nipper

Bad fuel pressure regulator? nipper

Oh man, i would come out there for a personal visit to see that. nipper

Sounds like your rear diff is tired. That raor is an unmistakable noise, esppecially if ti comes and goes with thorttle, or incline of the road. Yes this wont blow up on you any time soon. you will probably replace it out of annoyance more then any other reason. nipper

Big diffeernce. You get what you pay for, and cheap rebuilds are a crap shoot. They usually cause you to get a driveline vibration at idle because they are too tight, they wont allow the engine to freely shake (as the do). Search "Driveshaft vibration" Look at CCR engines website, they have a good axle supplier on thier page. nipper

Take the money and put it in the bank and forget about it. Thats what the extended warrenty people do. If you decide to go for it go over the plans with a fine tooth comb. Look for things that exclude transfer cases, AC compressors and timing belts. Now if this was a 2010 with a CVT I woud have a differnt opinion.

The car needs to start and run to throw a code. Its the weakness of OBD type diagnoses. Crank PS controls spark, Cam PS controls fuel injection. Usually the crank sesnor goes out more often then the cam sensor. I would rule out any fuel issues since the car starts and runs fine otherwise. Don't you just love electonics? nipper

There is ALWAYS someone who has to be difficult. i guess you could do it without popping off the outer tie rod end. nipper

oo i need to get me one of those. nipper

Thanks, its been a few years since i have done this and couldnt remember. nipper

i second that thought. Does it have the original tranny in it? Its really hard to blow a rear diff unless somethig doesnt match. nipper

The damage may already be done. I would just go right into it with new clutches and solenoid and do it once. nipper

Define "lube everything" Can be a rubbing rock shield. you may have picked up a peeble. Pads may have gotten a hard spot. nipper

Ok this being a 1991 (reread the lead post) I have no problem with you getting one from a commercial source. The issue is the 1995 on up legacies. Some stores sell you an imprezza alt as a legacy one, as they are way more exp and cant keep up with the load (been there personally). I cant see paying 200 bucks or more for an alt that on a car that "mature". Just dont get the 59.00 special. nipper

Tis ok, its always good to bring things up that havent been discussed in a while. It lets the newbes know about them. nipper

Its like anything else that starts seizing failing. Sometimes it works some times it doesnt, untill it wont anymore. Could be as simple as just needing the slide pins cleaned and lubricated. nipper

Its possible your crank position sensor is on its way out. This is one of those hard things to diagnose. Blu does this when the temp is between 35-42 degrees, and ONLY at those times. at 245.000 miles he is allowed a quirk. nipper

You can always bleed them if you wish, but a seized caliper will do what your saying, and give you a goofy brake pedal. It also will cause the ABS to over-react since it is trying to balance out the braking forces. nipper

Yes they have been discussed here before. If you do a search you will find some threads on them nipper

You have a seized caliper. Take it back. Show your mechanic the issue. Everyone is human and allowed to make mistakes, as long as they fix them. nipper

Since 50% of the work is going to be getting the tie rod end off the steering knuckle, I would replace the tie rod end. It is hard to tell if they are worn out or seized sometimes, since a new one can be very very stiff. If it is at all loose replace it. At leats you have a new one to compare it to. As an WHY get yourself a tie rod end boot too, just in case. I tore mine getting my tie rod end off. Luckily I had a universal boot around. nipper

Before you do that, check to see if there are any screws on the outside of the car at the handle. It may be as simple as unscrewing the handle from the car, allowing the linkage to reset, so you can make sure the hatch is secured. Then you repair or replace the handle. nipper

You dont want to rebuild the Alt yourself (as easy as it is to do). Last time i looked the price of the voltage regulator alone was almost double a rebuilt alt. Then the diode trio has to be replaced, the brushes etc. It is not hard to do, but it gets real expensive really fast. nipper

i use www.1stsubaru.com alot. there is also https://www.subarugenuineparts.com

Having the driveline up in the air is going to confuse you to hear the noise. For instance (im going to do simple numbers here). It takes three turns of the driveshaft to make the ring gear turn once. The power from the ring gear goes into a mechanical splitter, that avgs the driveshaft rotation between the speed of the left wheel and the right wheel (this is how you can make turns). If one wheel is turning 0 times and the outer is turning six times, the avg is three (hence the driveshaft speed). Thats why i was asking for the pattern of the noise. This is assuming is is a hollow sounding knock of some kind. If it is a scrape kind of noise it may be something in the brakes. Inspect the rear CV's too (though they tend to last forever). You may also wish to drian the rear diff fluid and have it drain through a cheese cloth to see what comes out of it. Chrysler rear diffs used to thunk as they got older, when you went from forward to reverse. This was just play developing in the diff, and the cars went thier entire lives like this.

That has been GM's model for quite some time. The bean counters starve the cars, then by the time the model is mature enough for them to sneak everything the beans counters took out back in, they have to stop the model. nipper