nipper

compressed air? do share, mine has stopped working too. Will caned air work? the rear defroster bulb is an easy fix, its a rice bulb that can be replaced. Look up HVAC lights for details. nipper

Get an entire transmission its easier. When the VC fails, the center diff takes a hell of a beating. Find yourself a low mileage unit from a car that was whacked that has matching tires. Thats a very respectable mileage. nipper

The issue: The Lock up torque converter sheds clutch material. This material clogs up the radiator cooler and lines, and causes the tranny to overheat and fail. Subarus fix was a filter in the transmission line. You still need to frequently change the fluid, and a fluid temp gauge waould be very smart. The svx you are seeing has a failed tranny. Slow shifiting is a bad sign. The most economical fix is the 4eat conversion (and rear diff). SVX had a nicer AWD system, but it is not worth the $$$$$$$ to get one properly rebuilt with all the issues resolved.

only 1% of customers tow, so some one had to loose out. I can't really see why subaru would gear a car to that 1%, who if are towing really should go for the biggest engine they can get anyway. This is about bragging rights, and in this market Subaru needs all the points they can get. As far as calling subaru idiots, i guess no one reads the trades or the automotive gossip. Also do you honestly think VW is going to aid a competitor in how to pass emissions. Every one uses a unique engine and vehical, it is not just "well we will just use Vw system" it does not work that way. Also the issue is NOT emissions, but transmissions that will fit the american driving standards. If you watch a european drive, they try to get up in the highest gear possible as soon as they can for best mileage, where us americans like to wind out gears. We also have a very three dimmensional country with alot of different driving styles. A car can see easily a 7000 foot differnce in altitude daily or weekly and be expected to perform flawlessly at all altitudes. Right now the diesels manuals are geared towards europeans, and even they complain somewhat about first gear. Next the majority of cars sold here are automatics. bringing over a new engine is very expensive, just to have it work with manuals, of which maybe 10 % of your customers want. It is easier to have people settle for an automatic when they want a manual, then the other way around. As much as i love subaru, I am holding out untill the CVT gets some miles on them. I can see how this transmission would have a lighter tow rating. Many cars reduce the towing capability of the base models.

Be thankful. Some high end cars have done away with dipsticks all together. They dont want thier clients getting thier hands dirty. BTW a subaur auto will outlive a subaru clutch by leaps and bounds, and it is a trouble free unit. Many autos out there are way past 250,000 miles an all they want is fresh fluid every 2-3 years. Since you are getting used to subarus, read up on the evils of torque bind and the importance that tires always match (this is for any AWD car). nipper

Lets start with something simple, replace the radiator cap. The t-stat MUST be from subaru. Inspect the outside of the radiator and make sure it is in one peice. 2.2's arent known for blowing HG, but at 160K any engine can blow one. The fact that you had heat is a hopeful sign that the HG is ok. Usually you loose heat with a bown HG on a sooby. nipper

i've done that too nipper

useing too much of a cleaner additive can do mor eharm then good. replace the front O2 sensor first with one from OE. You are at the right mileage to have a bad front O2 sensor. The dealer is just lazy in not properly diagnosing the issue. Its like saying you need tires so replace the car. There is some logic to it, but its just cheaper to replace the tires. nipper

what he said. nipper

You may need to use a better canner on the no code thing. But maybe an o2 sensor? I would get that with Blu when his o2 sensor was failing. nipper

Just be careful, you hit the right spot and the left rear tire may start shaking.

Before you get under the engine, wash the engine. Go to a self serve car wash and clean it good. then give it a few days then look. nipper

i can't promise anything, but can i have directions please?

This is a very typical sooby issue. Best way to cure it is to spend 20-30 dollars and replace the exterior handle. I even replaced the licnse plate lights at the same time and all the screws. Otherwise you will keep lubing it and at some point that wont work anymore. nipper

Short answer is everywhere (what he said). At that mileage those small leaks can turn to huge leaks. When was the last time the timing belt was changed? Usually all the front seals get replaced with the timing belt. Valve cover gaskets are easy, rear seperating plate is tough.

Lets throw a vacume gauge on these puppies to rule out valve timing and a collapsed/clogged exhaust. How many miles are on these cars? Is there an CEL? Are they automatics or manuals? nipper

i've never done a valve adjustment on Blu as he uses shims, and sometimes its just easier to pay someone (and i have a dirt driveway). Valve ping? You may have noisey valves, but ping is something different, as opposed to knock. Some ping you really need to learn to live with, because it's normal. Thats whay the make power amps for car stereos. knock senser is for engine knock, not ping. Knock is an uncontrolled explosion in the cylinder. The knock sensor advnaces the timing to ignite the mixture in a controleed fashion. This starts the flame front at the spark plug, as oppsed to it exploding off the head gasket, or a hot spot in the piston. Knock is very bad for HG's, and can if really bad destroy a piston. Yes you loose power when the knock sensor does this, but its better then destroying the engine. Usually it is only one cylinder or a few rpms till things retunr to normal. This is whay a bad KS can make the car perform poorly. If the senser is cracked or loose it may think that all that rattling is engine knock, as opsed to a failed sensor. Sometimes the sensor can pick up other things as knock, but never noisey valves, adn even that is rare. nipper nipper

Time for some education. The oil pressure light only tells you if there is a failure in oil pressure, not loss of volume. you can have as little as 1 qt of oil in the pan, and the light wont come on, but that is not enough oil to put off an engine failure. Oil needs a specific volume in the pan to halpe shed heat. If the oil cant shed the heat, it will break down and fail. Who determined it is only down 1 qt? How was this conclusion made. Usually when i hear engine knock and it was down 1 qt means it was worse then that. Last time i rebuilt an engine for someone that they said it was just one qt down, it was down to 1 qt of oil. You can try talking to subaru, but you better look like the nicest guy on the face of the earth, making Mr Rodgers look like a mass murderer. Right now the only leg you have to stand on is the low mileage of the engine. If the oil level was full, then you would have a case. Talk to the regional zone rep. You also should have all the oil change reciepts, as that would bolster your case. Also ignoring an oil leak (if they found evidence of one) is another knock against you. Hoesntly what oil change intervals had you been using, what oil, and how often did you check it. Good Luck nipper

Is this an automatic?

Can i be kidnapped? My partner said we will discuss the details of meeting his parents that weekend. eeeeek. nipper

I never liked this check, but feel for cold spots. I personally like taking putting a hose in the top, open the drain, let the water flow, and feel the radiator to make sure it is evenly cold. Im betting its your radiator thats shot. Worn water pump impeller is a possability too. nipper

Its so old it may fall apart on a cleaning. If you really like this car, I would suggest a new one, as a used one may be just as bad. How are the hoses? When was the last time the water pump was replaced? nipper

There are a few thigs left. The radiator cap may be tired. loosen the radiator and inspect it. This car is old enough where the cooling fins may have disintigrated. This would be on the side facing the front of car, behind the condenser for the AC. You may have to remove it to check it. ALso you may have a clogged radiator. Are your cooling fans working? Is there any play in the fan motor shafts? nipper

How did you check to see if it was in spec, and what was the outdoor temp and the dash vent temps? nipper

Ball joint? Tie Rod end? Tie Rod? The mileage is right for any of these to fail. If any of those are so bad they are creaking this needs to be checked ASAP. You dont want total failure of these while the car is moving.