nipper

Till it fails (which ttechnically it has already failed). Also you can be destroying the hub, as i have done that many times, and that quickly ups the repair bill. Just fix the thing before you need a bearing, hub, and a tow truck. nipper

You have a bulb that may be internally shorted. It looks fine but take a meter to it or inspect it and youll see a filamint is shorted. nipper

You dont want to dump heat, you want consistant temps for best running. I would stay with the factory spec radiator, they do a really good job. nipper

O rings leak, they aint exaclty the highest tolerance part there is in a car. Can happen to any car any age, and sometimes right in the lot before its sold. nipper

It already is giving you a warning sign, its noisey. Its sort of like asking if your chest pains are a warining sign of a heart attack. By the time your asking it may be too late. replace it now before the driving season starts, otherwise Mr Murphy will tap on your shoulder, usually after you get the car packed for a trip, the wife/kids are driving, or you really need to go someplace in it. Its noisey, it has failed. nipper

Check your tire pressures. nipper

Before we start doing expensive things ....... go out and spend 20.00 on a vacume gauge and tell us what it reads and what it is doing. nipper

Well if you have emissions inspection you need to replace it. i would prefer that if it is clogged it gets replaced. nipper

wheel bearing? nipper

replace the wires with OE. You can have either a lazy knock O2 sensor (your way due for the front one so its not wasteful money to just get one from subaru). AN over hyper knock sensor, or a clogged cat. Hit the cat with your hand when it is cold, if it rattles its dead. And yes at 200,000 miles you should still run close to new. your also coming up for a timing belt change (every 106,000 miles). nipper

By 7000 miles the rings should be seated. Subarus use harder rings then most. It may come down to a compression test wet-dry to see what is going on. A bad PCV or misrouted hoses (not thata there are that many) or a clogged hose can cause oil burning. I would let the miles pile on some more and see what happens. the supplier knows of your issues, so you would be covered if you want to add more miles and take a wait and see attitude. And your using regular dino oil? nipper

Well in most states it is illegal to have anyone ride back there, and untill dogs grow thumbs, there is no need for an inside latch release. nipper

rings smoke on acceleration. Valve guides/stem seals smoke on deceleration. nipper

No start with a tuneup. Plugs OE wires fuel filter PCV valve and air filter. Unless you want to throw money away on a coil when what it may be is a bad plug wire. Replace the O2 sensor too (OE front) as that would give us a good baseline nipper

Er um i think you may have just poked fun at 1/2 of the members on the older sooby board

yes. nipper

Just check the codes first and post them here. And either way when was the last time it had a tuneup and a timing belt change? nipper

Bad door pin. Low battery voltage. Dirty grounds. A hairy motion detector. nipper

Lets define what hard breaking is. The self adjusters are basically a ratcheting mechanisim. There is a primaryt and secondary (leading or trailing ) shoe. BY backing up your causing the trailing shoe to become the leader, and due to the way the self adjuster cable is routed, this works the self adjuster. You dont have to break all that hard to get them to work. They will even adjust when driving normally. I suspect that your break hardware (springs) are tired and need replacing. Any issues with self adjusters can usually be traced to tired springs. nipper

Remove the accessory drive belts start the car and if the noise is still there Next remove the timing belt covers. Use the spray lubricant of your choice (or even water). The noise will change for a very short period of time and then you will know. nipper

No the wire trick is easier. Remove the drive belts asnd see if it is sitll there. 276,000 on a 2.2L shold be ok, but i thik this has a 60K timing belt interval . That would mean your coming up on its third timing belt, and i bet the tensioners and idlers have never been changed.

mileage? STart by removing the accessory drive belts. When was the last time the timing belt was changed and how many miles. Rod bearing, unplug plug wires one at a time, if its a rod it will change pitch. nipper

VC shows up on turns for the most part, or a thud in the drive line (but not a rythemic thud). Without the binding on the turns showing up, your VC is fine. nipper

Yup. Most the time a compression test will show really wierd numbers if the teeth are off. Either you will have very high numbers, very low numbers or one head high one low. It really is a good way to tell if the belt is off, as usually the two banks dont match if they are. nipper

im going wwith a wheel bearing. wheel bearings will do that untill they get really bad and the only thing holding the wheel hub on is the axle nut. AHA! Have you got a stethascope around or a wooden dowel. use that to listen to the bearing via the knuckle. nipper