to keep things happy. The risk here is overheating the solenoid causing it to fail. When this solenoid fails, it allows full pressure to the clutch pack, which locks it in 50/50 torque split with no slipping. The slipping allows for differential type action.
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Sometimes you have to give into a pro. You cant just suck the old gas out of the car without recapturing it, its illegal and unethical. To properly know what you have or will need you need the AC gauges, and a thermometer. You evacuate the system to remove all the moisture, and it will also help you check for a system leak. Gas is a compressable medium, so you really did not use the cans to push anything out, you may have very easily over filled the system. I dont know how much refrigerant your car takes off hand, but a legacy takes at max 1.5 lbs (20 ounces). nipper
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On crankup you will get error codes, but they wont be valid, or they will be old codes. The car doesnt expect any valid data till it actually starts. Code readers are very handy to have, but sometimes they are overkill. No starts on modern engines usually are easy tofind, as opposed to the ever dreaded intermittent stall. nipper
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Different kind of rust repair.
nipper replied to hardtail_pride's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
A few issues. Body flex will ruin the bond and destroy the foam as the foam has no give.. Faom will keep in humidity and make the rust worse then it is now. Foam will also hide future rust till it is too late. Foam also isnt paintable in this application, and I dont know how it will react with metal in temperiture changes. Spary foam has the same coeffecient of expansion as wood so in that applicatin its not an issue. nipper -
FWD Fuse is really only meant to get you someplace till you fix a flat tire (due to using mismatched tires). Anything longer then that and it can last 1 week or 2 years before you fry the solenoid (seen both). But more importanlty you are driving on bad tires, and need to get that cured asap. You may have bad ball joint(s), tie rod end(s), wheel bearing(s). Any of those that are worn enough to make the car wander is dangerous and need to be looked at sooner then later. nipper
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I have a 2" plus lift on Blu, but run stock tires. Due to the rear suspension geometry, the higher the lift, the closer the rear tire arcs towards the body, so my options are limited. That and I really havent found a need to go to a bigger tire and throw off my spedo for such little gain. nipper