nipper

This is a CV joint, as ball joints or tie rod ends will cause wandering or groaning noises.

Transmissions, the #1 car repair ripoff "we cant tell till we take it apart", #2 is bad cats (but usually due to lazy techs). It depends upon how far they tore it down. My guess is yes as i doubt they took gears off the shafts to rebuild the synchros. My question is how would you know you got all the parts?

YAY A JUSTY! Pull the cap, is it nice and dry, does the rotor spin freely (bad thing). Is the timing belt in good condition (easy to replace). Get yourself a factory manual. These are easy cars to work on.

Read this first http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2015/03/piston-slap-traversing-world-led-retrofit-bulbs/ I would really go back to light bulbs as they last about ten years, and that illumination control is not cheap (it is in a junkyard get a few of them). Is the entire dash out, or just sections of it. Does your glove box light work (its run by the illumination controller)

I'm going to try cleaning the throttle body once (and if) I feel better.

Just keep in mnd how long this cable has lasted, hen the price isnt all that bad.

That shifter takes some force to move without the leverage of the shifter cable and the shifter.

I broke a cable at 180K, but im in a rust state. Its just one of those things as the mechanisms are fairly straight forward. Do you have a friend who can shift the car while you watch the cable?

This is a fairly straight forward system. it may just be the cable is stretched and about to fail. I have had one stretch on me and really screw up the selector. Assuming the bracket is straight you may just need a new cable.

For those of us who are running older cars (much older) keep an eye on ebay from time to time for emission and fuel related parts. I got a bleed valve for the Justy dirt cheap compared to the new price (and it was OE). The Justy had a rough idle i couldn't trace (it is a 3cyl), so i lived with it. During the winter the bleed valve popped up on ebay for like 12 bucks (70 new). I figured eh can't pass it up. Come spring I swapped it out just because and the rough idle went away, even though the part was working well. It was just tired from being almost 25 years old. So if your running any older car, snag arts you dont think you need (that are new) because a new part sitting on a nice shelf someplace is in better condition then one that has been living under the hood for 25 years.

YAY love a good outcome

Im going with the connectors on this one, otherwise we have to start going back to the ECU as an issue.

I am agreeing with the accelerator pump

If you can post here, you can order from a dealership on line. No one ever said have them do the work, just get the proper parts from them.

People don't realise that dealerships can be competitive with aftermarket these days, especially with the internet.

Lots of short tri[s eh? I would start by going over the charging system with a fine tooth comb. Get a good name brand battery. Decrease tehe Maint inervals on the car and do check the parking light switch on the steering column. Thats the #1 source of a battery killer.

Thats hard to do from this distance, diagnose it from afar. First we need to get away from autozone. It may not be draining as much as keeping up with the load on some days. Someone needs to test the charging system first, properly.

Because it is a test that would normally be done, unless you have your head under the hood while the car is running (for pressure). http://www.theymightberacing.com/Components/FuelSystem.aspx This car would NOT have a returnless system. http://www.underhoodservice.com/point-of-no-return-returnless-fuel-injection-systems/

Yes thats how the AWD works, with a clutch pack in an automatic. In fact automatics usually have a few clutchpacks, and band cluthes.

Sometimes as cars get older parts in catalogs get condensed so that they may not be quite right. I would still do a pressure and flow test on the system. This is coming from someone who owns an 1989 Justy and has seen what people list as proper applications and are far from being the proper ones. Also check (My memory fails me here I may be wrong) if there is a fuel return line and that it is free and clear. Another way around vapor lock in modern (read obd anything) cars is to circulate fuel in the fuel system so it stays cool. Also waht you may think of as a vapor lock issue is more of a fuel starvation issue. Have you fiddled with the fuel lines or emission controls at all?

Next time it happens Loosen the gas cap and see if it corrects the issue. A non working cap can cause fuel starvation. Also a weak pump can cause vapor lock, not moving enough fuel around.

Have you ever checked the gas cap to make sure it works properly?

Actually it will get worse with time. A jumpstart has much more amperage then a single battery and can jump past bad contacts, for now.

Tuneup. Wires, plugs, filters, PCV valve then lets see what happens.

He did that himself by getting only two new tires instead of four. Sounds high to me, too high, but I am bad at these things.