nipper

This is actually a common installation, There is the vanagon/subaru list on yahoo where you can gain lots of informtaion. I too am curious as to where you would place the radiator. nipper

There are two ways valves can get bent, one is from hitting each other, the other is to have them hit the piston. Lets try a cheap test. An engine is a big air pump. Air should get sucked in the intake, and blown out the exhaust. Either us a peice of paper or your hand over the intake and feel which way the air is flowing. A compression test will tell us if the valve timing is off on one head, and a dry/wet test will tell us if the valves are not sealing. nipper

If its a bad steering angle sensor they should just fix it. Is your steering wheel off center? And i dont agree with your conclusion about the dealers, but hey, thats me. I have seen subaru come to bat for things that are out of warrenty before, but to me, this is just one of those things that break. Call a subaru area rep and sweet talk them. i dont know what the paramiters are for the fault codes and tolerances are for the steering angle sensor, so I cant say if this will fix it or not. If they are saying the car thinks its always going to the left when the wheel sensors are saying its going straight, i can see how the puter would give up trying to figure it out and throw a code. The real question is, is something bent in the front end? If your wheel is straight, car goes straight, then its just a bad sensor. nipper

Ask NJdrSubaru he lives around there. As far as what to do next? How many miles on the engine. How long has it been over heating. What has been done to diagnose it? What recent service has been done to it? Has the car been driven with the engine temp gauge pegged. nipper

The left side stripe kit (J1210AS091) lists for $72.53 and costs $58.02. That is for gray with a gray stripe, The limited with the gold stripe is 102.00/160ish list. We were all suprised how much more the gold stripe was. nipper

Compression test would tell alot of things right now. nipper

Devils advocate here, but a big pothole can do what they are describing. Dont be so negative towards subaru, as they take each case on its own merits, and its up to the dealer to "sell" the issue to them. However in this case I wouldnt blame subaru for not playing ball. How much are they quoting for repair? I also cant seem to logically see how a bad wheel alighnment can cause this, but i can see how a pothole can damage a tone wheel or a wheel speed sensor. nipper

Yes. I think you may still be off. nipper

You are going to hate me. Check it again. Leave the covers off and everything else off untill you can get the car to start, then reassemble it. nipper

Not to worry you, but that is all auto101. i dont have great faith in the delaership if they couldnt figure that out themselves. nipper

The vdc and abs use the same wheel speed sensors. First I would confirm the ALT output is good. After that it is checking all the wheel sensors connections for a bad connector. Seat heaters, usually drivers side fails first, then the passenger side. If they are both out then something else is going on. The old styles used series/parallel for low/high heat. The newer ones i am not sure, but i thik its electronic. First is to check the heaters themselves for continiuty (easy) then check the switches/electronics if they pass that test. nipper

Slow down bunky ..... Ok we confirmed we have bang, next is boom. Can you hear the ruel injectors clicking, or test them to make sure they have voltage. ECUs dont suddenly go poof because of bad timing. And again, are you totally sure the timing is correct? nipper

Well do you have spark? There isnt a hecl of a lot of things to go wrong to cause a no start condition. Assuming it ran before the surgery. nipper

check your crank and cam position sensors, especially the harnesses. Check to make sure nothing is damaged, also same for the CTS. nipper

Twitch, i think since i took Blu off the network he can't read it anymore. But if he can, hes going to have some cancer surgery really soon. i will be gentle. nipper

Mike, thank you as i got it today.

YAY i found the stripes, 102.00 for the entire side, odd how the gold stripe is 50.00 more then the plain stripe. Makes me wonder if it is gold leaf. nipper

Not true (not picking on ya). As long as the car is running there is fluid going to the clutchpack parts to lubricate it and cool it. With the FWD fuse in you are energizing the duty solenoid continuosly, which it is not designhed for. The solenoid is designed for cycling on and off quickly. The solenoid being held open dumps all the pressure to the clutch pack, but not the fluid that is required to keep things happy. The risk here is overheating the solenoid causing it to fail. When this solenoid fails, it allows full pressure to the clutch pack, which locks it in 50/50 torque split with no slipping. The slipping allows for differential type action.

I always had a freind hold the wrench in place while I cranked the car, but you can do it solo. I've never needed a hardened socket for this. No you didnt fry the ECU.

Sometimes you have to give into a pro. You cant just suck the old gas out of the car without recapturing it, its illegal and unethical. To properly know what you have or will need you need the AC gauges, and a thermometer. You evacuate the system to remove all the moisture, and it will also help you check for a system leak. Gas is a compressable medium, so you really did not use the cans to push anything out, you may have very easily over filled the system. I dont know how much refrigerant your car takes off hand, but a legacy takes at max 1.5 lbs (20 ounces). nipper

On crankup you will get error codes, but they wont be valid, or they will be old codes. The car doesnt expect any valid data till it actually starts. Code readers are very handy to have, but sometimes they are overkill. No starts on modern engines usually are easy tofind, as opposed to the ever dreaded intermittent stall. nipper

Internal Combustion is barbaric. WHat you are doing is using leverage and a motor to save effort, and that is smart, and accepted (and may save your knuckles) nipper

Code reader only works if the car has started. nipper

Timing belt. nipper

A few issues. Body flex will ruin the bond and destroy the foam as the foam has no give.. Faom will keep in humidity and make the rust worse then it is now. Foam will also hide future rust till it is too late. Foam also isnt paintable in this application, and I dont know how it will react with metal in temperiture changes. Spary foam has the same coeffecient of expansion as wood so in that applicatin its not an issue. nipper