nipper

Yes we need come clarification on what was replaced. The "center differential" is usually replaced for torque bind. I can't even think of the last time someone replaced those bearings if ever. It also is a silent death. There may be a clunk, but no whine. Now, a normal diff (front or rear) will whine as it slowly dies. The volume of the whine will increase with speed. Now If the bearings are bad, it will cause the drive pinon gear to go out of alignment. In a Diff the clearances and contact patches of the gear are critical. Now this could have been a problem long before you heard it to become aware of it. Without seeing the parts in question myself, I will side with the mechanic on this one, as the last thing he wants is an angry customer to have a double labor charge to replace a diff. Here is a pic of the inside of the diff As you can see alighnment of the pinion gear is very important.

It could, but we first need to get everything else at a normal baseline before we start pointing fingers. A bad MAP will not cause a tranny to slip.

Actually over filling is bad. It can cause the fluid to get aireated. Hydraulic systems do not pump air well, It can cause slipping and other oddities.

When driving in steep hilly areas, do not use D, use D3 to atke some stress off the transmission and maybe reduce shifting if the car cant seem to make up its mind what gear to be in (not unusual for a sooby). Change the fluid. Everything else everyone has said is sound advice so I wont repeat any of it as my typing sucks.

That over-revving is the transmission slipping which is not a good thing, as that rarely gets better. Do you mean the tach or engine revs climb but the car doesnt pick up speed? When you buy a used car from someone just do everything like it has never been touched. Plugs are not too hard on this car. Filters are easy, and the pcv vale isnt too hard, thats a tuneup.

May just be times for a new cable. If you decide to lubricate it, graphite lube but VERY VERY VERY LIRRLE, otherwise you will end up wearing it and fouling the spedo head.

Yes a tranny swap isnt that hard to do if you can rebuild a motor.

What he said. Check your transmission fluid condition and level too and let su know how that is.

Now now now we don't want to start a discussion about religon, I will if this turns into the best tire thread

Actually 79.00 a tire isnt really bad. Next set of tires for the Justy I am going to have to get escort rims so I can move up to 14's. I have to put off tires for a bit as the house and flood insurance went up

I have a freind with an H6 and several H4's he says it is quite noticeable in the handling and he goes through a set of rotors a year. It isnt horrible, it just depends upon what your using it for. Also keep in mind that the weight of the engine is ahead of the wheels, so it doesnt take much to be noticable.

That was my very first subaru, and it got me hooked on them.

They are sort of hard on the front end and brake rotors. Heavier nose, but a good engine otherwise.

WHat tool did you use for the fronts. On my o5 when we did the struts we had no problems with the rears, but the fronts were a bear. We finally surrendered and took them to a shop.

I am limited by the length of my driveway, otherwise i would have another Justy

They followed you home, just dont tell her you towed them home

I tried FreeSSM and couldnt get it to work with my cable. It locked up on my laptop. I am willing to try it again if someone can recommend a cable that is known to work.

And they look very inexpensive, always a bonus

My OBD reader bit the dust. Looking at readers on Amazon so many choices. I would like Bluetooth. I have an android phone. I have a non Blue-tooth Laptop that uses a Bluetooth dongle. Operating system is Win & 32 bit. Suggestions?

I would start with a full tranny flush, as that can work wonders in a subaru transmission.

It is a fairly easy place to see it i will check after the next polar vortex breaks.

2005 Outback 2.5L Limited. I am in a tight spot. Changing the steering rack somehow I managed to piss off the drivers side A/F sensor (Pre-cat O2 sensor to us normal people). I really do not have the money for the Subaru part at this time. Are the 2005's as pickey as my 97 was, or are there more options out there. I may even have to (gasp) get a used one. Luckily my inspection isnt untill next Dec, but that blinking criuise light is driving me insane.

I have the spec sheet from the first Firestone and they just couldnt deal with it. they said they adjusted what they could, but on reflection I doubt it. No I can throw it around with ease now, but now i need to learn that rough roads should not strike terror in me anymore

I cant find my original post, so I will just put this here: Well it has been solved. Took the car (2005 Outback) to Firestone #1 they said the rear bolts were frozen and they would have use a torch, ruining the bushing etc, but "we do this all the time". I took the car home. Months later went to a friends heated garage to replace the rack and front end links. Took the car to Firestone #2, they gave it back to me aligned (!). I didnt ask what they did or how. Left rear camber -1.1 degrees, Toe 0.39 degrees Right r camber -0.3 Toe 0.35 Spec Camber 0.6--0.9 Toe -0.13-0.00 After Left rear Camber -0.9 Toe -0.06 Right r -0.2 Toe -0.11 The car is no longer terrifying. Yay.

OOps i forgot about that one, been a while since i have seen one