nipper

hehe 0-60 measured with an hour glass.

This sounds like corrosion, now the question is where. I have never seen it at the main relay, but I have seen it under the main fuse box under the hood (and if applicable the fuseable links). Can also be a rotted wire in the same area. This actually is not a unusual thing on older subarus.

Everyone forgets the PCV valves, your seals will thank you. Use Subaru spark plug bucket seals as everything aftermarket is inferior and really doesn't last. I have a 2005 with 191000 miles and I am replacing my front hubs as one just started whining (my 98 was about the same when they went bad), They are simple enough on these cars to replace. If one starts making noise I would replace both. Alternators, i have done aftermarket, Subaru rebuild, and used. I found used worked out best. I had a 97 and now an 05 Outback, and it seems the racks can start getting tired anytime around 200K (they usually leak first so no need to rush). I agree with everything everyone says, including the rebooting of the halfshafts. Normally I say just replace them, but If you can do this before they crack, you can keep using the same half shafts. Aftermarket half shafts are problematic. The only other thing that can wear out that befuddles people sometimes is the carrier bearing for the driveshaft. If you ever get a mystery vibration you can't seem to track down. thats where to look.

You just learned a lesson the hard way. When you have the front of the engine apart replace all the seals. Usually if the seals havent been replaced, the timing belt idlers havent been changed. Normally you would do cam seals (check to see if they were replaced), main seal, re-seal the oil pump, replace the water pump, idlers and the belt. You have to go over your HG list and see what was replaced and what wasnt and act accordingly. If in doubt replace it. Also replace the PCV valve, and generally a good idea to change the oil after a HG replacement if the engine ran hot. Also the car is old enough for a new OE thermostat and a radiator cap (any mfg).

No actually, it used to be under the battery.

So shift shock. There is a shifting resistor to soften the shifts, or was on older Phase 1 4eat, I wonder if this has one too. It may be blown. It wont throw a light or a code.

The only heaters I have heard are weak are the diesels in Europe, which is sort of the norm for some diesels. I have heard a one or two people complaining about the position of the floor heaters upfront, but you can't make everyone happy.

Are you talking a hard upshift?

Yes this one sort of caught me by surprise What is the idle speed. Creep in D without any application of the brake is normal. In modern cars they will build up some speed too given enough room. The lurch might be the unloading of the driveline. What happens if you drive in a tight circle (I think I already know the answer to this).

i know its not a diff as the oil isnt clean, volume doesnt change with speed, and it does vary with suspension load. If I go over a dip in the road at 60 it will change in intensity as the suspension unloads.

Any 20 year old manual shift car for that matter.

Everything you just pointed out are all maint or lack of maint items. No real red hearings there.

Since this is SOHC engine I will be doing this timing belt myself. Blu was a DOHC so I was more then happy to pay someone to do it. I am looking on ebay and do not see many complete TB Kits (with seals or is that not the norm). Any recommendations? Also anyone have luck with buying new front hubs on ebay/ The "big car" (considering his lil brother is a Justy) is coming up on 200K and I would like to get ahead on somethings (read I have the money). I have an odd whining noise in the front just starting and I suspect a wheel hub. Thanks.

If your resistor pack is working, you may want to pull it out and gently clean it. Since it is in the airstream in the HVAC box, the coils can collect dirt and cause them to overheat.

High reving on the highway, an underpowered engine, will not be impressive performance. This would make a good city car, but being a 3 speed auto will suffer on the highway as far as noise and mpg. Dependability wont be an issue as it is a pretty hardy transmission.

Make sure the rear wheel alignment is PERFECT. So perfect that you skip the dealer, ask around and find a really good alignment shop. My 05 was a handful in a cross wind. i almost gave up on it until i found an alignment shop that knew what they were doing, had a properly calibrated machine, and now it is a pleasure to drive. Yes this is something the dealer should be able to do, but even with computers alignment is still a bit of an art form.You might want to give the dealer a crack at it, but the tools are only as good as the talent operating them.

I cleaned them with soap, water, then alchol. I then used a rattle can of Bumper paint (The Justy) . Two years later they still look new.

The oil pressure relief valve is stuck. I realize this is for a newer engine but just to give you an idea

This car is designed for 10% alcohol in fuel. Now if someone put in E85, then yes that could be a problem. Ethanol has been around since the 70's so thats not an issue. BUT, and i do mean but, if someone put in E85 or loaded up on dry-gas along with regular fuel, then that could do it.

stuck pressure regulator?

A bad PS pump can cause this but lets rule out the simple stuff first.

Rear wheel bearings. Check rear diff fluid level. Rotate tires one side at a time and see if the sound moves with the tires.

Carwashes in general will ask you to remove it to protect their equipment and your car. I have to push the roof mounted one down in my Justy for that same reason.

How many miles? When was the last time the accessory drive belt was changed? Has the PS fluid ever been changed? Has anyone looked at the condition of the balljoints?

It is easy enough to pull the pump assembly out of the car, I would start there. Also you can take out a sample of fuel and let it sit in a clear glass container (covered) for an hour or two (usually I will let it stand over night). If the fuel is contaminated you will see dirt drop out, water raise to the top, and gasoline in the middle. it is normal for a fuel pump on a roo to run a few seconds when it first turns on to pressurize the system. if the car does not start it will not keep running. You can if you feel adventurous hot wire the ump (still in the tank) and take a rubber hose to the outlet to get a bigger fuel sample.