nipper

The key thing here is to clean the surfaces, then use JB Weld. Since there is no pressure here, just temp and the weight of the oil it should work. Just the key thing is cleaning the bond area.

A fluid change can do wonders for a Subaru Transmission. lest start there and a full tune-up.

Change the ATF fluid, and cross your fingers. When the car is "off" there is no atf fluid circulating to release or cool the clutch pack. That jerky feeling when turning sharp is TB. Check to make sure all the tires match and are equally worn. Make sure they are all properly inflated.

When was the last time you changed the fluid in the Transmission? Were you using the cruise control?

Does it do it when cold? Usually rod knock wont be there when the oil is cold as it is nice and thick. A flexplate wouldnt car about temperature. Rod knock as you know is a very sickening hollow noise and sounds the same on all engines. You can even feel rod knock by turning the engine by hand with the plugs out. If it is a flex plate you wont feel it by turning it by hand.

Depends upon how hard the hit. Since these cars are unibody odds are that the body is bent but the subframe is fine. The body tends to buckle after the wheel arches or at the wheel arches. The rear subframe is a big chunk of metal. Is there a picture of the car, and has she seen a Dr just to make sure she is ok? You will alos know pretty quickly with a steel rule or a straight edge if it is straight or not. Did she get hit square or was it offset. I dont know if this includes you or what can be done but someone is liable to bring it up http://www.arfc.org/autos/subaru/outback/rear/recalls.aspx

I live in a land where ever block that has 10 - 12 homes on it has a stop sign. This knocks down my MPG to 13-14 on short trips to the store. This is actually typical for any car or truck as MPG tests are done in lab conditions and n ot 30 40 degrees or less with cold tires and cold fluids. After a few miles once the car warms up the MPG will pick up likr an extented trip. But uou have diff cluid, wheel bearing grease, engine oil, tranny fluid PS fluid all have to warm up, including tires.

One has nothing to do with the other, unless you count dede brain cells from carbon monoxide leaking into the cabin. You have your answer. And as long as your there, do the T stat and radiator cap too. CHeck you PCV vavle your seals will thanks you.

Any CEL? It sou8nds like a bad coolant temp sensor to start with. When she starts just a puff of dark smoke come out? Did this start happening with the cold weather?

Give it several tanks of fuel to make sure the number is right. Also winter will kill gas mileage because its well winter. Make sure the car has a thermostat in it and that it is operating. Do you have a lot of stop signs or short trips?

Go back and check your posive cable that it is tight, and that the insulation is not worn away.

http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/STi_Manual/ This is for an STI but as we know Subaru doesnt really change things much even as they add features, they just build on a previous version.

From what I am reading, a possible fault here is the control module itself. This can throw both codes. I have never seen a pretensioner go bad, but have seen (well read/heard) about the control modules ocassionally going bad. Since the pretensioner works off a signal coming from the controller, I would start by replacing the controller you may luck out. Anything more then that starts talking about test harnesses

I would compare the left and right pre tensioner continuity. Is this the 96?

The SRS system is relatively straight forward in its design on the Subarus. I would actually compare the left side to the right side and see if there is a difference. It is possible the fault is not the pretensioner but the control module.

i will wait for the more zoomed out pic

Can we get a pic not as zoomed in (to the harness)

I've been looking over the FSM, and I come up with a circuit breaker for the power windows too. Its not the Air Bag system as that is pretty straight forward electrically. You say an aftermarket stereo, how long after this was installed that things start going odd? Blower motor is just the resistor block, a common thing to go bad and can be had at a junk yard. I can find a pic of it maybe if you want.

Start with the simple stuff, like the fuses

Please show the pics. Usually it is the light controller that fries. i will wait for your pics so i can do a little research in the manual.

I would suspect "I just paid 24,000 for these freaking paddles and by gum i am going to use them."

Yup just a passing comment, related to where in heck do i buy tires now?!?!?

Give Tire Rack a call, tell them the situation. It used to be before narrow sidewalls you had a 13, 14 or 15 inch ruim that took a 13 14 or 15 inch tire. But now tires or RIms of X size and tires of Y size with various sidewall widths. There are also (i may have the wrong term) minus sizes, where you get tires for the car that have wider sidewalls (different rims then stock) because a narrow sidewall is not always a good thin for a cars ride or handling, if you drive on real potholed roads.

Yes full lock forward and reverse, with very litle or no throttle given on level ground. If there is a TB issue you would never be bale to keep the wheel at full lock without a fight.

Hard to tell if it is a electrical issue from the paddles or a mechanical system issue. If you leave it in drive does it behave itself?