nipper

is this a mechanical or electronic relay. Have you tried a differn relay yet?

im going with those two (thats where i was heading)

And how are you judging what "cutting off" is. nipper

There should always be pedal freeplay Now that vibration.... are you sure its not engine related?

You have a few issues here. the clutch pedal vibrating at all timesmeans that there is some force being transmitted thorough the clutch mechanisim to the clutch pedal. The fact that it is a vibration tells me that a- something is not mounted properly in the clutch. Something is pushing up from the pressure plate, up through the fork, through the linkage, to the pedal. b- there is no clutch freeplay

You feel it in the clutch pedal with the clutch engaged? You have no clutch freeplay, check the adjustments at the pedals atc. nipper

Does the noise match engine rpm or vehical speed?

I was just wondering if the axles are the same for the wuto as the manual.

Ah minor details that are left out. What year is this car?

If it wasnt doing it before, and it is doing it after, then you have to dig back into it. There is not a hell of a lot of things to go wrong with a clutch that can be repaired externally. It sounds like it can be too thin a flywheel, a bad pressureplate, a broken spring etc. The only other thing it is worth checking is the clutch fork, make sure it is still mounted and in one piece. But the fact that that the noise is getting worse may not give you any choice but to dig into it. nipper

Ild check the pressures first, you may be borderline low on your pressures. nipper

Your going to have to take it apart again. nipper

"borrow" an altenator?!?!

From that page i can see why they would want people to shy away from it, but its a haynes manual, they go where no man (chilton) has gone before.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_bleeding.htm

Drivers side front or rear or both? Its a diaganol braking system, you may have a bad psitojn in the MC. Its safe to remove it, its just plumbing and a flow through design. But you should look in a manual or find a lumina community (there is one for everything why not this) and check. nipper

Check the inside of the power brake booster vac line. Is it wet? Does it smell like brake fluid? If so the master cylinedr is leaking at the power brake booster. Remove the cylinder (unbolt it) and see if it is wet there. This is actually a common failure mode. nipper

i cheat. I use google with endwrench as part of the search term. nipper

Yes check the U joints and CV joints. SOunds like a siezed U joint. nipper

I would use a three way switch. Middle would be off, one side would be normal backup light circuit, and the other would be manually on. nipper

Welcome to the land of subarus. Its a heat shiled easily fixed with vice-grips or a large hose clamp. nipper

Its in the switch. It involves i think a current sensor, but i can be wrong. Mystery black boxes and magic smoke are not my strong points. nipper

http://www.evdl.org/archive/index.html#nabble-td16961593

I had this, it was my struts being tired. Do a bounce test on your struts, and if the car has alot of miles on it it may be time. nipper

The belts i have now are from advanced. they suck. nipper