nipper

For giggles next time it happens have her put the car in Neutral then turn the key As Texan said show her where the starter is and tell her to wack it as hard as she can (she wont hurt it)

I was going to skip hot soak coil issues as they would be hotter in Az with the car running then sit parked in the sun. http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m0XR9ZZdUj2NmkY1NM3Dyqg.jpg and http://s214.photobucket.com/user/1320fastback/media/DSC00847.jpg.html

Heat does wierd things to cars, and in Az it can be dramatic. Subarus are known for having the solenoid contacts go bad with time, and this is about the right age. I would also check the condition of the battery and clean the battery terminals. I am assuming here there is no cranking when she turns the key?

Has anyone even checked the fuel pressure at the carb and fuel flow?

Downstream is after the Cat, hence downstream. Upstream are between the cat(s) and the engine. The Downstream sensor can be non-OE.

The issue goes away with the AC off (car has dual zone auto climate control). AC blows cold It feels like it is over compensating when the AC comes on, and under compensating when it kics out. The rpm does drop lower then it should when the AC kicks out, but it is no where as dramatic when the AC kicks in.

SHoot thats right, unless you want to get into the nitty gritty of switches. What makes you think the switch is bad?

If they look the same it should.

Surely someone has a solution as my poor Justy's seat are all popping at hte seams, and heat cracking in the back.

A vacume gauge can tell you many things. Sorry for the delay in answering just been a very rough few months. http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm It is an underused and underated diagnostic tool.

Usually none-oe Bucket Gaskets usually leak, its one of fthe few arts where OE is better. Also you will need new wires as the engine oil damages the silicon in the wires. If it has never been done replace your PCV valve too, as it takes some stress off the seals.

I havent yet really started chasing this down but it bothers me to no end. 2005 Outback Ltd 4eat, 199,000 miles (6000 ish on engine) This started after the engine was replaced by Subaru. The engine rpm has a wide swing when your sitting in D, stopped, foot on the brake and the AC is on. I would say maybe a 300-400 Rpm swing as the AC cycles on and off. Its enough of an rpm swing you can feel the car surge. I havent had time to start physically chasing it down as life has been cruel to me last few months, but warm weather is coming.

The dreaded spray bottle. At dusk with the engine running (dont touch the car with any part of your body, trust me I know) spray the coil and ignition wires with water and look for sparklies. That is the definitive test. Wires look new they can still be crap wires. NGK plugs thats good. Air filter, fuel filter, plugs, wires, PCV valve are all part of the modern tuneup. Do you have a vacume gauge about?

replace one part at a time with the exception of a tuneup or timing belt job. If the new part doesnt resolve the issue, put the old part back on. No reason to add new variables. This sounds like a simple high voltage leakage problem. technically known as Sparklies.

Crank is ignition so the engine knows exact moment of TDC of #1 piston. Getting this timing wrong can cause engine damage. Cam for fuel as thats less critical and manged differently. It also probabaly has something to do with making a robust ECU and all the coding, and signal noise from an engine. These cars HATE cheap wires. Cheap wires the silicon breaks down very quickly and you get voltage leakage. Subarus are very pickey on wires and plugs, so i bet the wrong plugs are in there too. Get yourself a Haynes manual, they are the best for your car.

Have you gone over this car with a fine tooth comb yet? Make sure the brakes are not draging, no CV boots leaking (usually near the cats)? Check the belts and all the boots. Check for ATF fluid leak at the radiator I would pull clean and gap the plugs for now if possible.

Well lets start with a full tuneup, filters, pcv valve wires etc. Is there any way to confirm what had been replaced with the timing belt? 150K is about right for a O2 sensor or two to go bad. Bt really this is not a clogged catalytic converter. It is not a bad converter either. A clogged converter would affect engine performance.

Ok lets forget everything else. Some more info please Last time the car got a tuneupe Last time the timing belt was changed

Cam timing sounds off.

What brand wires? Is there any oil on the spark plug boots? Have you checked for voltage leakage at the coil towers? Crank sensor is ignition timing, cam is fuel injection (throttle body) reference. try something simple for now, unplug and plug back in the cam sensor and see if it is as simple as a dirty connection. If it is just doing that usually cleans the contacts.

3/36K miles. I do a drain and fill every other oil change, works out the same. No such thing as changing fluids too soon.

I am going with your transmission ate something. When two gears are engaged at once your not going anywhere, all 4 wheels will lock up (or two if 2wd).

That doesnt mean a clogged cat, man oh man we are going to save you huge monies.

06 that would be highly unusual. What symptoms do you have Has anyone put a vacume gauge on the car to see if it is a clogged exhaust system? How many miles?

So he steps on the gas, sins the front wheels, the rear wheels are moving the car, and it feels like it is bogging down. Sounds like the traction control is doing its job even though the driver is wanting more power when he should be backing off somewhat to gain traction.