nipper

I should have said coolant temp sensor too. When its something that is dependent on climate, you really can't put pressure on him untill the weather cooperates. He cant find something that requires cool weather to fail when its warm out, as the fault will never show up. He doesnt have a drive in enviormental chamber to test in. In this case work with him, Make sure the complaint is noted someplace in documentation, and just wait till the cooler weather comes for it to act up. nipper

These things can be annoying to diagnose, and in a way the dealer is correct. This has all the symptons of a had sensor or module. Which one, iw ould guess the crank sensor or cam sensor. Do you notice any black smoke when it happens out the tail pipe?

I wonder this too. There are some things that MAY make the waterpump last 200K or more. Since it is a chain, there is less side force on the waterpump shaft then with a timing belt. The shaft end is in a happy place (getting sprayed with oil). Subaru uses a new high mileage coolant made for this pump. The new pump is very hardy in contruction, but only time will tell. It also depends upon what the life of the car is. 200,000 miles is a respectable mileage for ANY car part, period. I think anything past 160,000 is gravy (for non soobys). I did the math and the cost of replacing a sooby timing chain is the same as two timing belts, so thats a wash. The placement of the sooby waterpump is not in a horrible place, but it could have been much better. If you already have the cover off it is right there looking at you. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Tribeca.pdf On page 11 its the little gear next to the crank. What joy three timing chains can be

Replace the cap. What subarus can sometimes do is devlop a hairline crack in one of the tanks. They only leak under heat and pressure (like the car moving at 60mph with the AC on) so you will never really see a leak. What you need to do is clean the car up under the hood and under it, then get a dye test. Then you dirve the car for a while, and they expose the car to balck light to see where the leak is. nipper

There have been two very common reasons for repeat HG failures of subarus. One is use of non-subaru HG's. the other is not refinishing the heads (or milling if you will). I would never do a customers car without sending it to a machine shop for cleaning up the surface at the very least. Thats water under the bridge now, what is done is done. Vacume gauges are really cheap, if you dont have a good compression gauge rent one. As long as it screws into the spark plug hole i'm happy with it. If the numbers are very high the timing is off. Do a dry/wet compression test. Do the vacume test first, as that may just answer our questions. good luck nipper

Open an account at photobucket *free) and post there, as i am having a hard time seeing them too. nipper

Again we are back to needing a vacume gauge. Not lapping the valves is a mistake. Not having the surface finish of the heads refreshed is a mistake. Maybe it is the HG, and not directly the HG fault. http://www.aa1car.com/library/ic697.htm nipper

I'm not convinced you have a HG issue at all, period. If you did you would have over heating at speed, gurgling, loss of coolant the whole schtick. We need more diagnositcs first, and maybe some fresh eyes to look at it. nipper

Not trying to get rid of the codes, trying to restore performance (for now). Clearing out a clogged cat will do that. nipper

Got a vacume gauge handy?

Exhaust hanger? Does it happen at low speeds, higher speeds or all speeds? nipper

Normally I would not agree, but since it is already broken, you cant make it worse (especially since they are getting replaced). nipper

Go out to your car and turn the key normally. Do you hear things click if your not listening for them? It just becomes background noise, so you pay no attention to it. Now go out there and listen for everything that clicks (you may or may not hear them, but there is the main relay, a few others, maybe the fuel pump whiring, maybe not). If the failure is one in 100, or even one in 50, you wont hear the click all the time. I caught it only once out of many anoying failures, and even then it did not register as the starter, it just registered as one of the relays doing their things. nipper

Except it is random when it happens, so it is hard or impossible to do. nipper

No new bolts. Use an online supplier like 1stsubaru.com . Compression test will tell us also if the TB is wrong. nipper

I had one that would click once and never make a sound after that. If you werent listening for the click you didnt notice it. nipper

You are assuming they were ever replaced. Rebuilds are very shoddy sometimes, as the replace only what they find what doesnt work. Sometimes they just clean them up and resell them. nipper

And i now have a new desktop wallpaper. :banana:

I am not going to condem the HG without a compression test of some kind. I like felpro gaskets, I have used them to rebuild engines, but subaru HG should only come from subaru. Aftermarket may not have the lateste version of the HG, or may never even be close. I still say most likely your TB is off.

What he said. Many have been fooled thinking everything is on the mark just to find out its not on the 7th look. nipper

try http://www.lovehorsepower.com/ go to the subaru pages, then the timing belt page

Any vacume line that you can trace back to the intake manifold is good. nipper

Next to the lunar lander base nipper

This is for a 1995 http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/TimingWaterPump.htm but the pics are great. I think the cam timing is page 2 or 3 also www.endwrench.com in the archives under engine. nipper

yes depending upon which way its off a tooth. Modern computer controls can try to correct for many things, and sometimes manages to do it well, like smooth running at highwya speed but poor running at idle. Also just check the obvious, like a disconnected vac line at the air intake box. nipper