nipper

Put in the FWD fuse and see if that cures the problem. If it cures it then yes it is ok to drive. If it doesn't I would get it fixed sooner then later. It can make for dangerous traction situations and hard to drive. You can tear up the tires and drive line.

No you can't. There are multiple sensors, controllers, doors that would need to be added, not to mention the wiring.

A little more info http://electronicdesign.com/components/sensors-measure-emerging-automotive-safety-standards Have you asked any of these for input? http://www.subaru.com/owners/resource-center/mobile-it-ease.html

Really? It happens more or less in Multi link rear suspensions. On the right road surface on the right conditions the back of the car will wander all over the road. It can be anywhere from mildly annoying to extremely exciting. Usually on rough roads or or cross winds. The back of the car starts to steer the front of the car.

You know what may work, a piece of suede to go between the seat and the cushion. Real sued is just animal hide.

Which Gasket? There may be air trapped in the cooling system. Lazy shops won't fill them correctly. What gasket was replaced? And the dirty question, did the overflow tank ever overflow.

Alignment pure and simple. You may have to pay out of pocket for this only because if the dealership alignment guy sucks, he will never get it right. They may farm it out.

Until you fix it the best work around is in bitter cold weather when you start the car pump the brakes several times until you get a good pedal then you can proceed, It wont freeze with the car running after it has melted. It is just water condensation in the check valve freezing up.

What happens to the noise if you depress the clutch? Can you feel the noise in the clutch pedal?

Manuals do all sorts of fun things when it is extreemly cold out, as you said, they don't warm up idling. Does the noise seem to match road speed or engine speed?

Now it is winter on USMB!

I'm confused.

Also replace the PCV valve too. Your new seals will thank you.

May be time to replace all the seals then.

If it happens again (which is odd on this year, usually more a 1999 issue) you can easily remove the cluster, take it apart and clean the grounds.

They are reliable, but front end parts seem to wear faster because of the heavier engine.

How long ago were the seals last done. I am betting it is the Oil Pump Seal if it has never been done.

I had that once and replaced the wiper blade (was a bit of a pain to find) but it resolved it.

I just usually drill out the rivet heads. Its not that bad a job.

Have you checked to see if the blower motor is shorted?

Do you mean the radiator is cool or the engine? Get yourself a code reader to see what the actual temp is. After that It can be a stuck thermostat, bad cap, clogged radiator.

I think the first question to ask with any new car is, do you want to keep it for 5 years or untill the doors fall off?

http://www.edmunds.com/subaru/forester/2014/consumer-reviews/review-286803830262366208/ http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-2014/177690-use-5w-30-instead-0w-20-a.html http://www.subaruxvforum.com/forum/engine-drivetrain/20153-alternative-0w-20-engine-oil.html Oil viscosity doesn't really have that much to do with using it as a non compressible medium to do work for the valve train. It is all emission and MPG driven. http://blogs.cars.com/kickingtires/2013/08/expensive-oil-changes-are-here-to-stay.html and finally https://autos.yahoo.com/news/consumer-reports-sees-oil-vanish-test-cars-140000066.html

They all are using more oil now for several reasons. They are asking more power out of small engines so they use more oil. I think we are just all spoiled as oil consumption isnt necessarily related to a mechanical issue. Oil does evaporate as it is used not only for lubricating but cooling of pistons. The feeling of the thinner oil is to help raise the MPG. Thinner oil easyier to move, faster to warm up. What the avg owner wouldnt care about (1 mpg) is big over a fleet of many engines. It is possible that a little thicker oil would solve the problem, but unless you have clouds of blue smoke coming out the exhaust, or engines dropping valves it is a non issue.

The brat yes, the wagon no. Just because something was owned by a little old man, back in 1987 he wasn't a little old man. It does have some signs of honest wear on it, but 2K too much