nipper

Limited slip diifs on any car have the same requirement (wheel to wheel on the same axle), and all AWD cars have the same need, and some of them are actually pickier. I am not sure how the 3rd generation of each system (or 6th in some cases) deal with a differnt size tire. Some may disable the AWD, some may just cook. read your owners manauls carefully. The checkbook you save will be your own. nipper

I am going to be away till tuesday, but i figured i would let this one sit and simmer for a while Blu 1997 OBW 245,000 miles, 45,000 on rebuilt engine. One frt driveshaft replaced aabout 40,000 miles ago one rebuilt 30,000 miles ago. Recent work, two new front ball joints (dealer installed) right fron inner tie rod (last week). Left front will be replaced because, well its old when i come back. Wheels are in balance and have been rotated. After the last wheeling trip Blu devloped this odd vibration. I though it was mud in the wheels. It never went away. We found a torn inner tie rod boot, and replaced the boot and the end 1 week ago. When the car was at the dealer 2 weeks ago, aside from bad ball joints they found nothing at all wrong in the front end. Since the car was goofy in a crosswind I had them replace the ball joints. I figured if there was money to be made the dealer would find it. He also said the front axles are fine. Vibration is still there: Vibration comes and goes. It feels like it is origniating in the front end of the car (mid point forward). At times you can go all the way to 80 and smooth as silk. Below 40 it doesnt exist. It builds like a sine wave, At the peak you can feel it in the brake pedal, steering wheel, and the car lightly shakes. I noticed something yesterday, the AHA moment. Going around a curve at 60 mph it started then held untill another curve, then built up. At another curve it dropped off. Have I ever told anyone I hate the way sooby front CV joints are mounted . Something was out of balance or out of synch. Only one thing can get out of synch really, wheels or the driveshaft. Since the tires were rotataed and the vibraiton never changed i ruled them out. It finally stopped raining today. I got the car up on ramps. As far as I can tell the rear universal joint is good (but there is too much slop in the rear diff, but I will live with that) Can someone with a high mileage sooby tell me how many degrees of freeplay they have, so I know whether to ignore it or not (most likely will ignore it). It is devloping that 70's mopar thunk . Carrier bearing and universal seems ok. Front Universal is hard to tell but there is some side to side in X but not Y. It is super super minor but it is enough for me to think thats the reason for the vibration. There is no comparable play anywhere else in the driveshaft. My guess is that when it gets into 3rd or 4th harmonics when the driveshaft roates at a different speed from the frt driveshaft. The car shakes untill it rotates at a different speed (a curve) and then gets back in synch. If I get a straight stretch after things vibrate, I have a tough drive untill it gets back to where it is happy. this is the only thing I can think of. The last time I had a bad uni was in a 87 GL, and that one almost fell out of the car it was so bad. This one is just very subtle on physical inspection. It almost seems like there is play in the tailshaft itself, thats how subtle it is. So Blu is going to sit out this road trip, well he is going to Hershey PA then from there we will take my partners CRV (ick) to chicago. I think I have it pinned down, but my self confidence is shot lately, as life has been getting really hard with really no real moral supports or confidants around. Everything just seems so bleak, but thats not something i want to burden anyone with. So is my logic valid? Thanks.

Monitor it. It could be just dripped oil, and it may take time for it to burn off, especially if its on the heatshields and not the exhaust itself. Did you do this yourself? nipper

Does raise a good point, is this AWD or FWD. nipper

When my 97 does it i know its time to do a fill and drain in the tranny . Soobys are known for hard 1-2 shifts, it can be startling at times. But a hard shift is always vetter then a long slipping shift. Change the fluid and you should be fine.

If in the future you develop a miss or throw a misfire code, this will need to be addressed. You can let it go till then. The oil damages the insulation in the spark plug wires and may cause a miss on damp mornings. You would need to get the spark plug bucket gromits from Subaru, as aftermarket is not up to spec. BTW change your PCV valve, it may help reduce what little leakage there is. nipper

A rebuilt engine is essentially a new engine. nipper

Look up "torque bind" that will explain why. Temp spare is just that, supposed to be only temp (very limited mileage). Once you get a real tire on there we can address any issues. Make sure the tire is 1/4 circumfrence of the other tires, or get it shaved down to match. nipper

I disagree. I have yet to see a cat go bad on waiting out sparkplugs. Now if you continue to drive on a missing plug, then you can have issues (and that can happen at any time to anyone). And thats not only my personal opinion but professional opinion. SUbaru for some reason likes short plug cycles, where shall we say, more inferior engines of other mfgs tend to push the 100K limit. nipper

There are cars out there that are even tougher to change plugs on. SUbarus are just "difficult" but not to bad with the right amount of swearing, and human sacrifice to the mechanical Gods. nipper

Wellw e arent sure about the moose yet, i bet he hurt like hell the next day.

OMG you hit Moosens? No wonder he's not on line

I would suggest untill you have a running issue or 100,000 miles whichever comes first (no cel no ping). Change the fuel filter, air filter and PCV valve regularly and you can get more then 30K out of the plugs. When you do change the plugs if you decide to go with the upper end, change the wires at the same time. nipper

Ok ignore me. Why reinvent the wheel? What are you planning to carry on the roof. there is a limitation as to how much you can put on the roof, and where you need to put the supports. nipper

Yes handturning tells you nothing. nipper

Are you sure the rear defrost is not getting power? Cruise check the break pedal and/or clutch switch. They are the most common reasons. nipper

Have you started a big breaker bar and the starter? (just disable the ignition). nipper

please share details.... nipper

Have you replaced the Radiator cap? Did you fill the cooling system with the car running? Did you wait for the T-stat to open and add more fluid? nipper

It does a third too. It will tell you if you have a leak, as it wont pull down a proper vacume. nipper

And safer. nipper

Not with modern brake pads. Just go and drive, and realize the first few stops may be dicey till the pads seat themselves and the calipers adjust. Usually the first stop sets everything up. nipper

Sounds like the AC compressor is failing. What was the warrenty on this item? Subaru AC compressors dont go bad usually, so I would recomend a used one. ALso you may need a new reciever drier. These have a filter in them that catch all the tiny parts if the compressor ever implodes. I personally would not take a chance on using the same one on a 3rd compressor. nipper

That is why the rear seperator plate works. Its the Subaru Auto Anti-rust system. nipper

I forgot about the overcharge scenario, as its been a long time since I have seen someone do that. nipper